How to hang shelves without studs

This article was co-authored by Ryaan Tuttle. Ryaan Tuttle is a Home Improvement Specialist and the CEO of Best Handyman Boston. With over 15 years of experience, Ryaan specializes in home improvement and property maintenance by leveraging technology and craftsmanship. Ryaan holds his Construction Supervisor and Home Improvement Contractor Licenses. Unlike most handyman contractors, Best Handyman Boston is licensed and insured. Boston Magazine and have named Best Handyman Boston the Best Handyman in Boston.

There are 10 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page.

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Wall studs, the wood support beams inside a wall, are great places to anchor anything you wish to hang up. However, sometimes these studs don’t line up with where you want to hang a shelf. Fortunately, there are several different options you can use to support a shelf. The most common one is a drywall anchor, which is like a plastic screw that plugs into drywall. [1] X Expert Source

Ryaan Tuttle
Home Improvement Specialist Expert Interview. 7 April 2021. If you’re working with plaster or need something that bears more weight, try using a molly bolt. For very heavy shelves, pick toggle bolts. After preparing the wall and drilling pilot holes, secure mounting brackets to the anchor of your choice for firm, stable shelving.

2011-Feb-9 1:39 pm

Metal Studs and TV Wall Mount

2011-Feb-9 1:48 pm

2011-Feb-9 1:59 pm

Metal stud fastener kit.

2011-Feb-9 2:05 pm

Isn’t that just a toggle bolt?

So I just should try to make sure I get at least one stud?

The thing about the walldogs is I don’t understand how the metal ones are rated 40-50lbs and the plastic ones are rated 75 lbs?

2011-Feb-9 2:16 pm

A stud finder works well finding metal studs. 4 of those bolts would hold an articulated TV mount, although I’d use six to be safe.

They have crazy ways to rate the strength of various mount hardware. Use common sense and overkill to be safe. Don’t trust the drywall strength by itself as it changes from temperature and humidity day to day, continued flexing from the mount also weakens it.

If that wall backs up to a closet you could go all the way through with some all-thread.

2011-Feb-9 2:42 pm

2011-Feb-9 3:35 pm

2011-Feb-9 4:31 pm

Find the metal studs and try to space the tv mount so that the spacing for the holes are in the center of the metal studs. Buy 1/4″ metal toggles, and a 7/8″ metal hole saw. Drill out the metal studs with the 7/8″ hole saw. This way the toggle is holding against the metal studs and not the dry wall.

Do not just mount the tv to the drywall.

2011-Feb-12 2:18 pm

Do it once, do it right, get a sheet of plywood big enough to hold the mount and span two studs. Secure it well to the studs, and attach your mount to it.

Do this. The only way to make a secure mount. I`d even span 3 studs for more support. Paint the plywood, and you`ll never know its there.. and you can use cheaper deck screws to mount the plywood to the wall. (not standard drywall screws). 2″ deck screws should work fine, and theyre twice as thick as a drywall screw

2011-Feb-12 3:42 pm

With an approx 21″ wide mount I can’t span 2 stunds, much less 3. The TV being approx 40″ wide spanning 3 studs it would stick out of the TV and it would be seen and it would be an eyesore no matter what color.

I mounted it on the one stud that could be placed behind the TV and used total 6 toggle bolts.

2011-Feb-12 6:09 pm

2011-Feb-12 7:26 pm

With an approx 21″ wide mount I can’t span 2 stunds, much less 3. The TV being approx 40″ wide spanning 3 studs it would stick out of the TV and it would be seen and it would be an eyesore no matter what color.

I mounted it on the one stud that could be placed behind the TV and used total 6 toggle bolts.

For mounting to metal studs, you would use a fine/ tight threaded self tapping drywall screw. Coarse threaded screws don’t have much bite in metal studs.
mounting to the plywood a coarse thread is recommended.

2011-Feb-13 11:36 am

For mounting to metal studs, you would use a fine/ tight threaded self tapping drywall screw. Coarse threaded screws don’t have much bite in metal studs.
mounting to the plywood a coarse thread is recommended.

Respectfully, I have to disagree with that. Engineering specifications on many structures with high wind loads calculate drywall as shear load strength. For instance, a job we recently did called for 12′ (horizontal long) ” sheets with 1 ” minimum length dry wall screws 6 inches apart on stud center in the lower garage area. Many plans have the same specs on ceiling drywall with a living area above but I’ve never noticed any ASTM specs on screws.

Standard half inch drywall is also considered in residential shear load strength calculations with no specific specifications on drywall screws.

2011-Feb-13 1:19 pm

I see the point you were getting at and felt I should bring up that drywall is indeed specified in structural or load-bearing applications with normal drywall screws.

Back on topic.. I’ve started using Lox ASTM screws on any job requiring decent strength. The drive bits don’t need excessive inward pressure to keep from thrashing the bits as most screws do.

Although I did use 4″ ” lags in the articulating TV mount with a ” pilot hole. The reason I used 4″ is that by the time you reach through the mount and ” drywall you lose the first inch.

How to hang shelves without studs

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Closet shelves are usually anchored to the wall where the mounting screws can grab wall studs. If you can’t locate studs, or if your wall doesn’t have any, you can still build closet shelves. However, screwing shelving brackets through thin drywall may eventually cause the shelf to fall because drywall can’t support the weight. Thick plaster walls or paneling might bury studs too deep, making the studs inaccessible. If your walls are masonry, you likely don’t have studs at all. You’ll need the proper materials and methods to build a stud-free closet shelf. After installing one shelf, you can design shelving to suit your needs with the same methods.

Measure left to right across the area where you want a shelf.

Choose the type of bolts needed for your wall. For example, if the wall is drywall, plaster or paneling, use molly bolts or toggle bolts. Molly bolts are bolts with a sleeve that expand behind the wall as you tighten the bolt. Toggle bolts have a butterfly-shaped, hinged toggle that opens and tightens against the backside of the wall as you tighten the bolt. If the wall is masonry, such as brick or block, use concrete screws. Bolts or screws should be small enough in diameter to fit through the screw openings in the shelf brackets, but the heads should be large enough to prevent the screws from slipping through the holes.

Determine how many brackets you need. At minimum, use one bracket about 6 inches in from each end of the shelf. If the shelf will be quite long, add one bracket at the center or several brackets spaced 2 feet apart.

Measure one long edge of a piece of 1-inch by 12-inch medium-density fiberboard or laminated shelving board to the shelf length measurement. Mark the edge of the board with a pencil.

Set a carpenter’s square on the board with the short lip of the square against the edge and the 90-degree corner of the square at the pencil mark. Trace the edge of the square across the board, making a line straight out from the pencil mark.

Cut the shelf board straight across at the line, using a circular saw.

Place a 4-foot level horizontally against the closet wall at the height where you want the shelf. Adjust one end of the level until the bubble is centered, then trace the edge of the level onto the wall. Mark where each shelf bracket will be installed.

Align the upper edge of one shelf bracket with the level pencil line. One leg of the bracket should be flat against the wall and pointing downward; the other leg of the bracket should point straight outward. Trace each of the screw holes in the bracket onto the wall, using a pencil. Repeat for each bracket.

Drill a hole through the wall at each mark. Use a power drill with a drill bit that is the same diameter as your bolts. If your walls are drywall, plaster or paneling, use a common drill bit. If the wall is masonry, use a masonry drill bit.

Set one bracket against the wall. Align the hole openings with the appropriate drilled holes in the wall.

Slip one bolt or screw through one of the screw holes in the bracket and into the hole in the wall. Tighten it with a power drill and a Phillips screwdriver bit. For molly bolts, slip the bolt and sleeve unit through the opening. For toggle bolts, squeeze the butterfly wings together and slip the bolt through the hole. Fasten the remaining bolts in each bracket.

Sand the cut ends of the board by hand with fine-grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge, if necessary.

How to hang shelves without studs

A floating shelf is a shelf attached to a wall without visible means of support. If you are interested to learn how to hang a floating shelf without studs, there are lots of ways to hang your floating shelves using different types of materials. You can use brackets that are designed for floating shelves, making them invisible to the eye. You can also build your shelf that slides on to a wooden cleat.

How to Install Floating Shelves

Before you learn how to hang a floating shelf without studs, it’s essential to check on the base of the wall where you want to create hanging shelves because the wall’s material is the supportive base for your hanging shelves. If you are going to hang a shelf in a spot with no stud, check if your wall is made of drywall or plaster. If the nail goes through, you have drywall. Below are the material and directions in installing floating shelves.

Materials and Tools:

  • Shelf – Is a flat horizontal plane.
  • Brackets – A support for a weight that is usually attached to a wall.
  • Wall anchors – Is used for hanging light to heavy objects.
  • Screws – It is a sharp-pointed metal pin used to join things together.
  • Screwdriver – Is a tool used for screwing and unscrewing screws.
  • Handheld electric drill – This is a hand supported power-driven machine tool used for drilling.
  • Tape measure – Is a flexible ruler used to measure size.
  • Level tool – It is a device used to establish a horizontal plane.


  • Measure and mark the spaces on the wall to where you want the shelf.
  • Use the level to draw a line across the wall to ensure that the shelf will be straight.
  • Use the handheld drill to drill the holes into the wall for the anchors.
  • Insert the hollow anchors into the holes.
  • Align your bracket with the anchor-filled pilot holes.
  • Using a screwdriver, attach the bracket to the wall by screwing into the anchors.
  • Then slide the shelf onto bracket.

Benefits of a Floating Shelf

One essential part of learning how to hang a floating shelf without studs is knowing the benefits of a floating shelf. Walls will look less crowded and loaded when you use floating shelves because they take up less space and leave more room to showcase the interior. The extra space around your floating shelves will make it look lighter to the eyes and create a more airy ambiance. Here are some benefits of floating shelves.

  • Cleaner look
  • Light and airy
  • Unique and beautiful
  • Less space required
  • Easy to install
  • You can install it anywhere in the house
  • And even though they are only held up by brackets, they are strong and durable.

Disadvantages of Floating Shelf

A floating shelf is a trend in this generation, aside from it can help you in saving spaces, and it is not everyone’s cup of tea. Your shelf might look much busier for other people’s perspectives. It is unattractive if you have stuff on your shelves.

When you have a floating shelf, you tend to fill up the lower part of your shelf than the upper part. It causes a lack of extra storage when you keep on doing that. Doing so, it requires more maintenance. You have to make sure that each shelf is clean and free from any pest or insect, especially when no one is using it.

Safety Measures in Installing Floating Shelf

When you are learning how to hang a floating shelf without studs, you must learn the safety measures in doing the task. In construction or dealing with installation, you need extra caution, especially when using heavy tools or machines. Also, make sure to wear proper safety protection and gear. If you are unsure of completing a task by yourself and you think that safety is compromised, it is better to contact somebody for help. Find out more about floating shelves.


Now, you already know how to hang a floating shelf without studs! Floating shelves can make your room light and airy, and it can also save space in your room or any other parts of the house.

There are also different kinds of instructions on how to do floating shelves. It depends on your preference and needs. Just make sure to follow the steps carefully with a lot of caution, especially when dealing with the machines that are needed in installing floating shelves.

How to hang shelves without studs

You know how it is, right? You want something mounted on the wall that’s heavy and going to need proper stud support,

but the stud isn’t in the exact spot you need it.

And why would it be, really… studs are basically every 16″ inside the wall so the odds will not be in your favor to have one exactly where you need it. Ah, but there is a solution… probably a couple of solutions, but here’s what I did myself for this problem…

This very charming antique coffee grinder is what started it all:

How to hang shelves without studs

I found it for sale on my favorite place to shop for local treasures for only $10… OK, so it does look a little rough and dirty and you may be thinking you’d pay someone $10 just to get rid of it… But I could see a bit of charm in it and wanted to add it to my little coffee collection in the kitchen, and you’ll see in a later post, once it’s cleaned up, it is kind of charming after all.

But alas, there wasn’t room…

I needed to move some things around on the wall.

In doing so, I decided the best thing would be to move the coffee maker up to the level of the outlet and off the antique stove. (click here to see the restoration of this antique stove… it looked pretty rough in the before)

By moving the coffee maker up off the stove, it’d free up the stovetop a bit, keeping toddler fingers from pushing the very fun looking buttons, and it would also cover up the outlet that is kind of high on the wall and an unwanted focal point!

How to hang shelves without studs

I’ve had these antique iron shelf brackets for years… like over 20 or 25 years! There’s something about the simple shape of them and that old chippy white and gray finish with bits of green showing up that I just love.

After a quick text to my carpenter to construct a shelf to sit on the brackets…

How to hang shelves without studs

I cleared everything off the wall, except the vintage dutch mill coffee grinder, that I knew, was going to stay right there. Next to it I planned to add the grinder I found. Then to the left of the growing group of grinders, and covering that outlet, I wanted to add the coffee maker sitting on a shelf that I needed to mount on the wall.

That was my plan…

If you don’t have a stud finder, HERE’S ONE. you can order. I keep mine in my toolbox.

Unfortunately, this time, there wasn’t a stud even remotely close to where I wanted to mount the brackets on the wall to support the shelf. Dang-it! What to do.

I actually had to think a bit about this… I didn’t feel that any type of hollow wall support I knew of would be strong enough to hold the heavy coffee maker and shelf.

I wasn’t willing to compromise on shelf placement… I needed the water filler part of the coffee maker accessible.

Then it dawned on me, I can do this… You see, of course, there are studs holding up the wall, they’re just not in the exact place where I needed them for the bracket placement.

So, here’s what I did:

How to hang shelves without studs

After I determined the exact height where I wanted the shelf and shelf brackets, I penciled on the wall where the mounting holes in the brackets would be on the wall.

(HERE IS a small torpedo level to order too. Again, good to have it handy in your toolbox)

I then dry-fitted one board, marking the wall for level.

How to hang shelves without studs

Then with screws long enough to go through this board, the sheetrock and firmly into the studs, I screwed the boards to the wall.

(I’ve had my Bosch cordless drill for over 10 years. I love it! and use it all the time. HERE IS one to order, and it comes with an extra battery… nice!)

I decided that it would look the best for these mounting boards to span all the way from the doorway trim on the left across to the sink cabinet on the other side. That way I found 3 studs to secure them to as well.

How to hang shelves without studs

I primed the boards with this primer.

Followed by 2 coats of wall paint.

How to hang shelves without studs

I just wanted them to blend in.

Once everything was dry, you can see below how the boards line up just where I need them for the brackets:

How to hang shelves without studs

The brackets both have to proper support they need for the weight of the shelf now, and I get the shelf mounted exactly where I wanted it!

Next, after my carpenter got the shelf done, it was time to mount that to the brackets.

How to hang shelves without studs

I didn’t want to just set the shelf on the brackets with nothing holding it to them… I was a little concerned it could too easily flip off.

So ever so carefully, I drilled a pilot hole in the pencil marked spot where the bracket has a hole. Ever so careful so that the drill bit didn’t come through the top of the shelf. (I’ve done that more times than I care to admit!) I actually learned from an old carpenter one way to control the drill from grabbing too much is to reverse the turning on the drill. Even though it’s going backwards, you can still get it to drill in a little bit.

And one last little trick up my sleeve:

How to hang shelves without studs

The screw head was just a wee bit too small for the large hole in the brackets under the shelf, so I added a fender washer.

How to hang shelves without studs

There’s room for everything and the stud location didn’t hamper my design goal for this shelf.

My tip for you to take away from this? (Besides the obvious solution to creating support with horizontal boards) is this:

Sometimes when you have a design goal, but it doesn’t seem possible to bring it about… give yourself a little time and thought. There is almost always a way to accomplish it, just maybe not the traditional way, but a way, none the less! 🙂

Did you know I now offer e-decorating? I can help you with your decorating needs via email, without having to step foot in your home. If you’re interested in more information, visit my e-decorating site: Frame and Frills. I’d love to help you with your project!

Here are more carpentry tips and ideas:

Thanks so much for stopping by! Please feel free to follow and share this blog with your friends, as well as on Facebook, Pinterest, Flipboard, Bloglovin, YouTube and now Instagram! I appreciate you reading along.

There’s never a stud when you need one. If you’re looking for a clever solution to hang a picture or other fixture to drywall, try one of these.

How to hang shelves without studs

How to hang shelves without studs

Whether fastening a framed picture, mirror, shelf, or curtain rod to a wall, it’s always best to screw or nail directly into a wall stud. Unfortunately, studs are seldom, if ever, positioned exactly where you need them, but that’s okay. In most situations you can use a hollow-wall anchor, which is designed to attach to the wall in the hollow spaces between the studs.
Hollow-wall anchors come in a wide range of sizes and styles for use on virtually any wall, including drywall, plaster, and even hollow concrete block. Here’s a detailed look at my four favorite types of anchors.

How to hang shelves without studs

Better known as molly bolts, expandable metal anchors consist of a machine screw that’s threaded into a slotted metal sleeve. When the screw is tightened, the metal sleeve expands outward and then collapses tightly against the back of the wall, securely holding the anchor in place. You can then remove and replace the screw over and over again.

There are two basic types of expandable metal anchors. Those with pointed tips can be hammered into the wall. But to install the type with flat ends, you must first drill a hole. An average-size expandable metal anchor can support up to 50 pounds in 1/2-inch drywall.

How to hang shelves without studs

Introduced in 2009, the WallClaw Anchor provides one of the fastest, easiest ways to attach to a wall. It installs in seconds, requires no drilling, and can be removed easily. And once the anchor is gone, it leaves behind a narrow slit in the wall, not a large hole, which can be quickly repaired with a little spackling compound.

To install a WallClaw, simply hammer it flush to the wall, then drive in the screw. As the screw passes through the wall, the back leg of the anchor swings up and clamps tightly to the rear of the wall, effectively locking the anchor in place.

How to hang shelves without studs

A toggle bolt is composed of a long machine screw and a toggle, which is a hexnut fitted with a pair of spring-loaded metal wings. To install a toggle bolt, first drill a hole in the wall large enough for the toggle. Next, pass the screw through the fixture you’re attaching to the wall. Thread the screw partway into the toggle, pinch the wings closed, and push the toggle through the hole in the wall. Once inside the wall, the spring-loaded wings will pop open, trapping the toggle. Align the toggle vertically, then tighten the screw until the toggle draws tight against the back of the wall.

The downside of using a traditional toggle bolt is that if you remove the screw, the toggle falls down inside the wall. Also, the hole for the toggle is much larger than the screw, so there’s a chance that the fixture you’re attaching to the wall could slide down slightly, even after tightening.

However, there is a much-improved toggle design called the Snaptoggle. It features a fixed-wing toggle (no spring) connected to two long plastic straps that have a sliding locking collar. To install a Snaptoggle, first drill a hole in the wall, then pass the toggle through the hole. Pull back on the two straps and slide the locking collar tight against the wall. Snap off the plastic straps and the toggle will be securely locked to the wall. Now you can insert and remove the screw as many times as you’d like.

A traditional toggle bolt with a 1/8-inch-diameter screw will support approximately 50 pounds in 1/2-inch drywall, and cost about $8 for 50 screws and toggles. A Snaptoggle with a 1/4-inch-diameter screw can support an impressive 265 pounds in 1/2-inch drywall; but expect to pay about $8 for 10 SnapToggles.

How to hang shelves without studs

Spiral anchors are quick and easy to install and ideal for hanging light- to medium-weight objects, such as framed photos and small paintings. Most are made of plastic, but metal spiral anchors are available.

A spiral anchor resembles a fat, very coarse-thread screw. It has a flat Phillips screw head and sharp self-drilling tip. There’s also a hollow screw hole through the center of the anchor.

Related Articles

Shelves without brackets are commonly called bracketless or floating wall shelves; they have a seamless and clean appearance, seeming to float on the wall without any means of support. Hanging floating or bracketless shelves can seem tricky, but the process is straightforward. Floating shelves do in fact use supports, but they are fastened to the wall and then hidden inside the shelf.

Tools and Materials

When installing a floating shelf Family Handyman recommends you gather together a stud finder, level, measuring tape, drill, screwdriver and pencil, as well as materials that provide hidden support for the shelves, such as ledges, dowels, pins or hidden brackets. Use screws that are at least 3 inches long to install the supports, so that you can be sure the screws reach and grip the stud behind the wall.

Preparation for No Bracket Shelves

Plan the plan the location of each shelf before you begin installing wall anchors and plugs. Make note of the measurements of your shelves and how they will be placed on the wall. Use a stud finder and mark the location of the wall studs with a pencil, then set a level on the wall use it to mark straight guidelines for each shelf. Ron Hazelton says you can also use painter’s tape to visualize how the shelf will look once placed on the wall. This allows you to move the position before drilling any holes, should you not like where the shelf sits.

Supports and Installation

Use a floating shelf kit for the simplest way to install shelving without brackets; these kits contain all the necessary hardware and instructions for hanging the shelves. Floating shelf kits typically use hidden brackets for support. The metal brackets are sunk into the wall at each stud, and the section that protrudes from the wall fits into the shelf itself. Use a kit that is labeled to support more than the weight of the items you plan to place on it.

You can also mount shelves using support pins or ledges. A support pin functions the same way as an invisible bracket in a floating shelf kit. It resembles a long rod with a flanged end, and fits into the shelf from behind. The flanged end is fastened to the wall studs. A ledge bracket is an angled piece of metal that is installed into a groove on the back of the shelf. This provides sturdy support all the way across the board, rather than at separate points. The portion of the ledge that sticks out of the shelf is secured to the wall studs.

Using Drywall Anchors

The right wall anchor is critical to proper installation of floating shelves. Wall anchors are subjected to gravity, which pulls down, and the weight of objects, which pulls outward. Each type of anchor is rated for a specific amount of weight; a good rule is to assume the anchors will hold about a quarter of their stated load. This way you can be sure your shelves won’t fall. A medium-to-heavy hollow wall anchor works well for most shelving applications. Toggle bolts are best when hanging heavier shelving materials or shelves that will hold heavier items.

I’d like to mount a TV 65″ – 60lbs above my fireplace mantle. The wall is tongue in groove type panels about 6″ wide each and probably about 1/2″ thick. I can find no signs of studs behind the wall.

Would it be safe to mount this type of TV using snap toggle type drywall anchors? The anchors are definitely rated to be able to support much more then 60lbs especially if I used four of them. The TV wall mounts do not recommend installing the mounts if you’re not installing them into studs. My concern is the anchors might hold the weight but will the wall material.

On closer examination of my wall – I have to correct my original post. I don’t believe the panels are actually tongue in groove – more likely just abutted to each other. They are actually about 8 1/4″-8 1/2″ wide & probably 1/2″ – 5//8″ thick. I also retried my stud detector and “may” have found studs running horizontally – still can’t say for sure. I’ve attached some photos of the panels with close up of joints

“Assuming” there are no studs – would the snap toggles work?

To the original question, you need to mount the TV stand to the studs, simply drilling a hole and using some type of fastner to the paneling is not sufficient.

Paneling is likely glued, stapled, toe nailed lightly to the wall and not a structural component.

You may need to remove some/all of the paneling to find the first stud then measure to locate, then confirm the additional studs.

Yeah, there might not be any studs, or at least not in a detectable pattern.
Maybe you can drill a tiny hole in the wood gaps and see if you come up with drywall dust. You could also use that tiny hole to judge the thickness of the drywall.

Some will disagree with me, but if you have drywall behind the wood, I find it perfectly safe to mount a TV using anchors only.

The strongest anchor I have used is called WingsIt. They have all stainless steel screws and inserts and are rated at 300 pounds on a wall.
You will need the special 3/4″ industrial drill bit to drill the hole, it’s called Apache I think and is sold by the same maker.
The special bit cut a very clean hole, unlike a spade bit.

Xslp, good catch. This is one of those cases that’s a good excuse buy those “X-Ray” phone app or stud finder units.

Another reason why I don’t like wall mounted televisions.

This is all academic anyway. 60lbs is not that heavy in the grand scheme of things. It’s like hanging a heavy mirror on the wall. The only potential problem comes in if the tv mount will be yanked on or extended away from the wall.

Pretty sure you could treat it like a hollow wall and mount through the wood paneling. At 60 lbs that is only 15lbs each on 4 fasteners.

At any rate, how will this thing get power? Or internet?

Bravery has nothing to do with it. Here’s a link of some independent testing of various fasteners.

It’s amazing to me that a single toggle bolt. often suggested when direct attachment to a stud cannot be used. could hold 300 lbs plus in their test before failing. So when 4 of them are used, I really doubt a 60 lb TV is a problem. (But like I said, if the weight is cantilevered or yanked on, the forces obviously increase). Their tests were on drywall alone. no paneling. I sure with the paneling the anchors would hold even better.

Nothing wrong with over building things. But in many cases it’s not necessary.

Not to beat a dead horse, but for educational purposes, here’s a video to show installation of a very strong anchor.
The inventor explains why the fastener is so strong and why it will not loosen.

Skip to about the 5 minute mark and you will see him stack 320 pounds of concrete on regular wire shelving attached to the wall using only 4 anchors.

I find this amazing and I trust these anchors when no stud is available.

I would be worried about the panels being fastened to the wall only with small brads. The TV fastened only to the boards could fall out and down taking some of the boards down with it.

Given a TV mount with a wall mounting plate perhaps 12 inches square, there should be fasteners (mounting holes provided) near the top edge of the plate. These fasteners take the majority of the stress and need to be secure enough not to pull out.

Depending on what it is screwed into, a single lag bolt at the top center of the wall mounting plate could well hold the 60 lb. TV. Because the construction of the wall and locations of studs vary, the instructions will always mention using several fastenings.

Well, they are WingIts, but I knew what you meant. I used them to install a grab bar in a tub. The bar came with them and IIRC said something about the only ASA accepted way except for blocking.

I just had to buy a bit (at something like $14 att). You could have jumped up and down on that bar I think, it wasn’t going anywhere.

Funny thing is I caught the HD vender for these and other fasteners changing out the displays just this summer. Asked him if I could have the super heavy duty display with acrylic front panel, he said sure, it’s just going in the trash. So when I got home to take it apart and clean it up, I got a bunch of single anchors of all the different systems, some were cutaway to show function, but I also got one of those Apache 3/4″ bits, which are now going for $17. hold on. looks like Crown bolt bought them out! Now the same bit is $10. Doesn’t look like as high a quality manufacture. but who knows. In fact, the HD site lists both depending on how you search. weird.

Anyway, I have no use for either one, so if somebody does need one. completely and totally free. a Xmas gift if you will. And yes, I’m pretty sure this isn’t a rule violation.