How to Make a Wing Chun Dummy
- Wing Chun
- How to Make a Wing Chun Dummy
A Wing Chun dummy is an essential training aid for anyone looking to master advanced techniques. They’re also a must-have for anyone who struggles to maintain a regular schedule of live sparring in a face-to-face setting. Although incredibly useful, a ready-made Wing Chun dummy is a costly investment. The best Wing Chun dummies can set you back several thousand dollars, while even the most budget-friendly of models can put a serious dent in your bank balance. If you’re looking for a cost-effective alternative and have some basic DIY skills under your belt, it might make sense to consider building your own from scratch.
How to Make a Wing Chun Dummy
Wing Chun Dummy Build Basics
The average Wing Chun dummy is made up of a body section, along with two arms positioned at shoulder level. A standard dummy should also include a lower arm, usually positioned at around the same height as the stomach of an average person. The final core element of a Wing Chun dummy is a leg, which should take on a slightly curved angle. Once completed, a Wing Chun dummy may look fairly simple, but there’s a considerable amount of engineering that goes into the design and build of one of these training aids.
In the past, premium hardwoods were the material of choice for Wing Chun dummies. Although teak is a great choice of material to use if you can afford it, working with this particularly robust wood can be difficult. You also don’t want to run the risk of damaging costly materials as you carry out your build project. As a general rule, any durable hardwood should be sufficient for a DIY Wing Chun dummy. When selecting suitable wood, avoid any materials with obvious cracks or impurities. This is less about aesthetics and more to do with the fact such imperfections are a sign of structural weakness. You should also avoid the temptation to purchase more affordable softwood to build your dummy. Softwoods are simply too brittle to stand up to the demanding requirements of a Wing Chun dummy.
Building the Body
Once you’ve selected your materials, you can move onto the build itself. Use a quality piece of hardwood for the dummy body, making sure you have a core piece that is close in weight to an actual human. This provides you with a more realistic weight simulation when training. Ideally, the overall height of this body section should be around 150 centimeters. You don’t have to carry out too much prep work with this section, but you should at least ensure the exposed surface is smoothed out and free of splinters to avoid minor injuries as you train. The outside edges should also be smoothed out to prevent injury.
When the dummy body has been prepped, you can start creating holes to mount the arms and leg. Use a circular drill to make pilot holes, before moving onto a manual chisel to shape square holes for the arms. As you’ll need to leave room for both of the higher arms to pass through the center of your dummy, the arm hole on the left-hand side of your dummy should be positioned slightly higher than the one on the right.
Installing the Arms and Leg
The arms of your dummy need to be incredibly strong, so make sure you’re using the same hardwood material that you’ve made your dummy body from. Although you can make the arms by hand, doing so is incredibly time-consuming. Instead, use a mechanical lathe or something similar to create the smooth edges required. Create three of these arms. Each arm needs to measure approximately 56 centimeters in total, although you’ll then need to cut each arm down into two identical halves. One half is slotted into the main dummy body, while the other is stuck in the front of the Wing Chun dummy itself. While the arms that slot fully into the dummy will need to be square, the halves that are protruding from the front of the dummy will need to be cylindrical. A slightly tapered profile is also ideal.
Crafting a leg for your Wing Chun dummy is a little more difficult. As with the arms, the leg needs to be divided into two distinct sections. One half makes up the bulk of the leg, culminating at an artificial knee. The second half curves slightly downwards, capping off at an artificial ankle. The upper half of the leg needs to be around 56 centimeters long. Half of this length is to be pushed through the wooden dummy, while the other half will extend outwards in front of the main body. When crafting your dummy leg, make sure the half that will be slotted through the body is thinner in profile than the exposed section. This will prevent the leg from becoming lodged in place when you make contact with it. A square profile is also essential as this will prevent the leg from rotating in place as you train.
Once you’ve taken care of all the hard work, you can think about framing your Wing Chun dummy so it can be used for training. An easy way to do this is to use two vertical posts. There’s no strict requirements when it comes to dimensions here, but the posts should be sturdy enough that they can take the full weight of your dummy. Once you’ve decided on your support posts, securely mount your dummy in place. You then to attach these posts to the wall, ceiling or floor. When framing your dummy, just ensure you’re not restricting access to it. A completed DIY Wing Chun dummy can be left untreated. However, if you don’t like an untreated aesthetic, consider applying a light coat of natural wax for a low-key finish.
Here’s how to build your very own Wing Chun dummy from home.
By CheapChad Follow
In this Instructable, I’ll how to make a cheap dummy using common household items. This can be made in about 15-20 minutes with great realistic results in the end.
Step 1: Prepare the Materials
You’ve got to always prepare what you need first!
To make this dummy, you’ll need:
– An old pair of pants
– A bunch of old newspapers or clothes
– An old sweater, coat, or jacket
– A mask
– An old pair of shoes
Step 2: Stuff the Legs
One of the most crucial steps is the stuffing.
– First, gather your pants then your old newspapers or clothes.
– When using newspaper, crumple it slightly. Don’t crumple it as much as you can.
– Start from the bottom and work your way up.
– Stuff the dummy legs as realistically as you can.
– Don’t put a lot of old newspapers or clothes in one area, then none in another area.
Step 3: Put on Some Shoes
You do want it to look real – don’t you? Well if so, you’ll need some shoes!
To put these on, just simply tuck the bottom of the pants into the shoes.
Step 4: Stuff Your Torso
Just as important as stuffing your legs, you’ll need to stuff your torso.
– Start at the arms and work your way up.
– Just as you did for the legs, stuff it with your old newspapers or clothes.
– You may want to put more stuffing in the shoulder area. When the dummy is sitting down, this makes it more realistic.
– You might want to add fake hands or gloves to make it look even more realistic.
– You might want to add stuffing to your mask to give it a 3-D look.
Step 5: Finish It
Now that your done stuffing, you need to put it all together.
– Tuck the pants in the torso to put it together.
– Know where you’re going to put your dummy.
Putting the Dummy in a Sitting Position
– Lift your dummy up from the bottom when moving it.
– Slowly set it down.
– Set it up the way you want it to look.
Putting the Dummy in a Standing Position
– Use a wood post or anything you want to hold it up.
– Stick the bottom of the wood post in the ground, and the other end up the back torso of the dummy.
– You may need to use a staple gun to staple the legs to the torso so they don’t fall apart.
Creating Dummies: 5 Ways to Make a Picture Book Dummy
What is a book dummy?
Your dummy is a black and white mock-up of your book with 2 color samples either included separately or inserted in the dummy.
This is not supposed to be a final draft; this is simply a rough idea of your entire book! However, it is the clearest most effective way of showcasing your work, so make sure to make it as engaging, exciting, emotional, funny or dramatic as possible.
The Dummy Makes it Easier to Think About:
- Where Your Page Turns Should Be
- Incorporating Different Angles and Points of View within the Images
- Make Each Page a Surprise and a Pleasure to See
- Whenever Possibl e, Use Images That Face Right to Guide the Viewer Forward to Turn the Page
There are Many Ways to Create Your Picture Book Dummy
You Just Have to Find Out Which One Works for You!
Within This Instant-Access Course,
You’llLearn How to Create Practical Picture Book Dummies Using:
- MS Word
- Hand Glued
So, if You’re Ready to Start Your Journey and Get Your Picture Book Dummy Completed and Ready for Publishers, Agents and Editors, Just Click Here or on the Dummy Below!
Dr. Mira Reisberg is the Director of the Children’s Book Academy and an acquiring Editor and Art Director for Clearfork Publishing/Spork. She is also a former literary agent who co-teaches most of the courses with her fabulous faculty. Mira has published best-selling and award-winning children’s books herself, and helped many authors and illustrators make and get wonderful books published. In fact, Children’s Book Academy students have published or contracted over 370 books so far!
What kinds of formats will there be?
Most of our courses are a combination of lessons, worksheets, and interviews with experts. Sometimes these are in video format, other times not. With interactive courses, there is also a very active Facebook community page and weekly critiquing webinars, making it very lively and lots of fun. It is a multi-modal approach that works well for different people learning styles.
Who will benefit from this class?
Anyone who has a passion or interest in writing or illustrating books for children.
When does the class start?
If this is an instant access course, access starts today for a full year. If it is an interactive course, the dates will be towards the top of the page with 6 months of additional access, which often ends up being much more. Interactive courses also often include an e-book of course materials.
Are there any specific time requirements?
No. The only time sensitive areas are if you are in an interactive course and want to submit your work for a live webinar critique, there is a specific deadline, and if you join one of the optional critique groups you need to honor your group’s critiquing timeline. The weekly webinars also happen at a specific day and time provided in advance, but if you can’t make it live, they are also recorded for later viewing.
Do you offer refunds?
We are so sorry, but there are no refunds. Because we give bonus passwords or access to the course at the time of purchase, it is impossible to offer refunds. We appreciate your understanding. However, we do offer a 100% learning money back guarantee for interactive courses, that if you read the lessons, participate and do the work, and at the end of a year, don’t feel that you learned a lot, we will refund your money in full.
What do I do if I have further questions?
You can email Mira directly at [email protected] with the title of the course in the subject head.
A dummy variable is a variable that takes on the values 1 and 0; 1 means something is true (such as age < 25, sex is male, or in the category “very much”).
Dummy variables are also called indicator variables.
As we will see shortly, in most cases, if you use factor-variable notation, you do not need to create dummy variables.
In cases where factor variables are not the answer, you may use generate to create one dummy variable at a time and tabulate to create a set of dummies at once.
Using factor variables instead of generating dummy variables
I have a discrete variable, size, that takes on discrete values from 0 to 4
If I want a dummy for all levels of size except for a comparison group or base level, I do not need to create 4 dummies. Using [U] factor variables, I may type
or use an estimator
If I want to use a dummy that is 1 if size is large (size==3) and 0 otherwise, I type
If I want to make the comparison group, or base level, of size be size==3 instead of the default size==0, I type
You can also use factor-variable notation to refer to categorical variables, their interactions, or interactions between categorical and continuous variables.
For example, I can specify the interaction of each level of size (except the base level) and the continuous variable x by typing
The c. instructs Stata that variable x is continuous.
In all the cases above, you did not need to create a variable.
Moreover, many of Stata’s postestimation facilities, including in particular the margins command, are aware of factor variables and will handle them elegantly when making computations.
There are some instances where creating dummies might be worthwhile. We illustrate these below.
Using generate to create dummy variables
This statement does the same thing as the first two statements. age<25 is an expression, and Stata evaluates it; returning 1 if the statement is true and 0 if it is false.
If you have missing values in your data, it would be better if you type
Stata treats a missing value as positive infinity, so the expression age<25 evaluates to 0, not missing, when age is missing. (If the expression were age>25, the expression would evaluate to 1 when age is missing.)
You do not have to type the parentheses around the expression.
is good enough. Here are some more illustrations of generating dummy variables:
In the above line, enrolled is itself a dummy variable—a variable taking on values zero and one. We could have typed & enrolled==1, but typing & enrolled is good enough.
Just as Stata returns 1 for true and 0 for false, Stata assumes that 1 means true and that 0 means false.
Using tabulate to create dummy variables
tabulate with the generate() option will generate whole sets of dummy variables.
Say that variable group takes on the values 1, 2, and 3. If you type
you will see a frequency table of how many times group takes on each of those values. If you type
you will see the table, and tabulate will create variable names g1, g2, and g3 that take on values 1 and 0, g1 being 1 when group==1, g2 being 1 when group==2, and g3 being 1 when group==3. Watch:
What you name the variable is up to you. If we had typed
the new variables would have been named res1, res2, and res3.
It is also not necessary for the variable being tabulated to take sequential values or even be integers. Here is another example:
If you love training then having a grappling dummy is a great way to train at any time of the day. Of course, you can even make a DIY grappling dummy at home. So, let’s explore how you can do grappling dummy homemade.
Build It Yourself Grappling Dummy
Having a grappling dummy is a great addition to your training. It will help you practice many moves and expand your skills. You will be able to do all of it from the comfort of your home.
You can buy a grappling dummy too from BJJ MARTIAL ARTS. However, you will have to check your budget as some can be very expensive. So, why invest in one when you can make your own DIY grappling dummy?
It will barely cost you anything and it will be just as good as a grappling dummy you would have bought from a store. You can easily create a grappling dummy that is flexible, durable, strong, and allows you to practice many moves.
You can work on your combat skills as you can practice leg locks, arm triangles, triangle chokes, armbars, sweeps, and so many more moves. You will be practicing these skills every day and soon you will be able to master all the difficult techniques. So, if you want to take your combat skills to the next level then making a DIY grappling dummy is the way to go.
How Can I Build It?
Of course, you can. Anyone can make a grappling dummy at home. All you will need are the right materials so that you can execute it perfectly. However, the problem is that many people get demotivated if they don’t make it to training.
They stop practicing with the grappling dummy as well and this can lead to you not practicing your skills enough. So, when you do make a grappling dummy you will need to be consistent and dedicated.
After all, practicing any skill takes time, focus, and motivation. Even if you can’t make it to training you have to be dedicated enough to practice your combat at home. Use the grappling dummies as a source of motivation so you can practice your skills successfully at home as well, even if you don’t go to training.
You can even see some online tutorials and practice with a grappling dummy through these tutorials.
Here is what you will need to make a grappling dummy at home:
Here is a step-by-step guide on how to make a grappling dummy at home with these materials:
- Open up the GI
- Place the open hoodies over the top
- Roll both the towels and then stuff them into the arms of the hoodie
- Zip the hoodies back
- Pop your teddy bear or pillow dummy inside the GI
- Tie the belt
Yes, that is all you need to do to successfully make a grappling dummy at home. It will not break your budget and you will be able to practice every day! Now you know how to build a grappling dummy but the next step after making a grappling dummy is filling it.
How fill a grappling dummy
You have to fill them up with different materials according to your preferences fill it with a mixture of paper, clothes, sand, foam, and any other material you think will make your grappling dummy work better. if you still have any question feel free to ask any suggestion about this article kindly tell us in comments box.
Converting a categorical variable to dummy variables can be a tedious process when done using a series of series of if then statements. Consider the following example data file.
The variable rep78 is coded with values from 1 – 5 representing various repair histories. We can create dummy variables for rep78 by writing separate assignment statements for each value as follows:
As you see from the proc freq below, the dummy variables were properly created, but it required a lot of if then else statements.
Had rep78 ranged from 1 to 10 or 1 to 20, that would be a lot of typing (and prone to error). Here is one possible shortcut you could use when you need to create dummy variables.
As you see below, the dummy variables were created successfully.
Let’s look at each statement in some detail.
This statement defines an array called dummys that creates five dummy variables rep78_1 to rep78_5 giving each the minimum storage length required, i.e., 3 bytes. You would change rep78_1 to rep78_5 to be the names you want for your dummy variables. The asterisk in the brackets tells SAS to automatically count up the number of new variables based on the number of variables listed at the end of the statement.
This initialized each dummy variable to 0. You would change 5 to be the number of values your variable could have.
Set the appropriate dummy variable to 1. For example, if rep78 = 3, then dummys(dummys( rep78 ) = 1 will assign a value of 1 to the third element in the array, i.e., assign 1 to rep78_3. You would change rep78 to the name of the variable for which you want to create dummy variables.
Above, we used a loop to set each array to 0 before we started assigning values to the array. Below, we use (5*0) on the array statement to set the five arrays to 0. We thank Mike Zdeb for this suggestion. Also in this example, we have added some if then statements to account for missing data. This is not necessary in this example because we have no missing data in our little example dataset. However, if the rep78 variable did contain missing data, the if then statements would be necessary.
You are going to need a friend or two to help you do this. Ideally two friends is the best, one to rip tape and one to place it on you. It’d be best if they’re close friends because when you get cut out of the DTD you will be left in your underwear.
You can hobble around a bit while you’re being duct taped but once your joints are taped try your best to not move them or it will stretch the tape. You’ll have to hold pretty still towards the end of the process.
Make sure to wear underwear under your coveralls. Not a favorite pair since they might accidentally get cut.
Use the bathroom before you start and have water nearby so you don’t get dehydrated. Making a DTD can take a couple hours.
It’s smart to make sure you and your friends read through this tutorial carefully before beginning and leaving it up to make sure everything is right as you work.
If you are at all claustrophobic, or prone to anxiety/panic, make sure the people doing the DTD know this and can watch for warning signs.
1. A pair of disposable painter’s coveralls, these can be found at walmart for $12
2. 4-6 Rolls of Duct tape, 4 rolls should be more than enough if you buy the larger rolls.
3. A permanent marker to write on the duct tape with. Black sharpies work great!
4. Scissors, preferably with rounded tips. Make sure they are sharp enough to cut through a couple layers of tape! Bandage scissors are great if you’re super worried about being nipped.
5. A Metal spoon, you can use this as a barrier between the scissors and skin by wedging it under the tape before you wedge the scissors in.
6. Grocery bags or paper towels
7. A fan or a set up in a cool room, being wrapped in tape is going to get toasty.
8. Arm height items. This could be tricky but items that work: backs of tall chairs, shipping tubes, lamps. Alternatively you can go to the home depot and get PVC pipes cut for the exact height you need for around $5.
If you plan on following a different DTD tutorial please make sure your DTD meets all of these Guidelines
Do not use masking tape, packing tape or gorilla tape.
Your friends should rip/cut the tape in 6-12″ strips as it is applied.
Do not wrap the tape too tightly. This can cut off circulation and cause you to pass out. If your friends begin wrapping you tightly and it’s uncomfortable at all ask them to stop. Cut yourself out and start over. The tape should smoothly lay on your body. You do not want your DTD riding up your groin or constricting your shape at all.
The tape must be layered well to make a nice, thick and durable DTD. You friends should tape over every part of you in at least three layers. There should be no gaps at all in the tape.
It is preferred that the tape be applied in a “criss-cross” pattern to keep it from unraveling after use.
A dummy load is a resistor used to load any radio frequency generator/amplifier to simulate an antenna for testing purposes. It’s used to allow full power output while testing or experimenting without radiating a radio frequency signal. As the radio frequency power is converted to heat, interference is avoided.
Amateur radio operators (hams) or anyone who builds or experiments with radio transmitters should have and use a good dummy load.
I noticed 100 watt 50 ohm resistors on eBay listed at five for $6.50 or one for $1.99. As the resistors were designed to be used as RF loads, I decided to make a good dummy load using only tools that most homes have. The 100 watt resistor and SO-239 connector are shown in Figure 1.
FIGURE 1. A 100 watt resistor and SO-239.
I decided to mount the resistor to the flange of the SO-239 connector. This would make a very small current loop with little radiation, eliminating the need for shielding. Any RF current flowing around a loop radiates, but as the area enclosed by the loop goes to zero, the radiation also goes to zero. The smaller the current loop, the poorer it is as an antenna.
To mount the load on an SO-239, I cut away a small portion of the connector’s back using a hack saw, so as to allow the 50 ohm resistor mounting plate to fit entirely on the SO-239. Refer to Figure 2 for the modified SO-239. Use a file to remove any burs and obtain a flat mounting surface.
FIGURE 2. Modified SO-239.
Next, I drilled holes in the SO-239 flange to match those of the 50 ohm resistor and mounted it using some heatsink compound. I utilized 4-40 screws to avoid the nuts putting pressure on the resistor’s ceramic body. I then used a small piece of copper foil to connect the resistor to the SO-239’s center pin. If you don’t have foil, use some solder wick or stripped braid from coax shield. The other lead of the resistor is its mounting base plate. The dummy load is shown in Figure 3.
FIGURE 3. The dummy load.
I checked the VSWR with an antenna analyzer and it was 1:1 up to 175 MHz (my testing limit). The resistor is rated for use up to 3 GHz. If you’re going to use it above 450 MHz, I would test the one you build to see that it stays at 50 ohms.
Without a heatsink, this dummy load will dissipate five watts with the heat going into the Pl-259 mating connector and its coax. For a low duty cycle, it can take much higher power.
The challenge then becomes how to dissipate 50 watts CW for a couple of minutes; 50 watts being the maximum 100% duty CW output power of most 100 watt transceivers. This required a heatsink that anyone could add using only hand tools.
I chose a length of 1/2 inch aluminum angle I had laying around. I cut it about seven inches long. I filed away a partial circle so I could get more contact area between the angle iron and the S0-239.
On the first try, I filed too much and drilled the mounting screws too close to the bend in the angle. It didn’t lay flat to the S0-239 connection. I then made sure the mounting holes in the angle were located so that it pulled it flat to the SO-239 flange when the screws are tightened.
I offset the mounting point two inches to five inches to allow extra dissipation using a glass of ice water as part of the heatsink. I used some heatsink compound mounted on the angle with 6-32 screws.
While dissipating 50 watts for two minutes with ice water, the 50 ohm resistor’s top surface is under 212°F; refer to Figure 4. The heatsink in ice water with a dry load dissipated 50 watts.
FIGURE 4. The heatsink in ice water with a dry load dissipating 50 watts.
I didn’t give any exact measurements for drilling and filing as none are needed. It’s easy enough to eye-ball.
If you have four buddies to split up a package of five resistors and a length of aluminum angle, this load can be made for less than $3. If you only make one, it will still cost less than $5. Can’t beat that! NV