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Garden sheds provide a convenient storage space for gardening tools, lawnmowers and landscaping items while reducing the clutter in your garage. Sheds eventually age and can obtain a musty smell inside from water leaks. It is best to check the entire building for the areas that need repair as soon as you notice a musty smell. This will keep your repair areas smaller. A large rotted area, by contrast, means an expensive repair project.
Open the door to your garden shed and place a brick next to it to hold it open. Remove all of the contents of the shed so you can see all of the interior walls and the ceiling without items blocking your view.
Observe each item you remove from the shed for dampness or rust on the surface of metal objects. Take note of the area where these items reside in the shed for leak detection purposes.
Examine all of the exterior seams where two pieces of wood or metal are joined. Look at each screw or nail in the seams for discoloration of the building materials, which indicate a loose fastener. When nails or screws are loose, water will run down them on the outside of a shed and darken wood or leave rust marks on metal. Replace any loose fasteners with new ones.
Turn on a flashlight and observe the interior of your garden shed for discoloration from leaks. Trace the stains back to the point of origin. Water leaks are darker at the area it enters into a structure and lighten in color as the water runs into another area. Check the seams and fasteners at the darkest areas of discoloration. Coat the areas inside with a thick bead of clear silicone caulk to seal them.
Shine a flashlight on the exterior of the shed while asking a helper to go inside the shed. Repair any areas that allow light to shine into the shed. If light can shine through a crack, rain can enter through the crack.
Check around each window and door frame for leaks or loose wood. Seal the window and door frames with clear silicone caulk.
Go inside the shed and close the door. Light a butane grill lighter inside the shed and walk very slowly through the shed while observing the flame. Hold the flame near all joints and seams of the shed, including the roof. If the flame flickers or blows out, there is an air leak in that area. Repair or seal up any areas indicated by the flame test.
Now the weather is colder and wetter your wooden garden shed will be more susceptible to leaks.
Therefore, it’s vital that you take good care of your shed to try and prevent one from occurring.
Keep reading for tips and advice on how to maintain your shed to prevent leaks from happening so that you can continue to enjoy your shed throughout winter.
Make a habit to check the roof for damages.
Anything from bad weather to tree branches falling could tear the felt or damage the roof tiles. Therefore, you should check the roof of your shed on a regular basis to ensure they’re no rips in the felt or loose tiles.
If you do notice some damage then make sure to repair this as soon as possible; replace loose tiles and patch up the tears.
If you fail to repair the damages on your shed then this could result in your shed not being as watertight as it should be which causes leaks.
If you need to make repairs to your roof then we sell spare felt over on our Spares and Repairs section.
Inspect the timber for holes or cracks.
Inspect the interior and exterior of your shed very carefully, you should try to make this a regular occurrence. Some cracks or holes may be very small, so it can be easier to look for discolouration in the wood from the water, which could then lead you to the hole.
If you’ve found a hole then make sure to patch it up as soon as possible using wood filler.
Replace your wooden shed after you’ve had it for too long.
Naturally, as a shed is made from wood, it will have a life span of around five to ten years, depending on how well you maintain it.
If you’ve had your shed for a very long time and you’ve started to notice some cracks, holes or that the timber is not in a great condition anymore then this could cause leaks. We would advice to replace your shed to prevent the contents of the shed from being ruined.
Apply preserver on a regular basis.
It’s vital that you apply a thick coat of treatment to your shed when you first get it and then at least once a year thereafter. This treatment protects your shed from the weather and the elements, so it’s very important that you apply it regularly.
Sweep the underneath of your shed.
Make sure to sweep and check underneath your shed on a regular basis to prevent leaves from building up which could then potentially cause dampness and lead to a leak.
Seal the windows and ensure that they remain fully sealed.
During the assembly of your garden shed we always advise to seal your windows to make them watertight.
You can do this using various different sealants, depending on which you prefer, and many people also install beading for further reinforcement.
We strongly advise that everyone seals their shed windows and then carries out regular checks to ensure that the sealant remains watertight.
If you take care of your wooden shed and maintain it then generally it will last you a long time without any leaks.
The main things to do to prevent a leak from occurring:
- Treat your shed with preserver on a regular basis.
- Check the felt or shingles for damages and make any repairs if necessary.
- Ensure they’re no holes or damages to the timber.
- Sweep leaves from underneath the shed.
- Ensure that the windows are fully sealed and remain fully sealed.
Head over to our Help Centre for further tips and advice relating to your garden building.
I’m erecting a small used shed on a concrete slab 2m x 2m which requires waterproofing around the bottom edges before I use dynabolts to secure it to the concrete. What would you recommend I use as a water resistant barrier? I have been told that mastic is good, so what do you say about that?
Answer to: Sealing a Shed Base
by: John – Admin
The advice you received about using the mastic sealant is correct. Make sure that you use a silicone sealant for external use with concrete and metal. A typical silicon mastic will state that it will ‘cure to give a permanently elastic weatherproof seal with excellent durability and resistance to U.V light.’
Although it says this most mastic sealants do lose their grip and also become less flexible over the years. The way to avoid this becoming a problem with your shed is to make sure that the concrete base does not protrude too far beyond the wall of the shed. The typical advice here I think is that the size of the base should go an inch or two beyond the wall on each side. This gives a very small area for any water to collect.
Let me know how you get on.
Thank you for your advice, I’ll give it a go and let you know how successful I was.
Many thanks, Cobber,
Water leaking under shed
Where water leaks in under the shed
I have an older aluminum shed with one side of the shed sitting on a concrete slab.
Water seems to be leaking under the shed when it rains.
How can I waterproof that side of the shed where the aluminum meets the concrete?
What will adhere to aluminum and concrete and form a seal that will last?
Thanks for your question, as I have a bit of relevant experience here with sealing around the base of a neighboursвЂ™ shed.
Looking at the picture above, water drains down the walls of the shed and gets caught up in a small channel that runs around the base of the shed. The water then flows out of this channel either through small holes that are pre-drilled in the side of the channel or at the end.
As the water flows out of this channel and on to a flat surface or one sloping back into the shed then you will get water leaking in under the shed wall.
The solution if you are building a shed like this from new is to identify these holes and make sure that where they are located the ground/concrete slopes away from the shed in this area.
To solve this problem with an existing shed you may be able to chisel some small channels in the concrete to direct the water away from the shed. Alternatively you can use a mastic sealant as described in the question at the top of this page.
If you go down the sealant route and can’t correct this micro drainage problem the water will still collect around the edge of the shed but once it reaches a certain amount it drain over the side. If you get the seal good enough it will stop most of the water entering the shed.
The best solution is only achieved when the shed is first built. Sealing around the base afterward is a less than optimal solution.
A spill of diesel or kerosene from your oil tank can be dangerous for the water environment, human health and the environment. If there’s an oil spill outdoors at home, you should ask an expert to inspect and clean up the spill.
Reasons an oil tank might leak
An oil tank can leak due to:
- failure of the tank body
- damage to equipment on the tank such as sight gauges
- damage to or wear-and-tear of fuel feed lines
- failure of components at the boiler end of the system, such as flexible hoses
Metal tanks can rust through, often at their bases. Plastic tanks can split due to inherent defect, age or wear-and-tear. Oil spills can happen when oil is delivered.
Who is responsible
Anyone who uses, stores, fills, transports or manufactures hazardous substances, such as oils, is responsible for making sure the substance is contained and used in a way that won’t result in a release to the environment. They’re also responsible for cleaning-up any spills and deal with any consequences of the release.
Whether you own or live in a property with a domestic oil tank, you should check you have adequate home insurance to cover assessment and clean-up of a spill, and any effects of the spill on the land or ground.
What to do if there’s a spill or a leak
If you suspect an oil leak at your home, you should act quickly and contact your insurance company. Don’t put off taking action or assume the problem will go away. The quicker the leak can be dealt with, the less oil will be lost and further damage can be minimised.
Your insurance company might appoint a specialist contractor. If your insurance doesn’t have enough cover, you should find a local contractor.
You can contact the UK and Ireland Spill Association or also use the International Spill Accreditation or also use the International Spill Accreditation Scheme (ISAS) to find a local contractor .
Once you have appoint a contractor:
- if there’s a strong smell of oil in your home, ventilate the area by opening windows and doors and contact the Environmental Health Department in the local council for advice
- keep children and pets away from any spills
- avoid getting oil on your skin and clothing
- wash your hands and don’t smoke, eat or drink when or after you are in contact with the oil
- switch off your oil supply at the tank
- try to find out where the leak is coming from
- immediately, try to stop it at the source – put a bucket under dripping oil to catch it (don’t use containers that will be used to store food for humans or animals)
- prevent spilled oil from spreading and, in particular, prevent it from getting into drains and waterways – you can use absorbing material such as earth, sand, cat litter or commercial products
- if there’s an ongoing leak from the tank, try to stem the flow – you may be able to use sealant to temporarily repair a metal tank; for plastic tanks, try rubbing a bar of soft soap into the split
- try to work out how much oil has been lost; check the level on the tank and think about how much you use and when you last had a deliver
- never use detergents or a hose to wash the spill away
- store anything with oil on it, or soaked into it, in containers that don’t leak until it can be correctly and legally disposed of
- if the oil has or could enter drains or the water environment (groundwater, ponds, burns, rivers, loughs, estuaries or coastal waters) you must contact the Northern Ireland Environment Agency immediately on their water pollution hotline
- if it’s likely to affect a public water supply you must contact Northern Ireland Water on their Waterline number
- if it’s likely to affect private water supplies you must contact your local council (ask for the Environmental Health Department)
- if your water supply or pipework may have been affected, don’t drink the water
- arrange for any remaining fuel in the tank to be removed by a fuel supplier -don’t do this yourself or store oil in a building, shed or vehicle
- check with your insurer whether they or you should arrange for an engineer to repair or replace your tank or pipework
If the spill has contaminated the ground, the soil will need to be cleaned up along with any floating oil and any affected waterways.
Clean-up works will generally only be carried out by specialist environmental contractors. If your building and contents policy permits, your insurance company will appoint a specialist contractor on your behalf.
However, if you don’t have enough insurance cover, you must appoint a specialist contactor. Unless your spill is a minor spill, don’t try to clean-up the oil yourself, given the potential health risks and the specialist nature of remediation and waste disposal.
You or your contractor will need to contact NIEA for advice on the safe disposal and/or treatment of contaminated soils or waters.
Minor spills or major spills
To work out whether the spill is a minor or major one, you should check if:
- there is a strong smell of oil indoors
- the oil has spread from your land, under your house or down a drain
- there are any ponds, loughs or drains, or private water supplies in the area
It’s a minor spill if you can answer ‘no’ to all these questions and you’re sure the spill is recent, small and limited to shallow soil. It’s a major spill if you answer ‘yes’ to any of these questions or you aren’t sure the spill was recent, small and limited to shallow soil.
Clearing up minor spills
You can clear up clearly confirmed minor spills yourself though you may prefer to use a contractor. You should:
- check the soil, working out from the source of the spill to find where the oil now is
- if the oil is limited to a few buckets of soil, dig up the oily and stained soil, remove the oil and dispose of the soil correctly
- if the oil has spread to more than a few buckets of soil, follow the advice for a major spill instead
- make a note of anything you’ve done to clear up the spill and take photos
Clearing up major spills
You shouldn’t clear up major spills yourself. You should get a specialist contractor to do all the necessary investigations and do any clearing up and disposal.
Making sure it doesn’t happen again
To help avoid an oil spill happening again, you should check your oil tank.
Learn to detect sneaky leaks inside your home and on your property to prevent water damage and waste.
Our homes rely on water—as long as its safely contained in a pipe, sink, tub, or appropriate appliance, like a dishwasher. But water can fast become the enemy if it goes where it shouldn’t, potentially damaging a home’s structure or furnishings. Plumbing leaks, unfortunately, are pretty common, even in newer houses, and it’s likely that every house will suffer from at least one. What’s more, not all leaks are obvious; in fact, they can be awfully insidious, making it crucial to catch and repair a leak as soon as possible. Every homeowner should know how to find a water leak, so read on for wise advice on determining whether you’ve sprung one and how to identify its location so you can nip the plumbing problem in the bud.
Monitor the Water Bill
Monthly water bills are fairly predictable, so if you receive one that’s unusually high—and you haven’t been using excess water—you may have a leak. The Environmental Protection Agency suggests that a family of four will typically use no more than 12,000 gallons per month, except perhaps during the summer if you water a garden or lawn. Even small leaks, such as a faucet with a steady drip, can waste as much as 10,000 gallons of water per year, so keeping an eye on your water bill is a smart, proactive practice.
Watch the Water Meter
If you suspect a leak, monitoring your home’s water meter will give you a definitive answer. The meter is often located beneath a manhole-type cover near the street or (in areas where temperatures don’t dip below freezing) on the side or back of the house, near to where the water supply line enters the house. Follow these steps to monitor the meter:
- Turn off all water faucets in your home and make sure the washing machine and dishwasher are not running.
- Check the water meter and make a note of the numbers you see. Come back in an hour and check again. If the numbers have changed, there’s a leak somewhere.
- To determine if the water leak is in the house or outdoors (only for homes with meters located at the street), turn off the shut-off valve on your home’s main water supply pipe. This is either located in a basement or a utility room where the water pipe enters the home.
- Check the water meter, write down the numbers, and wait another hour. When you check again, if the numbers have not changed, the water leak is inside your home. If the numbers have changed, the leak is in the buried water line that runs to the house.
Check for Patches of Greener Grass
Everyone wants a lush lawn, but if an area in your yard is much greener (and grows faster) than the rest of the grass, it could indicate the spot where a buried water line is leaking. If the leak is profuse, you might even see some puddles on the surface of the ground.
Investigate Appliances and Fixtures
If the water meter test indicates a leak inside your home, check the cabinets under the kitchen, laundry, and bathroom sinks to make sure they’re dry. You’ll also want to look for puddles around the bases of tubs, toilets, and showers and beneath the water heater, dishwasher, and clothes washer. If you find any puddles, turn off the water supply valve to that appliance or fixture and call a plumber.
Dye Test the Toilet
If you don’t find any puddles around fixtures or appliances, check if the toilet needs to be repaired, because it’s a prime spot for interior leaking. The toilet’s flapper (a rubber stopper that prevents water from entering the bowl until you flush the toilet) can become brittle over time, allowing water to trickle from the tank into the bowl. Grab a bottle of food coloring and put a few drops in the tank of every toilet in the house. If a toilet tank is leaking, color will appear in the bowl within five minutes. If you find color in the bowl, call a plumber or, if you’re handy with DIY projects, you can probably replace the flapper yourself.
Stay Alert to Leaking Clues
If a fitting on a supply line under your sink breaks and a spray of water comes shooting out, you know immediately where the trouble is, but some leaks are a lot sneakier! At worst, water may be trickling slowly from pipe fittings within a wall and go unnoticed until it causes extensive damage. Even if the water meter test indicates that you don’t currently have a leak, one could develop at any point in the future, so it’s a good idea to keep an eye out for:
- Wall discoloration. This could indicate water leaking from behind the drywall and soaking through to the front side. Water stains on ceilings and walls are usually yellowish or brownish in color.
- Bubbling paint or bulging wallpaper. Both are signs that the wallboard is wet and the paint or wallpaper is no longer adhering tightly. In some cases, you may also notice a bulge in the wallboard, which indicates the water damage is more extensive and the wallboard will have to be replaced.
- A dripping sound. While some leaks are totally silent—for instance, if water is traveling along a wall stud—other leaks can sometimes be heard, giving you a clue as to the leak’s location.
- A musty smell. Over time, a persistent leak provides the perfect humid environment for mold to grow. In some cases, you may notice black splotches on the outside of the wall, but often, mold will grow inside the wall where you can’t see it, so a musty smell is a red flag.
All of the above are signs of a leak, but keep in mind that not all water leaks are plumbing leaks. The water could also be coming from a leak in the roof or around a window. Either way, leaks should be addressed promptly to reduce the risk of water damage.
Leak Detectors Offer Immediate Notification
Some fixtures and pipes are more prone to leaking than others. An older water heater can develop pinholes along its bottom due to corrosion inside the tank, and water pipes that lead to exterior water faucets can freeze and burst during cold winters. So you may decide to install leak detectors, such as Zircon’s Electronic Leak Detectors (available from Amazon), in these areas. A battery-operated detector will emit a shrill alarm when it detects even a small amount of water, so you’ll be able to turn off the water supply and have the leak fixed before water wreaks havoc in your home.
We provide water leak detection and insurance assistance with the minimum of upheaval…
A water leak outside or on the ground floor can exist for a long time without detection.
Water mains and supply pipes can leak freely with no surface evidence or signs of damage; they slowly erode foundations and ultimately cause enormous damage to your home and can even spread to your neighbour’s property.
You might only be aware of a leak after receiving a high water bill or letter from your local water authority informing you of a suspected water leak.
The water authority regularly monitors at night to check for water loss with simple acoustic ‘listening sticks’ or use a monitoring device on your water meter called a ‘LeakFrog’.
UK Leak Detection can find these water leaks for you, we are award winners and are confident enough to say…
“If we don’t find it, you don’t pay for it.”
We think this is pretty reasonable! We are the first and only in the industry confident enough to offer leak detection to most domestic customers on this ‘no find – no fee’ basis that other leak detection companies cannot compete with.
If applicable, we also help with presenting your insurance claim and in getting your home restored and repaired from any water leak damage or from accessing and repairing the leak.
Our leak detection is often refundable by your buildings insurance under ‘Trace & Access’ and ‘escape of water’ becoming a free leak detection service effectively.
Using non-invasive leak detection methods and the latest technologies, our qualified & experienced leak detection engineers will identify and locate your water leak.
Have a read of our technology page to see the tools and methods we will use to find your leak.
Alternatively, if you have been issued a water leak notice that you think is wrong. We can prove that no leak is present and that the leak was in fact something like a night functioning washing machine, bathroom trip or pool supply top-up. You can then provide a professional rebuttal to their insistence you have a leak.
Thermal imaging (thermography)
Initially, we would use a Thermal Imaging Camera to possibly identify pipe locations buried within the building structure, i.e. walls, concrete, cavities etc.
These cameras are non-invasive and show differences in the surface temperature, allowing us to identify where the underfloor heating leak is coming from with minimal disruption to you and your property.
Acoustic leak detection
Acoustic leak detection finds a leak using ultra-sensitive microphones, which ‘listen’ for leak sounds that are generated through the damaged pipework.
Our software can differentiate between leak generated sounds and background sound contamination.
Trace gas leak detection equipment
Trace Gas is non-toxic and does not harm any pipework or the environment and is used to detect leaks on all pipework, including underfloor heating systems.
This specialist gas is pressurised through the pipes and makes its way to the surface, where it escapes allowing us to detect your leak with our gas detector. This allows us to locate your leak to a specific area, even under concrete; we use this method on heating systems for its accuracy.
These are non-invasive techniques and do not cause any damage to your property.
Leak Noise Correlation
Correlators are powerful electronic devices to locate leaks on pressured pipes, where the rough location of the leak is unknown, and the distances are relatively high. Two sensors are placed in contact with the pipe on both sides of the suspected leak. Those sensors record and transmit the sound by radio to the processing unit. Mathematical algorithms are used to determine the exact location of certain noise profiles (such as hissing leak sound) on the pipe, by correlating the noise that reaches both sensors and measuring the difference it takes to travel on the pipe from the leak location to each sensor.
Benefits of using UK Leak Detection:
- Most carried out on a ‘no-find no-fee’ basis*
- Assistance with insurance claims
- Fully refundable as part of an insurance claim
- Immediate mitigation of further damage
- Non-destructive leak detection
- Keep costs at a minimum
- Stop high water bills
- Minimize property damage and disruption
- Provide photographic reports
We can locate water leaks internally under:
- Concrete flooring
- Wooden flooring
- Laminate flooring
- Amtico or Vinyl flooring
- Ceramic or vinyl tiled floors
- Lino flooring
- Rugs and Decorative coverings
- Carpeted floors
- Cavity Floors
We can locate water leaks externally under:
- Grass or turfed areas
- Soil and scalping
Call UK Leak Detection now on
Expert DIY advice on how to find, troubleshoot, and fix a roof leak, including how to keep the water from getting in during a roof leak emergency.
The source of most roof leaks is hard to find because it originates away from where the leak shows up. In order to find the source of a leak, follow a roofer’s advice and “think like water.”
Water typically comes in through worn, broken, or missing shingles; where nails have worked loose; or through corroded or poorly sealed roof flashing around vents, skylights, or chimneys or along the intersections of roof planes. A roof leak often travels down a rafter, showing up down-roof from where it begins. ©Don Vandervort, HomeTips
Once water passes the roofing, it flows along the sheathing, roof rafters, or topside of ceilings until it finds a place to drip down—inevitably onto your favorite piece of furniture.
Look for a roof leak during the day. Go into the attic with a bright flashlight; step only on secure framing members and never on the insulation or topside of the ceiling below—neither of these will support you! Start above the place where the drip has occurred and work your way uproof, looking for wetness along the framing members.
If the weather has been dry for a while, look for water marks, stains, or discolorations on the wood made by moisture. Then switch off the light and try to find a hole where daylight shows through the roof. (With a wood-shingle roof, you’ll see many such places, but while the overlapped shingles let light show through they shed water.) If it’s still raining, put a bucket under the leak in an area with proper support. Let the bucket collect the drips and fix the leak when the weather clears.
HomeTips Pro Tip: For safety’s sake, don’t go onto a roof that is steeply pitched, don’t step on the plastic sheeting (particularly if it’s wet), and never go onto the roof during a thunderstorm.
Water-Testing for Roof Leaks
If you can’t find the cause of a leak from the attic or by visual inspection on the roof surface, wait for dry weather and ask a friend to help you do a water test. To do this, one person goes onto the roof with a garden hose; the other person goes inside the attic with a bucket and a strong light. Use a garden hose with nozzle control to water-test for roof leaks. KellyP42 | MorgueFile
The person in the attic watches carefully while the one on the roof floods the roof with the hose, starting at the bottom (the eaves) and slowly working uproof until water from the leak appears in the attic. Once the leak is found, push a nail up through the hole to mark its location for rooftop repair. Mark the surface of the roof with chalk, if necessary.
The exact methods for repairing the roof leak will depend upon the roofing material and the roof’s construction. Based on your roof, please refer to the following articles that offer step-by-step directions:
Roof Leak Emergency
Here is how to make an emergency cover for your leaking roof from plastic sheeting and 2 by 4s:
1 Partially unroll or unfold enough heavy (6-mil) polyethylene sheeting to cover the leaking section of roof, from eaves to peak; add about 4 feet extra, and cut it with a utility knife. Wrap one end around a 2 by 4 that is as long as the plastic’s width; staple the plastic along the 2 by 4. Sandwich the assembly with a second 2 by 4, and nail the boards together with three or four 3-inch or 3 1/4-inch common nails.
2 Place the sandwiched end of the plastic along the eaves. Stretch the sheeting from eaves to ridge, running it over the top of the ridge and down the other side a few feet.
3 Sandwich the top end of the sheeting with another pair of 2 by 4s so the wind will not carry it away. Do not nail any part of this assembly to the roof.
Fast Fix for a Roof Leak
If you know that a roof leak is being caused by a hole, sometimes you can temporarily fix it with a 12-by-12-inch piece of galvanized sheet metal flashing, available at almost any home improvement center or hardware store. Quickly fix a roof leak by slipping a sheet metal flashing up under the course above the hole. © Don Vandervort, HomeTips
Lift the damaged shingle with one hand, and push the sheet metal flashing up underneath the shingle so the sheet metal covers the hole. It may be necessary to pry up one or more roofing nails in the row above the damaged shingle so you can push the flashing all the way up under the course of shingles above the leak so water will be shed over the metal.
About Do-It-Yourself Roof Repair
Working on top of a roof can be difficult and dangerous. Unless your roof’s pitch is relatively low and you have the necessary experience, tools, and confidence to get the job done safely, you should leave this work to a professional. In this case, please see our affiliate partner, HomeAdvisor, to receive free bids from local asphalt shingle roof repair pros.
Call for free estimates from roofing pros now:
By: Alexis Lawrence
21 September, 2017
The proper sealing and insulating of your greenhouse protects the plants inside from a variety of potential hazards. During the winter months, a good seal keeps the cold air from leaking in and causing a possible freeze. Throughout the rest of the year, the seal on your greenhouse can prevent large pests from getting in and prevent the warm air circulating through the greenhouse from escaping.
Check the caulking around the foundation of any type of greenhouse. The gaps where the frame of the greenhouse and the foundation meet should be caulked upon installation. If you have a glass greenhouse, fill in any gaps or holes in the frame with caulking to seal the greenhouse.
Hold the bottom of the plastic down in curtain-style greenhouses with a heavy block of wood or piece of metal on each side. Purchase a piece of metal the same length as the side so that the metal reaches across the entire bottom, or cut a block of wood the same length as the side so that it fits across the bottom. Fold the bottom of the curtain inward so that the bottom lies on the ground, and place the metal or wood across the bottom to seal it against the ground.
- The proper sealing and insulating of your greenhouse protects the plants inside from a variety of potential hazards.
- If you have a glass greenhouse, fill in any gaps or holes in the frame with caulking to seal the greenhouse.
Install Velcro strips on the frame of curtain-style plastic greenhouses. Run the Velcro strips down the entire length of each vertical corner post in the greenhouse frame. Leave the two halves of the Velcro strips attached to each other when sticking the strips to the frame.
Peel off the backing on the exposed side of the Velcro strips, one at a time, and press the plastic curtains against the adhesive backing. Put pressure on the plastic until it sticks to the Velcro strip from the top to the bottom. To open the plastic curtains, peel the Velcro apart.
Do not seal your greenhouse airtight, even during the winter months. Leave the greenhouse vents open for air circulation. Closing off the greenhouse completely leads to mold and mildew, which can kill the plants inside. In freezing temperatures, you can close the events overnight to help prevent frost.