Installing a light fixture can be a tough job. But if you have a little bit of knowledge on how to work with electrical wire you can do it yourself. This guide is here to make you understand how easy of a job it is. We are assuming you already got the best outdoor solar spot light to use.
What is the use of porch light? It is to make sure you get enough light at your front yard during the night. As the light will be turned on during the whole night, thieves may turn away when they see you still wake.
It can also work to improve your front gate. It can work as a decoration. The potential is infinite.
Table of Contents
Gather the tools and necessary stuff.
Tools that you will need.
- Voltage tester
- 1/4-inch bit
- Drywall saw
- Long-nose pliers
- Lineman’s pliers
- Fish tape
Using the Drill machine drill a hole in the place where your workbox will be installed.
By using the 1//4″ drill bit to drill the center. It will work as your pilot hole. You should use a bent wire and check that the box is not positioned over or too near a stud.
Now that you made your pilot hole use your workbox as a template and draw around that box.
Remember to centralize the workbox.
Once you are drawn to the outside of the workbox, use your saw to cut around that template.
Now is the time to install the workbox. We are assuming you are installing it inside a wooden frame and cut according to the template. Once you have a big enough hole inside the wooden frame then proceed to place it. You can also use a workbox outside of the frame. That way they may look a little ugly but will save your time from cutting a giant hole.
Place your workbox inside the giant hole that you created. And proceed to screw it in. There may be more than 1 screw to work with. Remember to screw it tightly and use all the screws.
Before you wire the switches, use the fish tape to pull out switch cable. Pull it out as far as you can. You can store the extra wire inside the box don’t worry about that. Strip 8 inches of sheathing and clamp the box. Then proceed to install the box.
If you have two lights follow the same procedure on both sides.
Now time to mount the mounting strap. Strip the individual wires. Remove about 3/4 inches of insulation. Check the light fixture box, it should have the mounting strap. If it doesn’t you need to buy one. Attach the mounting strap in such a way that mounting bolt holds the fixture.
Now we come to the risky part. Please make sure that the power switch is turned off.
Because now we will be doing the wiring part. After you turned off the power switch use the voltage tester to check if there is any electricity in the wire. You can support the fixture with a wire coat hanger. Connect the ground wire first. Splice black wire with black and white wire with white.
Show your folding skills and fold the wires inside the box. You can use a zip tie to tidy it up.
Install the fixture. There should be mounting bolts on the mounting plate. Use those to install the fixture. After you installed it screw it in tight. Once done you can now caulk around the base and install the switch.
After you have done this install the bulb go back inside and turn on the power switch. Come back outside and turn on the fixture switch. See if the bulb lights up. If it does congratulations you have done it.
If it doesn’t go back inside turn off the power switch and open up the box. See if there is any wire loose inside. If there is reconnect them and use electric tape to seal the deal.
What it does is make the wire shockproof and solidifies the joint. Reconnect the fixture screw in everything and test again. It should work. Unless you decided to go pro and stopped following the steps in order.
However, the guide is not only for the indoor spot light installation. You can also install a spot light in your indoor Link Kitchen, Drawing Room, Living Room and so on. And when you want to set this Drawing room you need to find out a fantastic place to setup. A proper spot light can be decorating your Kitchen and for that you need to make some kitchen decoration ideas too.
After all, if you can install the solar spot light in the outdoors you can easily install this in your indoor without any electrician or any plumbers.
Installing an LED floodlight is exciting because not only do you get more illumination, but you also get a lower utility bill. However, if you didn’t have an exterior floodlight previously, you will need to install it first. In most cases, you would opt to install exterior light without junction box.
But you must have the junction box somewhere indoors, where you have spliced the electric wires together. This is a NEC Code requirement to lower the risk of fires from electrical wire junctions.
It is simpler and you get to do away with additional work and costs of buying and installing a junction box.
However, a junction box makes work easier in case you need to do more external wiring later on. We recommend that you use a junction box. Anyway, read on to find out how you can do it in five simple steps.
Exterior Wiring Installation
There is really not much of a difference when it comes to exterior wiring and fixtures when compared to their interior counterparts. The only difference is that they need protection from the extreme outdoor elements. You will be surprised how much damage the constant heating and cooling, as well as UV-light do to exposed wires.
The good news is that exterior LED floodlights comes with a casing designed to protect them from harmful rays and extreme temperature changes daily. They cost a little bit. However, you will easily find out it is worth it if you have ever used an interior light outdoors -they simply don’t last that much.
5 Steps to Install a Install Exterior Light without Junction Box
- Find a Suitable Mounting Location for the Exterior Light.
- Locate the Mounting Point for the Exterior Light from the Inside.
- Run the Wire to Exterior Light’s Mounting Point.
- Mount the LED Exterior Floodlight.
- Turn ON the Exterior Light.
How to Install Exterior Light without Junction Box
Step 1: Find a Suitable Mounting Location
Identify the best location to mount your exterior flood light. Ideally, it should light as much space as possible and not be obstructed by anything. Outdoor lights serve as deterrence to would-be intruders. However, you should also be sure that location and height do not violate building and electrical codes. You may contact the city’s local authorities for guidance if you aren’t sure about it. Many have Local Authority websites answers for such common questions.
Step 2: Locate the Mounting Point from the Inside
You need to look behind the wall if the location you have chosen and make sure there is enough working space. You will need sufficient space when running the electric wire from distribution panel or a nearby junction box to that point. The wall should also allow you to use mounting clips to hold the electric cable. Go ahead and drill a hole at that point, it should just wide enough for the cable alone. You may use some caulk to seal any additional space.
Step 3: Run the Wire to Exterior Light’s Mounting Point.
Turn OFF the Circuit Breaker from which the wire you are about to run draws its power. Use a Tester to make sure that the Breaker is off, and the terminal that you will run the wire from isn’t still powered. If you aren’t sure you are doing the right thing, simply call an electrician to avoid putting yourself and other in harm’s way.
Next, run the cable from the nearby junction box or from the distribution panel -Where the circuit breaker is housed- to your chosen mounting location. The electric wire should run on the inside and only exit where the LED flood light will be mounted. Do not turn ON the circuit breaker yet. That will be the very last step.
You May Install an Exterior Light Switch
If you do not want to use the Distribution panel to turn ON and OFF the exterior light, then include a switch. Mount it where it is easily accessible and indoors. Then run the cable to the switch first, before you run it to where you will mount the exterior light.
Step 4: Mount the LED Floodlight
Once the electric cable exits where you will do the mounting, you need to mount the outdoor light so that you can connect it to the wire. To do that, you need to drill holes that will match its mounting bracket. You may use the bracket to draw an outline and the exact point where you will drill the holes.
Drill the holes and use anchor bolts to secure the LED flood light’s bracket onto the wall. After the outdoor light is securely mounted, the next and final step is to connect the electrical cable/wire onto the Floodlight’s terminals. Follow the guide that came with the floodlight if you aren’t sure which terminal connect to the live, neutral, and ground wires.
Step 5: Turn ON the Exterior Light
Once you have connected the electric cable to the floodlight, check the whole cable length from the floodlight to the circuit breaker. Ensure there aren’t any exposed wires, and then turn the Circuit breaker ON, followed by the switch, if you included one.
Your exterior Light is Now Installed.
That is it, as you can see, it isn’t a lot of work, but it is still requires some effort and planning. Overall, if you install an LED outdoor floodlight it will improve your home’s exterior aesthetics at night, and security. I hope that you found this guide to be informative and engaging. Enjoy your home’s new outdoor look every night.
2 thoughts on “Install Exterior Light Without Junction Box In 5 Steps”
Small question, where did you find in any NEC that indicated its ok not to use junction boxes to protect wire connections. I would really like to know.
You are right, whenever you splice wires, you must house them in a junction box. However, you don’t need to have the junction box where the fixture is. But you can use an existing indoor junction box, to house the spliced wires. And then run wires to your external light fixture from the existing indoor junction box.
want to install light fixtures on each side of my garage door if I use weather proof boxes should any type of light fixture fit over them?
3 Answers 3
If you are wanting to install a wall sconce, you need to install one that is rated for outdoor use.
Note: The shape box you need to use will be dependent on what fixtures you would like to install. Some fixtures need round boxes while others require a rectangular box. My examples show round boxes, but this is not the only choice.
Aside from being constructed for outdoor (ab)use, outdoor rated fixtures typically include a foam/rubber gasket, a specially designed fixture base, or some other means for ensuring water resistance. Additionally, in many cases, you should use silicone caulk around any possible points of water incursion (if possible).
Some fixture bases come with extra holes for mounting flood lights. These extra holes should be plugged and then caulked around the seams. Note the fixtures are installed in the side holes, and the hole in the middle that has been plugged.
It is also good practice to use wire nuts that contain silicone sealant, known as weatherproof wire nuts among other names, or to wrap normal wire nuts in electrical tape. This provides an extra layer of moisture defense for your electrical connections.
I’m looking for a shortcut. I’m installing a new outdoor light on a brick surface. It’s a standard lantern type fixture that normally mounts onto a waterproof metal work box. I’m trying to avoid chiseling out the brick but would rather somehow surface mount the fixture directly on the brick surface. Are there any new devices to allow surface mounting without chiseling the brick?
All "standard" surface mount electrical junction boxes I search for are not workable. Not flush enough! The entry light I’m installing is a lantern style surface mount fixture. It mounts flush on the brick wall on my porch. It’s for illuminating the entry door area and the stoop (4 concrete steps) that lead up to the door. My problem is that I can’t find a flush mountable (low profile) waterproof junction box that can be completely hidden behind the fixtures mounting base. You’d think, in this day and age, there would be a trick for the homeowner to avoid chiseling out the old bricks to mortar in junction boxes.
Let’s try this approach.
Do they make an "all-in-one" wall mounted entry light with a built-in junction box incorporated in the mounting base so I can completely avoid the "in the brick" standard junction box?
I completed the installation today. Your pancake box idea did the trick!
I completed the installation today. Your pancake box idea did the trick!
brunno, can you detail your installation? What fixture did you use? I have the exact same issue.
brunno, can you detail your installation? What fixture did you use? I have the exact same issue.
Lee MD ;
I went to Home Depot and bought a "pancake electrical box" which was very low profile (flat as possible).
1) I carefully measured where the lamp would be located. Not too low to get in the way, not to high to not be effective.
2) I used Tapcon Concrete Screws to mount this pancake box to the brick wall.
3) Then I marked where the hole was located in the back of the box.
4) I removed the pancake box and drilled a hole in the brick surface at the mark for my 14-3 wire.
5) I threaded the wire into the pancake box and re-mounted the pancake box to the wall again.
6) I made my electrical connections to the lamp and mounted the lamp to the pancake box (the pancake box fit underneath the lamp shroud very well).
Note: The fixture I used was a Home Depot fixture. You can use any fixture just as long as the pancake box will fit beneath the shroud and the mounting screws for the fixture are matched to fit the lamp. I’d purchase the pancake box first and then find a suitable fixture to fit the pancake box. Much easier that way. I did it the opposite, purchased the lamp first, but it just so happened that the pancake box easily fit under the lamp shroud (the part that mounts flush against the brick wall)
Automatic lighting, such as streetlights, often uses photocell sensors—also known as photoeyes—to sense how much ambient light there is. Once the photocell detects low enough light levels, the light turns on or conversely, rising external light levels will turn the light off.
The photocell is made up of a resistor attached to photosensitive plates. As more light hits the plates, the resistance (the amount of current that travels through the resistor) changes, turning the light on and off. This technology is convenient for all types of outdoor locations.
With no user input required, there’s no concern about setting timers or forgetting to turn the lights on. The photocell acts similar to how a light switch would—as such, photocell sensors are also sometimes called photoelectric switches.
Photocells work all year round, activating at dusk and turning off at dawn, even when the days are longer in summer or shorter in winter. As they sense the amount of light rather than operating at a set time, they don’t need to be adjusted when sunrise or sunset shifts with the seasons.
Many outdoor lighting setupsuse motion sensors. However, photocell sensors and motion sensors typically serve different purposes. While a motion sensor might be useful to keep stray animals away from dumpsters and garbage cans, for example, a photocell can keep a parking lot safely and consistently lit for long periods of time.
How to Install a Photocell Sensor for Outdoor Use
The following steps will guide you through the installation of a photocell sensor. This project requires some electrical work, so if you do not feel confident or safe performing these tasks, you should contact an electrician to install the photocell for you.
- Turn off the circuit breaker to your outside light. If you do not know which breaker powers your light, turn off all breakers in the building to ensure that power is cut off. Double check that the power is off by flipping the switch to the outdoor light to make sure it doesn’t turn on.
- Disassemble the housing that contains your exterior light. You may want to document how it comes apart with photographs so that you can easily put it back together.
- You should see two black wires on the photocell. Those black wires need to be tapped in to the black wire that runs between the light fixture and your structure’s main power. Disconnect the black wire going from the house to the light fixture.
- Connect one black wire on the photocell to the black wire that comes from the building. Be sure to twist the exposed copper wire so that it forms a tight connection.
- Connect the second black wire on the photocell to the black wire on your light fixture, making sure that the copper wire is twisted together completely.
- Cover the new connections you made with electrical caps. Ensure that the cap is tight around the wires.
- Tape your connections completely with electrical tape. Make sure that there are no exposed copper wires.
- To test the photocell, turn the power back on at the breaker. Make sure that the light switch is in the on position. Cover the photocell with your hand—if the light turns on when the photocell is covered, your photocell is working properly.
- Finish installing the photocell by putting your light fixture back together.
If you are installing a new light fixture then the procedure is similar to the one above. To install a new light fixture, you may need the following:
- The new photoelectric switch
- Wire strippers
- Needle nose pliers
- A screwdriver
- A voltage tester
- Electrical tape
- Wire nuts
- Silicone sealant
Steps for installing a new fixture:
- Turn off the power at the circuit breaker.
- Remove the existing light fixture.
- Install the new light fixture with the pre-installed photoelectric switch using the mounting instructions that come with it.
- To wire your new light fixture, use your pliers to cut about 3/8" of insulation away from the wires. Twist together the black wire of the light fixture and the black wire of your house. Cover the new connection with a wire nut and make sure it is tight. Do the same thing with the white wires. Always connect black wires to black wires and white wires to white wires.
- Cover all connections with electrical tape and tuck all the wires away.
- Finish installing your light fixture per the manufacturer's instructions.
- Once everything is assembled, test your light as shown above.
LiTian Lighting provides photocells that will fit in a variety of places, including outlet boxes, post lamps, or outdoor lights. Our products are well constructed and feature long service lives. If you are interested in photocells for LED lighting, please contact us.
Today’s modern pendant lights come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs to fit every decor and function.
Trendy pendant fixtures are often used in clusters as task lighting over kitchen islands and work areas, over a dining room table, or a smaller, single light over a sink or desk area.
If you’re in the mood to update your existing light fixtures to more contemporary pendant styles and are a little handy, follow the step-by-step guide we’ve assembled on how to install pendant lighting.
Before You Install Pendant Light Fixtures, Think About.
While you may spend hours trying to decide on the perfect pendant light to match your distinctive style, installation is an important factor in how it looks and performs.
- For an 8-foot ceiling height, the pendant light should hang from 12-20 inches down. Add 3 inches for each additional foot of ceiling height.
- For pendant lights that will hang over tables, countertops, or islands, measure up 30-36 inches.
- Before installing your lights, make sure you have a clear sightline across the kitchen.
- Dimmer switches can be useful for adjusting the light level when needed.
Complete Important Installation Prep Work First
- Remove the fixture and components from the box.
- Turn off the electricity at the circuit breaker or fuse box.
- Take down the old fixture (assuming you’re upgrading) by detaching the fixture, removing the old wire connectors (after using a voltage tester to make sure the power is off.)
- Disconnect the wires, remove the base, and trim pieces.
- Make sure there is a beam or support piece to hold the fixture securely.
- Tighten the screws in the electrical box.
How to Install a Pendant Light Fixture Step By Step
Image via 1000bulbs.com
- Connect the wires from the back of the fixture to the wires hanging out of the junction box—black to black and white to white. Remove some wire insulation with wire strippers to expose connections. Wrap wire ends together. You may need some help holding the light in place.
- Screw on wire nuts and secure them tightly.
- Attach the ground wire (either bare copper or green) by wrapping it around the ground screw in the junction box.
- Push the wires into the junction box.
- Install the mounting bracket and screws.
- Screw the fixture to the bracket.
- Install the glass globe or shade, a light bulb, trim, cover and any other remaining parts.
- Turn the power on.
How to Install Pendant Lights Over an Island
A kitchen island is a great place for a snack bar or extra workspace. In most cases, you’ll want to install multiple pendant lights for the best illumination. As a general guide, you should allow 30-36″ of space from the top of the counter to the bottom of the pendant. You can adjust this up or down depending on personal preference.
Use two pendant lights for a short island that’s 6′ to 7′ wide. The lights should be 30″ apart and from the center of the island. You should have at least 6″ from the edge of the counter. Use three pendants for a larger island. The space between the lights should be the same as the fixture width or diameter.
How Much Does It Cost to Install Pendant Lights?
The cost to install pendant lights is dependent on a few factors:
- Are you doing all the work yourself?
- Are you purchasing the pendants and having a handyman install them?
- Are you hiring a contractor to do the entire job?
If you do the work yourself, you can save on installation fees. Pendant lights can cost anywhere between $20 and hundreds of dollars. Add shades or globes, specialty bulbs, or extra large size, and expect to pay more per light.
If you’ve decided to hire a handyman to do the installation work, add $65 to $85 per hour for the labor.
Hire a contractor to provide the lights and do the entire installation and the total cost should run between $120 – $395. This option is best when you’re installing pendants in an area that doesn’t currently have a light fixture, or if you’ve never done electrical work before.
When in Doubt, Bring in a Professional to Help
If you live in an area where Puls offers handyman services, we can help you set up your new pendant lights in no time. We’ve got a team of skilled technicians that are ready to be at your home to make sure your job gets done safe and right.
In addition to light fixture installation, our handyman services include everything from cleaning out your gutters, to installing appliances, to painting your bedroom, or cleaning your carpet.
For a low rate of $118, you’ll get your pendant light installed and a guarantee that the job is done right.
Call or go online today to schedule a convenient appointment based on your schedule.
A step-by-step guide to lighting the driveway with outdoor garage light fixtures with a motion sensor.
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One of the simplest, most effective ways to enhance the safety and security of your home is to add a motion-sensor floodlight to the garage. The dual-lamp model installed here comes on automatically if something—or someone—crosses its field of vision.
If you’re hesitant about working with electricity, don’t worry. We’ve greatly simplified the process by safely tapping into an existing garage circuit and by running the wires through surface-mounted metal tubing, called conduit. This technique speeds the installation by eliminating the need to blindly pull wires through walls and ceilings.
All of the supplies required for this project are sold at hardware stores and home centers, including the thin-wall metal conduit, which is referred to as EMT for electrical metallic tubing.
Outdoor Garage Light With Motion Sensor Overview
Illustration by Gregory Nemec
The outdoor garage light shown here has two lamps and an infrared motion sensor, which automatically turns on the lights if a person or vehicle approaches the garage (they go off after a few minutes). Home electrical projects like this typically require you to connect wires to the main electrical panel and then fish them behind walls, under floors, and above ceilings—not an easy job.
However, the wiring for this driveway floodlight is confined to the garage, so you can tap in to an existing electrical outlet and then use easy-to-install surface-mounted metal conduit to run the wiring.
The 1⁄2-inch-diameter conduit, known as EMT (electrical metallic tubing), is sold at home centers and electrical suppliers for about 20 cents a foot. You can also purchase right-angle conduit connectors ($4) and preformed curved elbows ($3) that allow you to turn corners with the rigid metal.
Master electrician Allen Gallant suggests replacing the two-plug outlet with a combination GFCI receptacle and switch ($22) brought out from the wall with an extension box ($4.50). He prefers to assemble a fixture from separate parts (about $60 total) instead of buying a single unit because that way he’s able to upgrade the quality of the motion sensor.
WARNING: Before starting this project, turn off the electricity to the garage at the main electrical panel. Then test the garage receptacle by plugging in a radio or lamp to confirm that the power is off.
How to Install Outdoor Garage Lights (With Motion Sensors)
1. Attach the Extension Box
- After turning off the electricity to the garage, remove one of the existing wall receptacles.
- Screw the metal mounting plate that comes with the extension box to the electrical box in the wall.
- Use a screwdriver to pry the round knock-out plug from the top of the extension box. Attach a 1/2-inch metal conduit connector to the top of the box.
- Fasten the extension box to the mounting plate with the two long screws provided.
2. Connect the Conduit
- Measure from the top of the extension box to the garage ceiling and then subtract 1 1/2 inches. Saw a piece of conduit to that dimension and file smooth any sharp burrs.
- Slide a right-angle connector onto one end of the conduit. Insert the other end into the connector on the extension box.
- Put a conduit hanger on the conduit. Check that the conduit is perfectly plumb, then mark the hanger’s position.
- Move the conduit and screw the hanger to the wall. Slip the conduit back into place and secure it by tightening the screw on the hanger.
Tip: Use a magnetic torpedo level, which sticks to the conduit.
3. Install a Preformed Conduit Elbow
- Hold a conduit elbow against the wall corner and cut a piece of conduit to fit between the elbow and the right-angle connector.
- Insert the conduit into the right-angle connector; if it’s longer than 12 inches, install a conduit hanger.
- Join elbow to the conduit with a straight coupling.
- Continue installing conduit across the front wall, ending it over the center of the garage door. Use hangers every 12 inches.
4. Bore Through the Garage Wall
- Measure from the top of the doorway to the ceiling and subtract 1 inch. Then move outside and mark the siding that dimension up from the center of the door.
- Bore a level hole through the garage wall with a 7/8-inch-diameter spade bit.
- Inside, connect a junction box to the conduit running across the front wall. Then screw the box to the ceiling.
- Run a length of 14/2 nonmetallic cable (Romex) from the junction box through the hole to the outdoors.
5. Attach the Round Outlet Box
- Fasten a cable connector to the hole in the base of the round outlet box.
- Feed the nonmetallic cable through the connector, then tighten the connector screw.
- Fill the hole in the wall with silicone caulk or putty.
- Press the round outlet box flat against the siding and secure it with two 2-inch-long galvanized decking screws.
Tip: Use a connector wherever a cable or wire enters a box.
6. Pull the Wires Through the Conduit
- Remove the cover plate from the right-angle conduit connector that’s nearest the wall receptacle extension box.
- Feed an electrician’s fish tape into this connector and push it through the conduit until it comes out the extension box.
- Use electrician’s tape to attach one each of black, white, and green 14-gauge stranded copper wires to the fish tape.
- Pull the fish tape until the wires come out of the connector, then undo the fish tape.
- At the junction box, push the tape into the conduit. Reconnect the three wires to it, then pull them into the box.
7. Assemble the Outdoor Garage Lights
- Carefully screw the motion sensor into the center hole in the round lamp-holder cover.
- Thread the two lamp holders into the holes on either side of the motion sensor.
- Finger-tighten the motion sensor and lamp holders; don’t use pliers. Final tightening and adjustment aren’t done until after the garage light is mounted on the garage wall.
Tip: If desired, spray-paint the outdoor garage lights to match the house. But not the sensor — paint might impede its performance.
One of the issues you come across when installing a light fixture on aluminum siding is the fact that the siding doesn’t have a solid vertical surface. If you cut a hole in the siding, install an electric box and mount the fixture directly on the siding, you can’t prevent moisture from infiltrating the box and damaging the wiring. Fortunately, there is an easy solution. You can buy a vinyl mounting block that fits on top of the siding. If you pick a model that comes with its own electric box, you don’t need to install another one.
Turn off the power, by flipping off that breaker, to the area where you’ll install the light.
Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the siding at the location where you want the fixture. Run electric cable from the nearest point of connection to the hole and push the end through. Give yourself at least 6 inches of slack.
Feed the cable through the hole in the back of the vinyl mounting block and set the block against the siding. It is pre-notched to follow the contours of the siding. Be sure to measure the siding overlap before buying the block to ensure a proper fit.
Screw the block to the sheathing with 2-inch wood screws. To support the fixture, the sheathing should be 1/2 inch thick. If you have 3/8-inch sheathing, screw the block to a wall stud.
Strip the cable with a utility knife; separate the wires and strip the end of each one with a wire stripper. Twist the wires to the lamp wires — black to black, white to white, and bare to bare or green — and secure each wire connection with a wire cap.
Push the wires into the electric box — which is part of the mounting block — and screw the light fixture to the block with the screws that come with the fixture.