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Both easy and effective method of any application is tough to find. But regarding cleaning the gun parts, you can apply cold blue. But the first thing is that you must know how to cold blue a gun.
Let’s see that in this article I have brought up the steps considering the basic area.
Table of Contents
What is ‘Bluing’:
Bluing is nothing but changing the chemical composition of the outside of your gun. Why do you need to do it? Simply to say, to prevent rust. Or in other words, to prevent the glare to affect your eyes when shooting. To do bluing, iron needs to be altered into steel to form a coating of magnetite.
- Hot bluing
- Cold Bluing
- Rust Bluing
- Fume bluing
- Carbona bluing
But by following our title, we will go for how to cold blue a pistol/gun.
Why Cold Bluing? – Easy or Inexpensive?
Why we have chosen to explain the cold bluing? Not the others? Is it the best way?
- The easiest way to refinish the steel
- Most inexpensive to blue
- And also easy for the noob
But remember one thing; cold blue is not like a stable way to blue. It may not be so stable as the other process. But the other process needs much labor, experience to perform and last of all expensive. The example of money can be around $150, and that obviously you won’t want to spend. So, for normal people like us, we should go for the homemade cold bluing solution.
What you will need?
– quality is top-notch
If you are searching the best cold bluing kit then here is our suggested gun bluing products for you: Delta provision gun cleaning kit.
Step by step process of how to cold blue a gun
Choose the parts that you want to cold blue. If this is the whole gun parts or spot bluing a gun, then follow the steps properly.
Get rid of the original or old bluing:
At first, you need to do this as a part bluing. That’s so important. Believe me, you will find yourself in a severe problem if you don’t do this before. Your rifle may carry any harmful element. Or can carry various grooves or wear. To set down the problem, you will need to use steel wool, gun oil. You will have to soak the wool perfectly in the oil. Then turn it on the gun to remove any scratch, pits or rust. The reason behind using the wool is that this type won’t take away a lot of metal but still can clear the metal.
After removing the old bluing, let’s focus on the original bluing. If it didn’t remove before, you just need to carry that out. To do this you will need sandpaper. 400 grit sandpaper will work perfectly.
And then you will have to use higher grit sandpaper like 600 grit. And polish then the metal to make that snazzy.
Make the metal-free from degreasing:
After polishing you have to clean the whole metal as it already gets degreased. You have to remove oil, silicon, and grease from the part of the gun. You need to carry the metal-free from the residue using any cleaner like blast type. Make it free from oil or residue as soon as possible.
Then wash the whole part with acetone. Acetone will help you to remove all types of existing synthetic or natural oil. If you find it carefully, you will find good acetone and blaster available in the market. But choose very wisely.
From this step, you have to wear gloves until the last. Because your skin oil also matters!
Apply blue solution:
Now, it is high time to apply the cold bluing solution over the metal. Take a cotton ball and drench it into the solution. Now drag over that ball over the skin of the metal.
Don’t look at the discouraging color turning. Cover the full area of the metal with the solution. But don’t let the solution stock into any particular part. That will leave a spot before drying. So, smoothly drag the solution over the full area.
Rinse with water:
After covering the whole area, you can wait for the maximum one minute. Because if you do late, the black spot will turn over spontaneously. To avoid this rinse the metal with water. Fully drag into a bucket of water. Then keep it in a dry place. You should use a dry and fully lint-free cloth to wipe the water. By this, the solution will fully getaway.
It’s called the finishing process. You have to again use steel wool and polish the metal again to remove any stain or other things. Then wash with acetone again. This will really upgrade the level of the metal. You will get a shiny look after all. Now let the metal dry fully.
For the better option, you can again use a blue solution again. In most of the cases, people don’t understand that the cold bluing process isn’t a stable process. So, you should do another step with a blue solution. You can follow the previous process fully. Then you should again apply steel wool and acetone.
So, the steps are finished here.
You know now how to cold blue a gun. Don’t forget though this application will cost 3 to 4 hours including the drying time, you shouldn’t be done in a hurry. And also after the end, you shouldn’t do any work with the gun. And it will better if you heat at low temperatures somehow. This will help to get the actual color back. So, follow the steps carefully and best of luck. You can also read our shotgun recoil pad guide to choose your best shotgun recoil pad today. Also, maintain essential gun bluing safety measures.
Hi, This is Roland. I love Hunting and it’s my hobby. I love to share my hunting experience in this blog. Keep reading all the articles here and let me know what do you think about this site.
Are you Passionate to hunt at night? What additional tools do you need to improve night vision? Does it SCOPE? MONOCULAR? BINOCULAR? Will regular scoop or monocular help at night? No.
For a hunting venture, you need to be well prepared. There are so many accessories that can make your hunting expedition enjoyable as well as successful. You can’t go too far without having these.
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Welcome to the PickHunting blog. PickHunting provides essential information for the hunting enthusiast. It’s Roland here. Who is an animal and nature lover. Hunting is my just passion & blogging is my profession. I love to share my hunting experience in this blog. Keep reading all the articles here and let me know what do you think about this site. Keep on your eyes in our amazing hunting tips & guides content 🙂
Does your favorite hunting rifle need some TLC? Has your carry gun seen better days? Want to refurbish grandpa’s old shotgun? Working on a custom build and want a custom finish to match? Whatever your gun finishing needs might be, we welcome the opportunity to work with you on your project.
Because a quality firearm finish depends on the proper preparation and treatment of the metal, we take a number of important steps during the restoration process to ensure bluing of the highest quality.
Prior to polishing, we completely disassemble your firearm and strip any remaining finish. We remove all rust and then perform a combination of hand-polishing and wheel polishing as appropriate to the firearm. As we polish, we work from lower to higher grits until we reach the appropriate finish level, taking great care during the polishing process to ensure that original lettering, engraving and proofmarks are not washed out. Our expanded bluing-tank system provides a deep, high-quality bluing, as all parts are run through multiple pre- and post-bluing tanks.
Standard Finish – We polish the metal to a 400-grit finish prior to bluing for a semi-gloss finish. This is an equivalent or better polish than most standard factory blued finishes , such as Winchester M70 rifles and 1911 pistols.
Custom Polish Finish – We hand polish the metal to a 400-grit finish with a lengthwise hand polish. This is a great custom look for your custom rifle.
Custom Satin Finish – We polish the metal to a 400-grit finish, bead blast with aluminum oxide media and then wire-wheel after blasting and prior to bluing. Another good non-glare finish with a softer sheen than the standard matte finish.
Deluxe Finish – We polish the metal to a 600-1200-grit finish prior to bluing for a high gloss finish. This finish is appropriate on classic Smith & Wesson revolvers and older Sako rifles.
Master Finish – We hand polish the metal to a 2000 grit finish for a mirror-like finish. This is a very high gloss finish reminiscent of Weatherby Mark V rifles and Colt Pythons.
Blue Dip – We run your self-prepared parts through the tanks. You will need to completely prepare your metal prior to sending. See the FAQ section for important information on our dip service requirements.
Slow Rust Blue – We polish the metal to a 400-grit finish, then blue the firearm by using the traditional hand-application method. The result is a durable, traditional slow-rust blue sheen. This finish is necessary on soft-soldered double-barrels and ribs, as soft-solder will not withstand the hot bluing process.
Parkerizing – We use a glass-bead abrasive to blast the metal, then parkerize the metal in the traditional method. The result can be a range of matte greys, from light to dark, depending on the hardness and quality of the metal. This approximates utilitarian military finishes.
Nitre Bluing – We high-polish the metal and hand blue the parts at very high temperatures. This results in a variety of colors, from straw to bright blue. This technique is specifically utilized only on small parts, and serves as a traditional accent.
Cerakote – This is a highly durable ceramic-based coating that is sprayed on and baked. We polish the metal to a 400-grit finish, then bead blast with aluminum oxide prior to Cerakote application.
STORE HOURS: Mon – Sat 9:00 – 5:00
Additional Gunsmith Services
Rebluing is more than restoring the color of your gun. It’s a complete overhaul. We start by completely disassembling the gun. Then the gun is buffed completely to remove any scratches or rust pits and restoring all corners and edges to “factory new” sharpness. Then it’s polished to a bright luster for better appearance. The gun is then boiled in a special solution which removes every trace of dirt, and blued to a deep black color. Finally we reassemble and function test the gun. The result is a gun which in most cases looks “better than new”.
- Reblue most single shot shotguns. $230.00
- Reblue Bolt Action Rifles. $250.00
- Reblue Revolvers/Autos. $245.00
- Reblue Slides/Frames only. $100.00
- Reblue pumps & automatics with aluminum trigger guard (guard cannot be reblued). $240.00
- Reblue pumps & automatics with steel guards (except Win.97). $260.00
- Reblue Win.97 (complete gun). $310.00
- Reblue Win.97, Win. 12, Brown A-5 RECEIVER ONLY. $135.00
- Reblue most double barrel shotguns. $600-775
- Double barrels only. $385–485
- Reblue Barrels Only (single). $125.00
- Receivers and Forearm Metal Only (on doubles). $150.00
- L.C. Smith Complete. P.O.R.
- Reblue Lever Actions. $320.00
- Pistols with octagon barrels (add). $30.00
- Rifles with octagon barrels (add). $75-$110
- Guns with excessive or heavy rust (add). $25.00 – $50.00
- Sandblast receiver top & magazine tube (add). $50–$60
- Sandblast/matte finish complete gun (resembles military parkerizing after bluing). $70–$100
- Sandblast Slides/Frames. $50.00-. $70.00
- Sandblast barrel only. $100
Gun Koting is a new technology that offers great protection against rust, while giving a superb look to your gun. It’s a thin, hard coating that resists most chemicals, provides excellent resistance to wear, plus durability that will surpass a rigorous 500 hour Salt-Spray chamber test.
All Colors are available in a light Matte Finish
Black, Gunmetal Grey, OD Green, Gold, Orange, Red, and Silver
Please refer to our Gun-Koting page for prices and information
HIGH QUALITY DOUBLES
Over the years, we’ve developed & refined a system that faithfully duplicates the original metal finishes on high grade doubles. This includes duplicating the direction of polishing lines and other characteristics that were included in original manufacture. For example: we can take an original Parker, and if it’s not too far gone, we can refinish to a degree that will make a seasoned Parker collector struggle to recognize that it’s been refinished. The finished result often depends on the condition of gun when brought to us. We can’t perform miracles, but do come close. Total price for hand finishing all metal, color case hardening and bluing to original colors. Please call for quote.
Camouflaging and Other Coloring
- Film-Dip Camouflage Most Rifles/Shotguns. $199.00
- Film-Dip Camouflage Pistols. $175.00
- Film-/Dip Camouflage Double-Barrel Shotguns. $250.00
- Case color shotgun receiver. $300.00
- Case color pistol frame. $200.00
- Case color parts (hammer,lever,trigger,etc). P.O.R.
- Nitre-bluing of small parts. $50.00
- Removal of Old Nickel-Plating. $100.00
- Nickel-Plating Pistols. $400 and up
- Gold-Plating Trigger. $60.00
- Gold-Fill Engraving. $40.00
- Browning of Octagon Barrels. $200–$300
- Damascus Barrel Restoration. $375–425
- Parkerizing complete gun. (black color only). $230—$375
Technical Information On Rebluing
-What is rebluing?ﾠ If you bury a piece of metal in the ground, it will rust. As it rusts, it changes color. Every color in the rainbow until the final “rust brown.”ﾠ During the color change, if you remove the metal from ground and quench it in scalding hot water, a reaction takes place. This reaction “chemically stops” the rusting — making it very hard to re-start.
Now. suppose the piece of metal is a gun. If you “chemically stop” the rusting process when the color is turning blue, you would have an attractive blue color AND metal that resists future rusting. That’s what gun bluing is all about. A controlled rust that will give your gun an attractive color that (with care) resists future rusting.
When you have your gun reblued at Ahlman’s, here’s what happens: First, we totally disassemble the gun. Then we hand buff & polish exposed metal parts to remove all traces of old blue and give it a “fresh metal” silver color. During the buffing process, our skilled polisher removes scratches, rust pits and traces of old blue without damaging original lettering. Where possible, heﾠ re-sharpens worn corners to give it a “new gun” appearance.ﾠ It’s then boiled in a serious of solutions which make it “squeeky clean” and highly susceptible to the upcoming “controlled rust” process. The process continues by submersing gun in a mixture of chemicals that are heated to a temperature that rapidly rusts the metal. At the point where the metal turns blue, it is removed and dipped into the scalding hot water which chemically stops the process. The gun is then re-assembled, lubricated and function tested. The result: Your gun now has a brand new appearance that will resist future rust. With reasonable care, it will look this way for generations.
Bluing does NOT add metal to your gun like chrome plating does.ﾠ The durability of bluing depends on the roughness of metal surface.ﾠ If you order our high gloss blue,ﾠ the surface is so smooth that it will wear through during field use faster than our normal bluing.ﾠ If you order the course “Sand Blasted” finish (like military parkerizing), it willﾠ stand up to much heavier wear than normal bluing.
Double barrelsﾠ conventional bluing attacks the solder on doubles and causes damage.ﾠ We ONLY offer Slow-Rust bluing for double barrels.
-We cannot reblueﾠ aluminum, copper, brass, plastic, chrome plated guns,ﾠ receivers that were originally color case hardened, and iron plated guns.
-We prefer not to reblueﾠ guns that are disassembled.ﾠ This is because we function test before and after rebluing to assure functioning remains the same.ﾠ We also wish to avoid blame if parts are lost or gun fails to function after re-assembly.ﾠ We will make an exception if you provide a written inventory of theﾠ parts you are sending.
I would like to hear about your use of this bluing. I got a special Mag tailcap made by DSpeck. I foolishly failed to have it anodized, and I find that painting it properly now will be a big hassle.
I saw Birchwood’s link on another thread, and now am interested in how it might work for me.
- Feb 13, 2004
- Feb 13, 2004
Here’s my experiences.
The product is a light blue, very runny liquid with no noticeable odor.
DANGER: POISON is in petty bold lettering so this might not be a product for some of our more junior members.
As far as I can tell it’s just an ‘instant tarnish’ kind of product.
The instructions call for the AL to be cleaned, degreased, and brightened with steel wool.
After application you’re supposed to wait 1 minute and then rinse with cold water.
I used it in the situation Don shows here (Don’s pics, not mine).
Courtesy of Nascar, I had a similar E1 body with the trimmed lip for Arc compatibility and I used the Aluminum Black to darken the exposed cut.
The milled aluminum was VERY smooth and I applied the AB with a Q-Tip.
I didn’t need to ‘paint’ it on — it just flowed around the smooth aluminum.
The end result was a very dark matte gray.
Not a real good match to the HA-III but (for me) better than the raw aluminum.
(I believe Don’s pic above was done with a black Sharpie.)
Interestingly the color would not extend all the way to the anodized areas and there was still a hairline crack of raw aluminum showing at the edge of the HA-III anodized area.
That area doesn’t get a lot of wear to begin with so I can’t comment on wearability but after 2 months it does still look the same.
I also tried touching up an old black Arc-AAA that had the raw AL showing at the tips of the knurls.
The form factor here allowed for dunking the whole body which is what I did.
After the first dunk I didn’t notice a lot of improvement so I re-dunked – and re-dunked.
My guess is that the AB works fine on raw aluminum but not on itself.
The Arc began to smoke and produced a lot of sulphury smelling fumes.
The liquid bubbled, foamed, turned a metallic black color and took on the same sulphury odor.
The Arc came out a very uneven medium dark black but the surface was crusty similar to actual rust.
The label promises no dimensional change but that must be on raw AL only.
Once the AB is applied, any future applications seem to just build upon themselves in an uneven and unstable crust.
The dark crust would come off on my hands and the color would bleed onto whatever it contacted..
It needed repeat washings before it stopped bleeding and flaking. And by then I was back where I’d started.
I also tried a stripped and bead-blasted CMG Infinity.
Similar to the Arc, the first dunk produced only a light blue/gray.
Repeated dunks produced the same crusty finish as the Arc.
This time after multiple washings and even a not so mild sandpapering the Infinity still shows a pretty dark black in the pits of the bead-blast.
In every test I skipped the cleaning, degreasing, and steel wool which probably made a huge difference but I still feel this is a product for only very smooth milled aluminum.
I need to know how to reblue my .30-30 and 12 gauge.–A.A.
By John Barsness | Published Jan 1, 2000 5:00 AM
If most of the bluing is still there, try Oxpho-Blue from Brownells, 641-623-4000 or www.brownells.com. It’s an instant cold blue, priced under $10 for a 4-ounce bottle, that will touch up worn areas. If most of the bluing is gone, the only real solution is a gunsmith who can hot-blue the whole gun, which will probably cost $100 or a little more.
Q: What do you think of the .44 Magnum in a rifle such as Ruger’s Deerfield carbine for whitetails in the Michigan woods? Ranges would probably 100 yards max. I currently shoot heavier calibers, but one buddy is convinced these .44 rifles are plenty. Do you think there’s any possibility Ruger may chamber the Deerfield in the new .480 Ruger? The extra energy would make me feel better, but the .44 may be enough.–J.B.
A: Rifles chambered for the .44 Magnum work fine on whitetails under 100 yards, but their blunt, slow bullets drop very fast beyond 100 yards, making sure hits very difficult. But if all my shots at deer came under 100 yards, I’d be as happy with a .44 Magnum rifle as any other cartridge. If it’s mechanically feasible and there’s enough demand, I’m sure Ruger will chamber their little rifles for the .480. But I doubt you’d see much difference in the field. Deer are not killed by “foot-pounds of energy,” but by bullets that punch a good-sized hole all the way through the heart-lung cavity. A .44 Magnum does that quite neatly.
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Suppose you have firearms that haven’t received proper maintenance for a long time. In that case, they often experience corrosion, and pitting is considered to be among the most extreme consequences.
If you fail to perform timely repairs, pitting would slowly weaken the weapon’s structural integrity, and stress corrosion cracking is inevitable. That is why if you detect pitting on one of your older guns, it’s essential to take care of it as soon as possible.
Nonetheless, removing pitting on firearms is a task that requires a fair bit of preparation and skill. One mistake is enough to cause irreversible damages.
In this article, we’ll talk about everything you need to know about pitting and how to remove pitting from a gun.
Removing Pitting from a Gun
( Quick Reminder : Don’t have a lot of confidence in your skills and abilities? Then it’s probably best that you send your gun to a workshop and let the professionals take over the pitting removal. There is no need to attempt to remove the pitting on your own, knowing that the final result will not end up being according to your exact liking.)
Gather the Necessary Materials
To effectively eliminate pitting, you need something that allows you to remove the metal surface rust. For such a job, a standard bead blaster or a fine 0000 steel wool should suffice.
If you run into incredibly stubborn rust build-up, consider using solutions like EXO Rust or Naval Jelly.
As you have to work around chemicals and flying particles, put on protective gear for the project’s duration. At the very least, you have to wear a pair of goggles, gloves, and face mask.
Work in a brightly lit, well-ventilated space so you could observe the progress and let the chemical fume escape.
Removing Pitting and Corrosion
Proceed to get rid of every scrap of rust you could see on the surface of the pit using the bead blaster or similar tools. It’s of utmost importance that there is no leftover rust around if you want to refinish it later.
If the pitting is relatively shallow, you could sand away the holes here and then parkerize it. That should provide your gun with a nice appearance.
If the pitting holes are deep, move to step 2 after you are done removing the rust.
Step 2: Patch The Pitting Holes
If the pitting already causes fairly deep holes, you need to patch them by wielding them before applying refinishes is possible. This is the point where you have to stay concentrated.
If you let the temperature pass beyond a sustainable level, some essential components might deform. Therefore, wrap a towel around the holes and use assistant drip water if needed to regulate the temperature.
Instead of patching the pitting holes in quick succession, take some time off to let everything cool down between welds.
Step 3: Sand and Apply Refinish
You have to sand and polish the wielding area in the final step until it seems smooth enough for refinish. Don’t get too aggressive here, or you will end up with a lumpy finish layer.
If you want to outfit your gun with some rust protection, bluing is a great idea. Other protective coatings are also available on the market, so choose one that suits your needs and requirements the most.
After the refinishing process is complete, leave the gun alone for a couple of hours, and that should be it.
What You Need to Know About Pitting and Corrosion
Causes of Pitting and Corrosion
Many things could initiate pitting on guns: surface scratches, finish defects, damages on the protective coating, and shooting corrosive ammunition.
Metal oxidation and lack of maintenance nonetheless play primary roles in the pitting mechanism. After it forms, pitting would steadily penetrate the gunmetal mass and damage the structure.
In most cases, the loss of metal could be seen through the appearance of holes on the surface.
Once the dissolution of metal caused by pitting reaches a certain level, the firearm would crack or outright break apart.
How to Eliminate Pitting
Because guns are repeatedly subjected to recoil, you have to be careful and precise while removing pitting. The last thing you ever want to do is to deform your weapon’s critical components or cause further damage to the already weakened structure.
Overall, you have to get rid of all the rust, patch the holes, sand the patch smooth and apply finishes. If everything goes smoothly, your pitting-covered firearm will look just like new again at the end of the day
How to Avoid Pitting
It’s not too complicated to keep pitting and corrosion away from your firearms. All you have to do is perform regular inspections and maintenance.
After each shooting session, clean every gun you use thoroughly, no matter what type of ammunition you shot with. Please pay attention to your gun cage and ensure that its contents are not exposed to harmful elements.
That is usually more than enough to prevent pitting from forming on your precious weapon for most of the time.
Even if pitting does appear, you should be able to spot and take care of it in the early stage, which minimizes the damage extent.
As a trained gunsmith, I find restoration and refinishing to be very rewarding work. I love the feeling of taking something worn or neglected, hand refinishing, and restoring it to some of its natural glory. Naturally, I spend some of my free time browsing pawn shops and used gun stores for neglected treasures. Recently, I found one; a Used Mauser HSc pistol in 7,65mm Browning for $145.
The big problem with the handgun is that it was sorely neglected. It was rusted to the point that serial numbers and other markings were almost impossible to identify and it was evident that the rust had begun to take deeper hold, pitting the metal. It wasn’t even immediately clear whether it would be possible to restore it or even safe to fire it, but for the price and the uniqueness I decided to take a chance.
Although I do gunsmithing daily, I work for a big company under manufacturing so I must do all my gunsmithing at home in my one-bedroom apartment. All of the equipment I want to use must fit (cleanly and safely) in this environment, so I am always looking for simple methods to improve the efficiency of my work.
While browsing the internet one day, I found a trick that seemed so convenient I had to try it myself. It goes like this: vinegar, being a mild acid, has naturally de-oxidizing properties that will break down rust and make it easier to remove from the surface of metal. Unlike sandpaper or abrasive blasting, this method does not rough up the metal, remove markings, or remove material when done properly. Other chemical strippers such as muriatic acid are much more efficient, but vinegar is cheap, easily available, and very safe to work around. It’s important to note that since bluing is an oxide, vinegar will also remove the bluing. This was actually not a negative for me as I plan to re-do it in a rust blue finish.
I went to Wal-Mart and bought a large tupperware container and a gallon of distilled white vinegar, totalling about $5. The only other tool I used was a stainless steel carding brush I bought from Brownell’s for rust bluing.
First, I detail stripped the gun and bagged the small parts together with other parts of their operating group.
I put the parts in the tupperware container and filled it with the vinegar. Almost immediately, bubbles started forming. I let it sit for 15 minutes at a time and then carded it briskly with the brush.
It took a little over an hour of this soaking and brushing cycle to remove a large portion of the rust. The vinegar slowly went from clear to deep orange as the rust seeped out from the pores of the metal. After I was satisfied that I had achieved all I could, I poured out the vinegar and quickly filled the container with dish soap and boiling water to flush out and neutralize the vinegar (it will, over a long period of time, etch metal if not neutralized). Then I removed the parts, dried them, and added a light coat of oil.
I was very impressed with the results. Almost all of the rust was removed, and it was hard to believe I was looking at the same pistol after only an hour of intermittent scrubbing. The metal actually looked reversed to its in the white state, showing even original machining and grinding marks.
After rust removal, I was even able to see more of the manufacturing marks. The serial number was clear and easy to read, but more exciting were the acceptance stamps located on the gun. The Waffenampt acceptance stance of an eagle with letter “L” indicates it was produced in Nazi-controlled Germany during WWII. Being a smaller caliber handgun, my reading indicates it was likely to be issued to an Officer who would have had it more as a symbol of status than a likely need to use it as a combat arm. It would have been issued with a black leather holster and two magazines serialized to the gun, neither of which were included with the sale. Regardless, it is a very cool piece of history to wonder about and I look forward to restoring it to high-quality bluing. There will still be some minor rust and pitting to remove, but it is already looking much better with this easy trick!
While Hot bluing is our most requested metal finish, we also offer popular options like Parkerizing, Cerakote and Hot Rust Bluing. Parkerizing is a slightly different chemical process that produces a durable, darker gray finish. Cerakote is a highly durable, oven-cured external finish that resists scratching and rusting better than bluing or parkerizing. It is available in a number of colors and sheens. It can applied to all exterior surfaces including wood and plastic, and is a very popular option if you’re looking to really customize your firearm!
This does not include any refinishing of the stock, or any additional modifications to the gun itself. If there are any repairs, modifications or improvements you would like, please let us know beforehand so they can be completed before polishing and bluing. All repairs, modifications, improvements and installation of aftermarket parts is separate from the cost of rebluing or refinishing the metal.
NOTE: The price to reblue or refinish a firearm can vary greatly depending on the type of firearm and condition of the steel. Like most jobs, the amount of prep work (filing and polishing) will determine the outcome of the job. Not all firearms are suitable for rebluing.
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