How to bend conduit

Electrical conduit is used to make routing cables around a room much easier, but bending conduit can provide its very own challenges. There are quite a few different types of electrical conduit, and also different methods of bending it. It’s important that you choose the best method to bend the conduit you are using for your electrical wiring project.

Although it is possible to cut the pipe and apply conduit connectors this would be both time consuming and costly. Bending electrical conduit will not only save you time but also money too. Bending electrical conduit around your house may appear difficult it’s actually much easier than routing metal armored cable around your home.

Bending thin walled metal electrical conduit is actually very simple and this shouldn’t be a problem for anyone to do. However it will require some specialist tools to complete properly. It’s simply not a good idea to manually bend the conduit because you won’t be able to get an accurate enough result.

1. Hand Bender

It is possible to use a hand bender to bend thin walled electrical conduit up to a maximum of a 1 inch diameter. It will not be possible to bend anything thicker than this with a hand bender because it simply isn’t strong enough. A hydraulic bender will be required instead.

Using a hand bender is a very easy solution but you must realize how much pressure you are putting on the conduit when you are bending it. Simply place the conduit into the bender until the bend point lines up with the arrow on the hand bender. Then use the handle and manually bend the conduit to force it into the right shape.

2. Hydraulic Bender

A hydraulic bender is a much more modern solution to the problem of bending conduit. This doesn’t rely on any of your own physical straight. Instead it will bend the pipe using a huge hydraulic ram. The hydraulic ram will force the conduit into a forming piece which will push the conduit into the correct angle.

New dyes are available to make the conduit a wide range of different angles and curves. This makes a hydraulic bender suitable for virtually every job. However these are very heavy pieces of machinery.

3. Bending with Your Knee

There is always the option of bending electrical conduit by pressing it over your knee. However this won’t allow you to achieve extremely accurate results. Actually the only thing that you will be able to do is judge the bends by eye. Pressing the conduit over your knee won’t be able to guarantee accurate results.

4. Flexible Conduit

If you don’t like the idea of bending electrical conduit then you can actually make this much easier and simpler if you use flexible conduit. This can be bend around into the right shapes without needing to use any form of bending or other solution. This will really simplify the process of installing electrical conduits all around your house without needing to worry about bending anything.

Learning how to bend a 90 degree bend with EMT is usually the first bend learned by an electrician. By learning how to bend a 90 first you will be better prepared when you start learning how to bend offsets, parallel offsets, and saddles.

Table of Contents

Important Definitions To Remember

TAKE UP – This first thing you need to learn before bending a 90. Take up is a amount of conduit length used to figure out where to place the marks on the conduit before the bend. Most hand benders have the take up stamped on the bender or on a sticker – usually on the bender handle. Find this first.

How to bend conduit

STUB – A stub is the length you need for the conduit to reach and is measured from the back of the bend or backside of the conduit.

LEG – The remaining length of conduit minus the stub.

How to bend conduit

5 Steps to Bend a 90 Degree Using 1/2 Inch EMT Conduit

Since the 90 is the most basic of bend you’ll learn, there’s only a few steps to make sure you’ve done it right.

  • For this example we’ll use a stub up length of 8 inches (8″). Using the table above we know the take up for 1/2 inch EMT is 5 inches.
  • Stub length (8″) minus take up (5″) equals 3″. Measure 3″ from the end of the conduit and place a mark.

How to bend conduit

#3 – Insert the conduit into the bender hook and align the arrow on the bender with the mark on the conduit.

#4 – Place one foot on the conduit and the other foot onto the bender foot (by placing your foot on the conduit you’ll prevent the conduit from slipping on the floor).

Grab the handle and using foot pressure on the bender foot and bend the conduit until it is just past being perpendicular with the floor. This is to allow for spring back. Spring back occurs when you release pressure on the bender – it’s slight, but it’s there.

#5 – Now check the bend with a level to make sure it’s plumb (perfectly vertical). If you’re conduit bend isn’t quite plumb, you can take the end of the bender handle and insert it over the stub. You’ll need to either push or pull the handle depending on which way you need the stub to bend to make it plumb.

It’s really that simple. Check out this very informative video on how to bend a 90 degree with EMT.

Reverse Method To Bend A 90 Degree With EMTHow to bend conduit

Conduit comes in 10 foot lengths and can create an awkward bending situation when the stub length is over 60 inches. The reverse method for bending a 90 is an alternative that addresses this type of situation. This method is also used in back to back 90 degree bends.

When using the reverse method the take up deduction is no longer needed. This bend forms a short leg as if it were the stub and leaves the long stub on the ground as if it were the leg.

Instead of using the arrow on the bender to line up to the mark on the conduit, you’ll be using the star.

3 Steps To Bend a 90 Degree Using the Reverse Method

  1. Measure the length of conduit where you need the 90 to be and mark.
  2. Place the bender on the conduit with the hook pointing towards to short end and align the mark with the tip of the star.
  3. Place one foot on the conduit and the other foot onto the bender foot. Grab the handle and using foot pressure on the bender foot and bend the conduit.

Check the bend with a level to make sure it’s plumb. It’s really that simple.

How To Bend Back To Back 90 Degree With EMT

A back to back bend is making a U with the conduit. To do it right, you could use both the basic and reverse method depending on the lengths of the stub you need.

When bending back to back 90’s the idea is to make the connection from one point to the other using a single stick of conduit. Since EMT conduit usually comes in 10 foot sticks (120 inches), you’re maximum distance between two points for this type of bend is 108 inches.

When making a back to back 90 it’s important to allow enough room for the handle and bender show to be clear of the the other bend. There must be enough space between bends so you don’t run into problems with the second bend.

The video below shows you the proper way to make a back to back 90. He uses 30 inches between bends which allows for plenty of clearance for the handle and bender show.

EAHQ is working on our own videos and will post them when completed. If you have something to add, please leave a comment below.

Using just a few mathematical formulas allows you to properly calculate a bend of nearly any angle. An inexpensive scientific calculator and an angle finder are the only additional tools required.

When calculating bend allowances to determine the cut length of HDPE conduit or PVC pipe, one must calculate from the center line radius (CLR) of the finished, bent pipe. This radius will vary depending on the outside diameter of the tube, the wall thickness, and the angle at which the tube is to be bent.

Elements of a Bend

How to bend conduit

It is important to understand the different elements of a bend in order to make accurate calculations.

Calculating Wall Thickness

ISO 161-1 uses the following formula to calculate the wall thickness of pipe:

σs = hoop stress (N/mm 2 ) | PN = normal pressure (bar) | da = external pipe diameter (mm)

s = wall thickness (mm) | S = pipe serial (-)

Calculating Standard Dimension Ratio

Using the same variables as above, the standard dimension ratio (SDR) of a pipe can be calculated thusly:

SDR = da/s

HDPE Pipe SDR Minimum Long-Term
Cold Bending Radius
9 or less 20x pipe OD
11, 13.5 25x pipe OD
15.5, 17, 21 27x pipe OD
26 34x pipe OD
32.5 42x pipe OD
41 52x pipe OD
With fitting or flange
present in bend
100x pipe OD

Calculating CLR (Center Line Radius) for Bend Angle

After you’ve selected the appropriate die for bending your pipe, based on the pipe’s outside diameter and wall thickness, you should be able to find the radius of the bend.

A simple way to determine the center line radius of a bend of a specific angle is calculate a full circle, then divide that number by 360 to find the measurement of one degree. Then, use this formula:

π(2r) or πD

For example, if your die creates a 2.2” radius, and you need to create a 35° bend, your calculations would look something like this:

to calculate one degree of bend

3.1416(2×2.2) = 13.823/360 = 0.0384

to calculate CLR of 35° bend

0.0384 x 35 = 1.344”

Offset Bend Calculation

How to bend conduit

3-Point Saddle Bend Calculation
How to bend conduit
4-Point Saddle Bend Calculation

Most bends other than 90° can be calculated using the geometry of a triangle. The black line represents an offset bend in a tube; the red triangle represents the triangular geometry this offset creates.

The lengths/sides of the triangle are labeled “a,” “b,” and “c”. The “d” represents the angle at which the pipe is bent. No matter how the tube is bent in this configuration (or how the triangle is oriented), one of the angles of the triangle will be 90°; the other angle will depend on the first angle (d), and can be calculated as (90 – d).

The relatively simple math formulas of sine, cosine, and tangent can be used to determine the angles of the triangle, and, therefore, the necessary angles of your pipe bend(s). Most scientific calculators (and even the calculators built into smart phones) have these functions.

How to bend conduit

Learning how to bend conduit isn't difficult and a little practice can produce nearly any bend needed.

A Conduit Bending Guide

Bending conduit is an integral part of an electrician's work, and this set of articles is designed to help electricians, whether a beginning apprentice or an experienced journeyman, learn how to bend conduit.

The article you are reading is intended primarily as an "index" to the other pages that actually comprise the instructions and methods of a conduit bending guide. Links are provided further down to each type of bend, one to a discussion of the math behind bending emt, and a couple of other links to tools that might interest the professional electrician. By clicking on a particular link you will be taken to the page indicated for that conduit bend – please use your "back" button to return back to this index page.

This guide is a work in progress; while offsets and saddles are discussed on the page written for the beginning apprentice future pages are intended for a more in-depth look at these bends. If you don't find what you are looking for, please leave a note and I will try to accommodate you with future pages.

How to bend conduit

Common hand bender used by electricians

General Considerations For Bending EMT Conduit

One of the biggest problems I see with electricians bending conduit is that they forget, or ignore, the constraints placed on the number of degrees permissable without a junction box. Many, many electricians will bend nothing but 90's and 30º angles, resulting in either a very difficult wire pull or unnecessary use of junction boxes. Remember, each junction box requires at the minimum a box, a cover plate, two conduit connectors and a few screws. There is likely to be wire splices used in the box, meaning more time, some wire nuts and perhaps a problem down the road troubleshooting bad makeup.

Always consider the minimum number of degrees necessary to accomplish what needs to be done. If an offset can be made with 10º bends (in a reasonable manner) instead of the typical 30º bends use the smaller bend. Going from a 30º to 10º offset will save 40º each time. Two such offsets in a conduit run (not uncommon) saves nearly a 90º bend and perhaps a junction box. If you are pulling the wire, you will appreciate the savings, and so will anyone else.

Beyond this, though, there are places where junction boxes cannot be used. Above a hard lid, for instance – using large bends can cause real trouble when you suddenly need to set a box above a bathroom ceiling or other hard lid. A little pre-planning can go a long way here. Or perhaps in the middle of a long conduit run of an exposed rack of pipe where there simply isn't room to set a box on each pipe in the rack.

Anyone learning how to bend conduit will need to learn to think in three dimensions. Conduit runs do not always travel in a straight line; they can go up or down, right or left or anything in between. Learning to conceptualize the results of possible bends is not always easy, but with practice and time, it will become almost second nature. Work on it – it will help minimize the degrees of bend needed.

A final note; please consider purchasing your own hand benders. Each bender is slightly different, with a little different feel and used just a little differently. While any bender can be used, once the skill is learned, you will do better with your own bender. In addition, your own bender can be personalized; the page on bending saddles describes how to permanently mark your own bender for the center of a 22º bend for instance. Benders are a relatively inexpensive part of the electrician's tool kit and can easily last a lifetime.

How to bend conduit

Conduit bending is an essential skill used by electricians in the construction industry when they’re installing electrical systems. The conduit is a safety feature that protects both the electrical wiring from damage as well as employees working inside the business. Bending conduit is a skill involving trigonometric functions, which allow electricians to determine what angle they need to make the different required bends.


Different benders can be used to bend conduit. The most common type is the EMT bender, which allows the electrician to bend the conduit by hand. Some electricians use a power operated bender but these can be expensive. The EMT bender has a handle, a curved track and slot that prevents the conduit from slipping out of the curved track as the conduit is being bent. A hickey bender is used on rigid conduit because, as the name suggests, this type of conduit is more difficult to bend. The rigid conduit can be bent a little at a time with the hickey bender until the desired angle is reached.

  • Different benders can be used to bend conduit.
  • The most common type is the EMT bender, which allows the electrician to bend the conduit by hand.

Bending Theory

Electricians need to calculate the angle and length of each bend. Imagine a triangle with a 90 degree angle and long hypotenuse. The vertical line is called the opposite side of the triangle and the horizontal side is called the adjacent side of the triangle. The 90 degree bend, or stub-up, is generally the first bend electricians learn to make. Most hand benders have a bending mark engraved onto their bender. The size of the conduit will determine whether a deduction must be made in the calculations. Before beginning, it is necessary to mark the conduit at the distance where the bend will begin. Then match the mark on the conduit with the engraved mark on the hand bender. Place your foot onto the hand bender and begin applying pressure onto the end of it while you use a squaring tool or level to ensure you get it to a 90 degree angle. A Cosecant is the length of the bend. A 90 degree bend angle on a half-inch diameter conduit measures approximately five inches.

  • Electricians need to calculate the angle and length of each bend.
  • The size of the conduit will determine whether a deduction must be made in the calculations.

Offset Bends

The offset bend is used when the conduit must run from one plane to another. For example, if an obstacle lies between a straight run of conduit, the electrician must get around the obstruction and then get the conduit back onto a parallel plane so it still runs in the same direction. The distance from the centre of the first bend to the centre of the second bend must be determined before making the first bend. A 30 degree angle bend measures 10 inches centre to centre between the two angles. Making a 30 degree bend in conduit will place the handle on the hand bender straight up — or 90 degrees from the floor. A 30 degree offset is the most common offset used by electricians because it is easiest to pull wire through this particular offset angle than through any other offset.

  • The offset bend is used when the conduit must run from one plane to another.
  • Making a 30 degree bend in conduit will place the handle on the hand bender straight up — or 90 degrees from the floor.

Three Bend Saddle

A three bend saddle is made to get around an obstacle and then guide the conduit back onto the originally established straight line.Working with pipes, beams or other smaller obstacles will cause an electrician to rely on this type of bend, which involves making three different bends to accomplish the goal. When completed, this type of conduit bend looks like a semicircle. The conduit is bent at 22.5 degrees for the two outside bends and at 45 degrees at the centre bend. The electrician must calculate the distance from centre to centre bend; when using these angles, the distance is generally 12 inches between outside bends. The 45 degree bend is made first after which the two 22.5 degree angles can be easily accomplished from either side.

  • A three bend saddle is made to get around an obstacle and then guide the conduit back onto the originally established straight line.
  • The 45 degree bend is made first after which the two 22.5 degree angles can be easily accomplished from either side.


The common steps in conduit bending are learnt during an electrical apprenticeship program or through experience. Step one involves the electrician cleaning burrs from the end of the conduit with a reaming tool. Step two requires him to measure the distance from the end of the conduit to the place where the bend must be made and then marking that distance. Step three has the electrician marking the middle of the bend. Step four involves verifying all measurements. Step five recommends the electrician look carefully at the markings and measurements one last time because once the bend is made, the conduit cannot be used for that particular place if the measurement is off and the angle is wrong. The final step involves the electrician marking a spot on the floor to ensure the conduit remains in the same place throughout the process and that it doesn’t slip as it’s bent.

How to bend conduit

By Phil B Follow

How to bend conduit

How to bend conduit

How to bend conduit

Electrical Metallic Tubing (EMT or conduit), especially in nominal 1/2 inch size is very handy for structural projects, as well as relatively inexpensive. I could weld pieces together where I need to turn a corner. But, the zinc coating welds poorly and makes dangerous fumes. It needs to be removed, but that is not always easy. I decided I want a conduit bender. But, I do not want to pay $30 plus for one at Lowe’s or Home Depot. I decided to use scrap steel I already have to make my own.


  • Steel tube about 3/4 inch internal diameter
  • #10 gauge sheet steel
  • 1/4 x 3/4 inch steel bar
  • Steel for a handle


  • Angle head grinder and cutting wheel
  • Grinder
  • Vise
  • Wire feed welder
  • 3 pound hammer
  • Clamps

Step 1: Select Tubing

1/2 inch EMT has an external diameter just under 3/4 inch. I selected some heavy scrap steel tubing that was just large enough to slide over the EMT.

Step 2: Slice the Tubing Lengthwise

I clamped the tubing in a vise with a piece of angle iron I used to guide the cutting wheel on my angle head grinder. I sliced the opposite side of about eight inches of tubing to cut the tubing into two halves. Only one of the halves wills be needed. (The slicing is a little tricky, especially as the cutting wheel is about to break through on the second cut.)

Step 3: Kerfs for Bending

I cut multiple kerfs across the tubing half. Kerfs were not quite 1/2 inch distant from one another. The kerfs all but cut the half of the tubing completely through.

Step 4: Bend and Tack Weld

I bent the kerfed tubing half to a radius close to five inches. I was cautious about tack welding because welds cause things to shrink and too much welding would have caused the desired radius to change. This curved half tube needs to extend over one-fourth of a full circle, or 90 degrees.

Step 5: Mark and Cut a Convex Curve

I added a steel framework to assure the radius of the tubing half will not change in use. I used masking tape to record my mark and then cut it carefully with a cutting wheel on an angle head grinder.

Step 6: Tack Weld

I held the two pieces together by hand and tack welded them together.

Step 7: Weld

I welded relatively short beads and changed the location where I was welding often to keep from distorting the curved half tube. In the photo I was closing the kerfs I made to bend the half tube.

Step 8: Handle, Etc.

I took more photos, but auto-focus gave me photos with a sharp background and a blurred main subject.

I had a heavy piece of “U” channel about four feet long. I welded it to the sheet steel to make a handle for my bender. (See the text boxes in the first photo.)

I added a hook to pull the end of the conduit into a curve during bending. The hook is made from 1/4 x 3/4 inch steel bar. I bent it with a 3 pound hammer and a vise. See the text boxes. The hook was too flat and the end of the conduit was egg-shaped after bending. (Later I used a carbon arc torch on a 230 volt stick welder to heat and shape the bend in the steel bar so it followed the contour of a solid piece of steel round bar almost the same size as the EMT. See the second photo.)

Step 9: Foot Lever

I was my father’s helper when he did electrical wiring. He had conduit benders. I made a few bends, mostly in 1/2 inch EMT, but never became expert at it. New conduit benders have added a foot lever to make bending easier. I used some 1/4 x 3/4 inch steel bar to add a foot lever to my bender, too.

My bender works quite well, especially for structural pieces to make a framework for a welding project. (After publishing this Instructable, I needed a hacksaw with a deep throat, so I made one from EMT using this bender. See the second photo.) I need to study this document from Klein Tools to learn how better to place my bends exactly where I want them. I may also need to measure and study some bends made with my bender to make some marks on the bender for precise placement and bending.

I enjoyed the challenge of making my own conduit bender. It was good to use up some scrap steel taking space in our garage, and it was good to get additional practice welding. I will get good, if only occasional use, from this conduit bender. If necessary, I could use it to bend conduit for an electrical wiring job, although that was not my purpose in making it.

The next step is an addendum telling what I know now about placing the bender for precise bends.

Step 10: Placing the Bend

See the first photo. I wanted to know how much conduit is used to make a bend. Before bending the conduit, I made marks 6, 7, 8, and 9 inches from the end of the conduit. The end of the conduit was even with the outside of the hook. See the second photo. The rear edge of the bender aligned exactly with the 9 inch mark when a 90 degree bend was completed. The second photo is an attempt to determine the stub out of the bender. A commercial bender has a standard stub out of 5 inches. My bender has a stub out of about 5 1/4 inches. I may learn a more efficient way to place the bender, but assume the vertical bend at the left side of the second photo needs to fit something 84 inches from the end of the horizontal portion of the EMT not visible in the second photo, subtract 5 1/4 inches from 84 inches. The answer is 78 3/4 inches. Measure 78 3/4 inches from the right horizontal end of the EMT. Add 9 inches to that and mark the EMT. Place the bender on the EMT and move the outer or top edge of the hook to align with the mark. Make the 90 degree bend. The distance from the EMT end off of the right side of the second photo to the left edge of the vertical bend should be 84 inches.

As an illustration, see the third graphic. The thin black rectangle is a piece of EMT tubing. When the bend is finished, it needs to replicate the pink line with the bend in it. It needs to fit between the two vertical black strokes marked as 84 inches. The left end of the red/orange line aligns with 84 inches. The red/orange line is 5 1/4 inches long. Measure to the right from the 84 inch mark a distance of 5 1/4 inches. The green line represents 9 inches. Measure to the left a distance of 9 inches as represented by the blue line. Place the outside edge of the hook on the mark where the left end of the blue line falls. Make the 90 degree bend. The completed bend should yield a piece of EMT that fits between the black strokes at 84 inches just like the pink line.

How to bend conduit Metal Bending Ltd

Circus strongmen in the 19th century bent steel with their bare hands to show off their amazing strength—but you don’t need to be dressed in a leopard-print leotard to carry out simple DIY tasks around the house. Most people can actually bend soft metals, such as copper and aluminium, with their bare hands. So next time you need to bend some piping for a project, you could rush to the hardware shop to grab a pipe bender, or you could simply give your muscles a workout.

Getting to Know Your Metals

There are some restrictions to bending metals without a machine. Naturally, humans have their limits and you’ll likely only be able to bend softer metals. Aluminium and copper are both soft enough to bend without much effort, but things will get considerably harder with alloys such as stainless steel. Another thing to keep in mind is the type of bend you’ll achieve. Softer metals will produce a ‘U’ shaped bend, while harder metals will look more like a ‘V’.

Tools for Bending

Bare hands

If you need a rough bend in your pipe and have limited resources you can simply use your bare hands. Most people can bend pipes up to an inch thick, but any more than that and you might need some tools or extra help. Before bending the pipe, it’s a good idea to wrap the ends in something to give you extra grip and protect your hands. Leather is one of the best materials for this type of work. Simply cut some into strips and wrap them around the ends of the bar—you can choose other materials, such as thick cloth, but they won’t provide the same amount of leverage. Then, firmly grip the ends and choose the most comfortable position to bend, for example an overhand grip with the bar straight out in front of you.

How to bend conduit

Blow torch

One of the most common ways to bend pipes without a machine is by using a blow torch. Extreme heat is concentrated on the area you want to bend, making it malleable. There are a number of ways to use heat to bend pipes, which we outline below. Before embarking on any technique, make sure you mark out where you want to bend. It’s also a good idea to create a template of the bend and measure your pipe against it as you go. Most people use cheap wooden material, such as MDF, to create large-scale templates.

Secure your pipe in a vice so it can’t move. Make sure there is a decent amount of space either side of the area you want to bend so that you can get a good grip when bending. With your blow torch, apply constant heat to the area you want to bend. Remember to heat the whole area and not just one side of the pipe as this will help it bend evenly. When the pipe is red hot, gently start to bend it. You can do this with your hands, but wear thick gloves as the pipe will be extremely hot. If you have difficulty getting leverage, try using a wrench. Or use another piece of pipe as a lever. If you’re still having difficulty bending the pipe, rope in someone else to help. Sometimes it makes things easier if one person heats the pipe while the other bends.

Bending Springs

Bending springs are simple tools which prevent pipes from developing a kink when bent. There are two types of springs available: internal and external. An internal spring is inserted into a pipe immediately after it has been heated. It supports the pipe as it’s bent to ensure that it doesn’t collapse. Similarly, external springs support the pipe on the outside. They surround the pipe and prevent it from spreading as it’s bent.

External springs are generally used for smaller pipes and internal springs for larger pipes. While they’re useful for producing an accurate and even bend, springs are usually restricted to certain sizes. So if you’re bending more than one size of pipe, you’ll need to buy different sized springs.

Believe it or not, sand is an invaluable material for ensuring an even bend. Block one end of the pipe with material, such as scrunched up newspaper or cloth. Then fill the pipe with sand—ensure that the sand is tightly compacted. Block the other end of the pipe and then heat the bend area. When it’s red hot, gently bend it by hand.

Bending pipe with your bare hands is a cheap and easy way to achieve quick results, but be careful not to cause yourself injury in the process. If you experience pain while bending, stop immediately. Also, make sure you take proper safety precautions when using a blow torch, such as wearing goggles and thick gloves. If you do find that your pipe is difficult to bend or you are embarking on a large-scale project, consider investing in a pipe bending machine.

Bending Methods for Bending Round and Square Pipe and Tube

1. Ram Style Bending: Ram style bending is the simplest and cheapest method of bending pipe and tube. how to bend tube and pipe how to bend tube and pipe. The pipe or tube is restrained at two eternal points and the ram advances on the central axis and deforms the pipe. The bent pipe or tube is prone to deformation on both the inside and outside curvature. The pipe or tube is often deformed into an oval shape depending on the wall thickness of the material. This type of bending is suitable for bending electrical conduit and similar light gauge product.

2. Rotary Draw Bending: This is the most commonly used style of bender for bending pipe and tube where maintaining a good finish and constant diameter is important The pipe or tube is drawn through stationary counter- bending die onto fixed radius former die. This method of bending pipe and tube is perfect for handrail, Ornamental iron work, Conduit Bending, Sand rail and kit car chassis, how to bend tube and pipe how to bend tube and pipe Stock car chassis, Drag car chassis, Roll cages, Trailer frame bending and many other types of pipe and tube bending. Ocean Machinery supplies the Ercolina Pipe and Tube Benders, which have proven to be the most popular brand of pipe and tube bender in the USA.

3. Mandrel Bending: Mandrel bending of pipe and tube is used where the bent pipe and tube are to have absolutely the least amount of deformation possible. The pipe and tube is supported internally with a flexible mandrel support that bends with the pipe or tube, and ensures that the interior how to bend tube and pipe how to bend tube and pipe is not deformed. The pipe or tube is drawn through a counter bending die onto fixed radius former die, and the hole process ensures the best possible bends. Mandrel bending of pipe and tube is used in the manufacture of exhaust pipes, custom exhaust pipes, turbocharger exhaust and intake tubing, dairy tubing and process tubing, heat exchanger tubing, and all stainless and aluminum tubing where a non deformed diameter finish is critical.

4. Ring Roll Bending: Ring roll Bending is used for bending pipe and tube to large Center Line Radius, i.e. to large circumferences. Pipe and tube ring roll benders comprise 3 rolls on separate shafts that roll the pipe through the rolls while the top roller exerts downward pressure on the top roll to deform the pipe. Ring Roll Pipe and Tube benders are available in 2 or 3 driven roll machines, with either manual adjustment or hydraulic adjustment of the top roll. Roll bending is typically used for awning manufacture, drum rolls, frames for barbecues, and other round items with a large Center Line Radius.


Call the Ocean Machinery sales team TODAY at (954) 956-3131 or Toll Free 1 (800) 286-3624 or fill out our online info request form for more information on the PIPE AND TUBE BENDING METHODS.