Calisthenics / Expert
- Chin-Up Bar
- 0 reps
- 12 reps
Average Sitewide Toes-to-Bar Reps
- 12 reps
Average Male Toes-to-Bar Reps
- 0 reps
Average Female Toes-to-Bar Reps
How to do Toes-to-Bar:
- Step 1: Grab onto the chin up bar with your hands about shoulder width apart and facing out away from your body.
- Step 2: Bring your feet back behind your body and then swing them forward and up.
- Step 3: Bring your feet all the way up to the bar and touch both feet to the bar at the same time.
- Step 4: Bring your feet back down this completes one repetition.
toes-to-bar is a calisthenics exercise that primarily targets the abs and to a lesser degree also targets the groin, hamstrings, hip flexors and lower back . more
toes-to-bar is a calisthenics exercise that primarily targets the abs and to a lesser degree also targets the groin, hamstrings, hip flexors and lower back.
The only toes-to-bar equipment that you really need is the following: chin-up bar. There are however many different toes-to-bar variations that you can try out that may require different types of toes-to-bar equipment or may even require no equipment at all.
Learning proper toes-to-bar form is easy with the step by step toes-to-bar instructions, toes-to-bar tips, and the instructional toes-to-bar technique video on this page. toes-to-bar is a exercise for those with a expert level of physical fitness and exercise experience. Watch the toes-to-bar video, learn how to do the toes-to-bar, and then be sure and browse through the toes-to-bar workouts on our workout plans page!
It’s a great idea to fit a tow bar to your car. You know whether you need one or not with a simple question. Are you looking to tow a trailer or a caravan? The tow bar gives the back of your vehicle the strength and support to handle towing an object behind it, and the electrics to support essential systems including the brake lights and indicators.
So how do you go about fitting a tow bar to your car? Is this an easy job? Well in our experience you will need to set aside roughly 4 hours of your time to complete this task and it’s a little too difficult for the amateur mechanic. So we would only recommend going ahead with this job if you have a considerable level of mechanical skill and you know your way around your toolbox.
- Get the Car Ready
In the first instance you’ll need to disconnect the electrical systems supplying power to the rear bumper. Firstly remove the cable from your battery’s negative terminal, before unplugging the cabling to the fog light on the bumper. If there are a number of wires it is a good idea to use sticky labels to mark out the purposes of the wires in the array.
- Remove the Car Bumper
Next you’ll need to take the rear bumper off the car. There should be a number of bolts that are holding this in place. When these are removed carefully feel along the bottom of the bumper, releasing any small clips that are still holding the bumper in place.
- Locate the Bolt Holes
You should now notice that there are two holes in the chassis, which are there to support the installation of a tow bar. However, it may be the case that such holes are not present on your car, in which case you should be able to use the brackets that will be supplied with the kit to hang the tow bar off the rear of your vehicle.
- Install the Tow Bar
Remove any plastic or metal edge protectors that may be blocking the installation holes. You should now be free to fit the tow bar onto the vehicle, using the bolts and bracket sets provided in the kit that comes with the bar. Check that the bolts are properly tightened and that the tow bar is held in place at the right height if the holes are non-uniform.
- Wire in the Tow Bar
Wiring in the lights on the tow bar is the final step, which can be a tricky job as it will require you to spline in the wiring via the existing cables running to your tail light. With many different configurations of lights available it is best to check your user manual to verify the colour coding on the wires. This is a very difficult job and it is sometimes possible to purchase a dedicated wiring kit specifically for your car, which can make the task a little easier.
Finally, when you are satisfied that the bar and wiring are in place, the obvious next step is to test out the tow bar with a trailer or caravan on a quiet road with little traffic. Make sure you’re safe before you take out your trailer onto a dual carriageway or motorway.
How to fit a tow bar?
There are basically 3 ways of getting a tow bar fitted to your car.
- Dealer fitted tow bars either as an option on a new vehicle or by booking your car in to have it fitted.
- Fitting by one of the many tow bar fitting companies. They can either come to you to fit the tow bar at your home or work or sometimes they will have fitting centres.
- You can purchase a tow bar and fit the tow bar and electrics yourself.
There are a number of advantages and disadvantages of each of the three methods and we will cover some of them below
Dealer fitted tow bars
If you are buying a new car or a nearly new car from a dealer and want a tow bar fitted then to get the best price it’s probably best to negotiate this when you are buying the car. Dealer fitted genuine manufacturer tow bars can be very expensive. However, there are some advantages of having a genuine manufacturer tow bar fitted. Firstly, the dealer can’t argue you have invalidated any warranty and if it’s part of the purchase of a new car it should be included in any warranty offered with the car (worth checking though). The second advantage is that it will be integrated with the electrical system often meaning that you can have a warning light on the dashboard instead of the buzzer when the indicators are used. Many vehicles are set up so that the wiring for the tow bar electrics plug in to the car’s wiring loom avoiding the need to splice into or cut any wires in the cars electrical system.
Specialist tow bar fitting company
If you need a tow bar fitted to a 2nd hand car or one that you already own then a specialist tow bar fitter can be a cost effective solution. Shop around to ensure you get the best value for money, we suggest getting at least 3 quotes as we found that prices vary widely. Ensure that the price includes the electrics required for a caravan e.g. fridge and battery charging connections etc.
The tow bar fitter is unlikely to use genuine parts from your car manufacturer as they will have their own preferred tow bar manufacturer that they use. This does not mean that they are in any way inferior tow bars and should not put you off. You may want to ensure that your car warranty is not invalidated.
Tow bars fitted to a vehicle after 1998 must be ‘type approved’ which certifies that the tow bar has been tested to European standards.
Fitting a tow bar yourself
If you are a competent DIYer and are comfortable in carrying out work on your car and familiar with car electrics then its perfectly possible to fit a tow bar to your car yourself. If you do not feel confident then get a garage or a tow bar fitter to do the work for you.
Before fitting a tow bar to your car you need to satisfy yourself that your car is capable of towing and that it’s alright to tow your caravan. The best way to find this out is to look at the manual that came with your car. You can also use our tow car weights section to get an idea. However, you must always check your manual or with the car manufacturer to make sure the information is correct. Once you are confident that your car is suitable to have a tow bar fitted and that its up to the job of towing your caravan then you can order the tow bar and purchase an electrical wiring kit and fit the tow bar.
The tow bar will come with a good set of instructions showing you how to fit the tow bar to your car, where the attachment points are and the best way to specifically fit the tow bar to your vehicle. Typically, all of the screws, bolts and other bits required to fit the tow bar will be included. However, the tools will not be included.
Typically the tools needed to fit a tow bar are as follows:
- Socket set with a good range of sockets from 10mm – 24mm
- Torque Wrench
- Spanners ranging from 10mm – 24mm, or
- An adjustable spanner
- A good set of strong and robust screwdrivers (flat ended and posidrive)
- Stanley Knife / craft knife
- Wire cutters and pliers
- 12volt electric test light or an electrical test meter
- Insulation tape and cable ties
- Electric drill and drill bits as some tow bars require holes to be drilled
- Jigsaw or hand saw as some tow bars require cut outs to be made in the bumper
The tow bar wiring kits can be bought separately as depending on the kit you purchase they may not be included. A tow bar wiring kit is the best way to do this as it will come with all the wire, the sockets, the relays and often the connections and a good set of instructions.
The instructions will tell you what is required for your vehicle and the tow bar you have purchased. You may be able to save money on the tools needed using the links above which allow you to compare tools from a number of different online companies. As a keen Diyer myself I always invest some of the money I save by doing the job myself into buying the right tools for the job. It makes for a better result and makes
Flat Towing with a Tow-Bar
A third option for towing a car is to flat tow — a method where the towed car’s four wheels are all touching the ground. Flat towing involves a tow bar, a tool that has several advantages to other types of towing. Tow bars are usually less expensive to purchase than a dolly or flatbed. They’re also lighter (and thus more energy efficient) and are easier and faster to connect and disconnect than other methods of car towing.
Flat towing, also called four wheels down towing, requires a few upfront purchases, but these are usually one-time purchases. Once you install your tow bar set-up, you’ll be good to go, especially if you tow the same car around with the same lead car during every trip.
There are different types of tow bars to consider. The three main types are self-aligning coach-mounted receivers, self-aligning towed vehicle-mounted receivers and the rigid A-frame tow bar. Of these three, the optimal set-up is a self-aligning coach-mounted-receiver tow bar. Since it’s self-aligning, the receiver can be adjusted from side to side, allowing for a less-than-perfect approach between the vehicles when hooking up the car for towing. A-frame tow bars require precise driving when coupling the tow bar to the receiver, since these tow bars don’t move. It’s also generally better to purchase a coach-mounted receiver, since they are usually the heaviest component in a tow bar set up. If it’s hooked up to the back of the coach, the front of the towed vehicle isn’t bogged down with extra weight that can wear out the power train components of a towed vehicle. What’s more, coach-mounted receivers usually fold up on the back of the coach vehicle, which is a plus when you’re driving the towed vehicle around town during a stop.
Flat towing will cause your tires to wear out evenly (an advantage over tow dollies) but more quickly (a disadvantage to flatbed towing). As with two-wheel towing, it’s a good idea to disconnect or remove the drive shafts when you’re flat towing. Because flat towing is so popular among RVers who frequently unhitch their towed cars for use during trips, some companies manufacture aftermarket drive shaft couplings that can easily connect or disconnect the drive shafts of the towed car with the pull of a lever.
Some people choose to opt out of this extra cost and instead flat tow their cars with the transmission in neutral. While this method is rough on cars (and requires you travel with your car keys in the ignition), manual transmissions work best in this situation. They produce less resistance (and thus, less friction) than an automatic transmission. If you have a car with an automatic transmission, you can still flat tow in neutral; it’s just a better idea to invest in an aftermarket component that lubricates your transmission during long trips to prevent wear and tear. Either way, when towing with a car in neutral with the drive shaft still connected, plan on your car’s engine wearing out much more quickly than if you take the time to disconnect the shafts.
Regardless of which method of towing is best for you, be sure to practice towing before hitting the open road and contact your insurance agent to make sure you’re properly covered.
For more information on towing and other related articles, visit the next page.
Going on a trip in a caravan? Want to take your boat down to the water for a day of fishing? Got a huge amount of trash that needs to go to the dump and only want to make one trip? To do these things you may need a trailer, a vehicle with enough oomph to haul the load, and a towbar.
In simple terms, the towbar is a component that is secured to a vehicle’s chassis (the structural frame of a vehicle) and, using a coupling system (often a tow ball system) securely mates to the trailer or caravan.
In the past, knowing what towbar to fit was as simple as selecting the correct vehicle and optioning the towbar to be fitted. These days there is much more thought needed to go into towbar selection. Different weight ratings, styles and the towing you are planning on doing all need to be looked at to determine the correct towbar choice.
Types of towbars
Before we mention types of towbars, it is important to look at the vehicle you’ll be using to do that work. Is it suitable for towing what you want? If you have a small hatchback and are looking to tow a caravan around Australia, it might be time to upgrade to something a bit larger! The owner’s manual of your vehicle will give you the basic guidelines of how much the vehicle is rated to tow. This is known as the Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) The weight of the vehicle, cargo inside the vehicle and trailer must not exceed the maximum GVM for that vehicle, otherwise you will be operating the vehicle illegally, as well as putting other motorists in danger.
The next thing you need to decide on is the amount of weight you will be towing – this will in turn decide which class of towbar is right for you. There are three main classes for towbars in Australia – Class 2, 3 and 4. These classes can also be known as Light or Medium Duty.
Class 2, or Light Duty, towbars are designed for small towing loads, such as 6 x 4 trailers, or fitting bike racks and other components. They often are not fitted with an easily removable towbar tongue, as it tends to be bolted on underneath the main towbar assembly. They are rated up to 1200kg. Class 3, or Medium duty, towbars are rated up to 1600kg and are more suited to towing small boats and jet skis, as well as larger box and enclosed trailers. These towbars have an easily removable towbar tongue, which uses a retaining clip and pin to secure the tongue to the main towbar assembly.
The largest towbar available is Class 4. These towbars are usually rated to the maximum towing capacity of the vehicle for which they are designed and can handle almost anything you can throw at them. This is the towbar you need if you’re towing a caravan, car trailer or large boat.
Reasons for installing a towbar
Towbars may not be aesthetically pleasing but if you are into camping, boating, or adventures in general, a towbar is essential and will make all those undertakings simple and accessible. On a more practical day-to-day note, they allow for the removal and hauling of large amounts of ‘things’ – stick a trailer to the back of your vehicle and removing household junk or garden refuse is a breeze and you could even save some money on delivery fees when you buy that new piece of furniture or household appliance.
You may even find yourself being a good Samaritan one day and able to do a good deed by towing someone’s broken down car to the nearest garage.
Who can install a towbar?
Once you’ve decided on the type of towbar you need, the next step is installation. If you’re handy with the tools, a DIY installation may be an option for you, or you can pay for installation by a professional. There are pros and cons to both options, so it’s best to work out each to see which option is best for you.
Some vehicles require the rear bumper to be cut to fit the towbar, as well as a wiring harness and programming to be carried out, which is where a professional installer will beat out a DIY installation. It will also include a warranty on parts and labour, which you wont get with a DIY install. However, professional installation costs money, so fitting the towbar yourself will come in cheaper.
Professional installers usually work out of a dedicated workshop, but many now offer mobile installation, which is a great option if you cannot make it down to a workshop to have the installation carried out.
Things to consider when installing a towbar
First and foremost, ensure that the towbar being fitted is the right one for your vehicle and your requirements. Note that your vehicle may require adjustments to suspension and transmission set-ups to deal with very heavy loads.
Remember also that just fitting a towbar does not mean you are immediately ready for a cross-country jaunt. You’ve added a heavy load to the back of your vehicle and driving safely with that attached does take some skill. Get some practice in somewhere nice and quiet before hitting the streets.
Not looking to get a towbar installed?
No worries. AutoGuru can help you with nearly anything your car needs! From basic services to major repairs, we can get you super quick, fixed price quotes from awesome, high-quality local mechanics. The best bit is that you can do it all online, from searching to booking. It’s easy!
We’re out to take the stress and hassle away from car maintenance, so let us help you find your next forever mechanic.
This guest post is courtesy of Simon Brisk from Car-Towbars.com. Thanks Simon!
Most car owners will come across a situation at some point in their live where they need to tow something whether it is a caravan or a trailer of some sort. There is a common misconception that a truck or a SUV is needed, but in fact by fitting a tow bar most vehicles can do the job perfectly well. The good news is that fitting a tow bar is fairly straight forward.
Fitting The Tow Bar To Your Vehicle
The first, and possibly one of the most important, step is to find the mounting points. This will most likely require that you detach a section of the interior boot trim. Often this involves lifting the floor covering and in some cases the side panels. It may also be necessary to remove the bumper from the vehicle, but not always so check with your car’s owner manual. In a few rare cases you may find that the tail pipe of the exhaust need to be dropped and the heat resistant shield removed.
Once the mounting points have been located the tow bar can be fastened into the holes. There are usually two holes on each side of the chassis legs. With some models you may also need to secure the tow bar to supports further down the chassis. If the bumper had to be removed to fit your tow bar then it is possible that it will need to be cut to allow refitting over the newly installed tow bars.
Is It Safe For Anyone To Fit Their Own Tow Bar?
In theory, anyone should be able to fit a tow bar without too much fuss. However, as the old saying goes: in theory practice and theory are the same, but in practice they are not. Whether or not you are able to properly fit a tow bar will depend on your own technical ability. If you are at all unconfident in your abilities then you may wish to opt for having a professional do the installation for you. Many tow bar retailers also offer fitting.
Fitting Tow Bar Electrics
If you are fitting a tow bar with electrics then it is a different story. The majority of tow bars should be supplied complete with a wiring diagram, but unless you have experience this may prove to be a little too complex for you to attempt.
It is very important that you make sure the correct type of wiring is used to be compatible with your trailer or caravan. Again, full instructions should be included with the tow bar you have purchased showing where the wires should be fitted. Some people will find these easy to follow while others will struggle. In the majority of cases it is probably safer to have a professional fit tow bar electrics to ensure that they work properly.
Fitting a standard tow bar to your vehicle is probably not even half as complicated as you might assume. Armed with your car manual, the tow bar instructions and a good selection of tools the job can usually be carried out in just a few hours. It only becomes more complicated when wiring comes into play. It is well worth asking your retailer if they can provide a tow bar fitting service. If you are lucky you might even get the service free or at a discounted rate!
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A caravan or trailer must, by law, be fitted with certain warning lights. These are wired up to a standard plug socket called a 12N socket which provides a 12 volt supply to power the indicators, stop lights, tail-lights, number-plate illumination and fog lights.
While the 12N socket is adequate for operating the obligatory lights, you may want to run power from the car for other, non-essential accessories such as reversing lights. A caravan without its own battery may also need extra power for interior lights, a refrigerator or a water pump . For this you need an extra towing socket.
The extra socket that is fitted to the car to provide the power needed for these additional items is known as a supplementary or 12S socket. It is fitted near to the original socket and, like the original one, has a seven pin connection inside. You can identify the supplementary sockets by their grey or white caps.
The standard sockets have black caps.
If you are fitting a tow bar, and you intend towing a caravan, it is worth while fitting both types of socket.
You can buy both ordinary 12N sockets and supplementary 12S ones in the form of a complete kit from an accessory shop or towing specialist. The kit should include all the items you need to fit the socket to the car such as mounting brackets, wiring, weatherseals, indicator relay , dash-mounted warning light and securing screws.
If your caravan has a built-in battery you need some way of keeping it charged up. You can, of course, plug in a mains battery charger if there is a convenient supply, but another option is to fit a special combination relay that is connected into the car’s charging circuit . This allows the car’s generator to charge the auxiliary battery.
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Posted on April 30th 2019 by Towbar2U
In this article we will discuss everything you need to know about Alko Stabilisers, so you can have full confidence when installing and using one.
What are Alko Stabilisers?
Alko Stabilisers are typically found on caravans, as they help ensure there is enough distance between the caravan and your cars bumper. The Alko Stabiliser can be classified by its larger coupling head and red handle. Due to the larger coupling head than a standard caravan, you need to make sure that you leave extra space for it to work safely.
Before using an Alko Stabiliser
Before using an Alko Stabiliser, you must ensure the towball is completely free of any dirt, grease and oil. It should be easy to clean with any methylated spirit or something equivalent with a wipe – however it is important to keep in mind that this must be done every time you change the vehicle you’re towing.
Why use an Alko Stabiliser?
The Alko Stabiliser’s simplicity and lack of need for adjustment when in use has made this a popular alternative to blade stabilisers. When towing a caravan, you have to give yourself more space when driving and take extra care when accelerating and braking. Additionally, if a proper stabiliser isn’t installed, this can result in ‘snaking’. Snaking is when the caravan begins to move from side to side, away from the car. This can cause damage to the towbar and other vehicles – possibly resulting in an overturned vehicle. Alko Stabilisers will help with stabilising your caravan so you have a reduced risk of these problems occuring.
What Towbar should I use with an Alko Stabiliser?
If you’re looking for a fixed towbar to tow a caravan with an Alko Stabiliser, we highly recommend buying a swan neck towbar, as they are more compatible with the Alko Stabiliser than the flange ball towbar. Fixed swan neck towbars or a detachable one are designed with clearance in mind, making them perfect for caravan towing. The swan neck is also less likely to trigger parking sensors on the car, making it easier to reverse into difficult spots. Furthermore, the hitch is bigger than a standard hitch so can’t be used with a standard fixed flange towbar, the towbar should always be extended.
Here at Towbar 2U, we are dedicated to ensuring all our customers have a safe and secure towbar fitted, whilst delivering our services with exceptional customer care. We are happy to advise you and help you choose the best towbar for your needs, and how to maintain it. For more information on any of our services, please contact a member of our friendly team today on 0800 998 1969 or fill in our handy contact form!