How to save a dying rose bush

Well, it certainly is in bad shape.

If it is draining correctly, if you keep pouring water in to the top, it will start running out of the bottom. You need to water it thoroughly until water runs freely out of the bottom and then not water it again for awhile, until the top part of the soil is starting to dry out.

I think humidity trays are helpful — basically a saucer with small rocks or large pebbles in the bottom. So the water can run out into the saucer, but the pot will NOT be sitting in it, it will be sitting on the rocks, over the water.

Roses need sunshine! If you don’t have a sunny spot you can put it, then give it a dedicated lamp.

(note, that is a humorous picture, your plant does need to stay in its pot)

Doesn’t need to be anything fancy, just a compact fluorescent bulb (incandescent gives off too much heat).

Not sure what you mean by ” it’s too cold to leave it outside for long.” Roses are exceptionally cold hardy. Look around your neighborhood. Do people have roses planted in their yards? Then roses can tolerate your winters. BUT, if yours has been indoors for awhile, it will need to be hardened off, gradually accustomed to outdoor sun and wind and temperatures. And while it is nearly dead is not the time to try that. But if it recovers and is growing well again, then I would start working on getting it used to being outside.

Re: How to save my dying mini roses

Yep. And when I have a cache/coverpot like your copper pail with a plastic nursery pot inside, first thing I do is raise the inside pot on a riser, because it’s way too easy for the nursery pot to be sitting in the water that drained out and pooled in the coverpot.

I usually use things like empty tuna can or orange juice jug lid, opening-side down . something that sits underneath and raises the Nursery pot by about 1 inch or more. This usually also creates a gap where I can stick a chopstick or bamboo skewer between the coverpot and the nursery pot to see if there is any water. Of course you can also lift the pot out to see, which is now easier to do.

The desert rose (Adenium obesum, USDA plant hardiness zones 11-12), is a perennial succulent with green or brown branches, grayish-green leaves and lovely blooms. If you are having desert rose problems or your desert rose appears to be dying, you can troubleshoot the issues by making some basic observations about the state of the plant.

Desert Rose Basics

The desert rose is a very popular plant. Its narrow flowers are bell-shaped with five petals. These can be pale yellow, white, pink or red, and they can grow to be 2 inches across. According to the Missouri Botanical Garden, the bright, showy flowers appear in the summer on desert rose houseplants, but you may see them at other times of the year when the plants are in the wild. Desert rose is native to the semiarid regions of the Arabian peninsula, southwestern Africa and eastern Africa.

Aside from outdoor growth in USDA zones 11 and 12, it must be grown as an indoor houseplant. It does best when it is grown in full sun, but it may need a break if the sun is directly overhead for much of the day. It will benefit from midday shade, so either provide some of that outdoors or do not leave the plant by a too-sunny window for hours on end. Look for a slightly acidic, well-draining soil mix (a pH of 6.0 is recommended), as this mimics the plant’s natural environment. The container should also have a good number of drainage holes.

As these succulents are native to desert climates, they need to be cared for accordingly. They do not need a lot of water, and fertilizer applications can help the plants to produce more flowers. Fine Gardening explains that proper watering is key to success. Desert roses are very heat tolerant and can survive dry spells. They can be watered on a regular basis during the spring and summer, but the water needs to dry out between waterings.

Adenium Leaf Problems

One of the most common problems for desert rose plants is yellowed leaves. According to Zenyr Garden, this could be from either underwatering or overwatering. Touch the stem and if it feels soft, the plant is probably thirsty. When the stem feels hard, it may be getting too much water. If the problems look serious, the discolored leaves could be a sign of root rot.

Look at a yellowed leaf and follow its stem down to the roots. They may be partially or seriously rotted, and you can cut a small part out and sprinkle on some cinnamon or garden lime powder to repair it. Black spots are more serious, and you will have to dig up the entire plant and cut out the rotted roots. Then, hang it upside down in a shaded area and apply some lime paste or powder. Once it is healed, you can try replanting it.

If the leaves have black and yellow spots, this is probably symptomatic of a fungal disease called anthracnose leaf spot. Overwatering will make this worse, and if it is left untreated, it can kill the plant. The earliest sign is the yellowing of the leaves followed by the black splotches. In most cases, the spots are angular in shape and bordered by leaf veins. Desert roses can also succumb to a white fungal adenium disease, which attacks the leaves and then the entire plant.

Desert Rose Fungus Treatment

In addition to killing the entire plant, desert rose fungal diseases can spread to nearby plants. Most desert rose problems, including fungal diseases, are the result of overwatering and poor drainage. As a rule, they should live in well-draining soil and be watered during their active growing phase when the soil feels dry. When they are dormant, add just enough water to prevent the soil from drying out completely.

If you manage to catch the fungal disease in its early stages, remove the affected leaves and apply a multipurpose fungicide according to the manufacturer’s directions. Also, keep the plant healthy by removing fallen leaves and pruning off any stems that look questionable.

The white fungus can be much worse. It can cause the leaves to stick together and can spread to the stems. Remove the affected parts and treat the desert rose with fungicide.

Desert Rose Insect Pests

Desert roses are favored by aphids, leafcutter bees, spider mites, hoplia beetles, thrips and some other insects. Desert Rose Society explains the signs for which to look and ways to treat them. Aphids like all types of roses and are quite tiny and black or green in color. If there are not too many, you can put on a pair of garden gloves and pick them off. As an alternative, spray them off with your garden hose but do not make the water stream too strong.

Leafcutter bees cut off sections of the leaves to line their nests. Although they damage the plants, they are considered to be a protected species. Spider mites appear when the weather is hot and dry and can be found on the underside of desert rose leaves. Symptoms include fine webbing, eggs, speckling and lightening of leaves, and the mites look like very small dots. Try spraying the hose under the leaves, which will knock the mites off the plant.

You may also see hoplia beetles on your desert roses in the spring. They show up when the roses start blooming and go after the blossoms. You can pick them off by hand and put them in a water-filled, sealed container. Insecticidal oils and soaps can control many of the insects that plague desert rose plants. When they do not prove to be effective, you will have to resort to chemical sprays; always wear protective clothing and a mask when using them.

Other Desert Rose Problems

Powdery mildew is another kind of fungus that can appear on desert roses. If you see blisterlike marks on the upper leaf surfaces, you will want to take immediate action. Otherwise, it leads to distorted growth and a white powdery-looking substance on the leaves, stems and buds. This tends to spread more often during cool, damp nights and warm days.

Keep the plants separate from other ones and the planting area clean and free from debris. Regular pruning will also help. Oddly enough, this kind of fungus does not like water, so you can spray the plant with water. Early treatment with a fungicide is best but always remember to follow the instructions on the label.

Last and not least, desert rose plants are poisonous. Plant Care Today says they are considered to be dangerously toxic to humans, dogs, cats and horses. In fact, its milky sap was historically used in poison arrows that were used for hunting. As such, you will need to take proper precautions if you have a desert rose plant.

How to save a dying rose bush

After a bush is moved, it may show signs of transplant shock, such as dead leaves. Transplant shock does not mean the bush will die, but it is in serious danger of dying. Short-term and long-term measures can save the bush, even after its leaves have died. The effects of transplant shock can last one year or longer.

Signs of Transplant Shock

The first sign that a transplanted bush suffers from transplant shock is leaf scorch. The leaves take on a yellow hue on their outer edges and along their veins. Other signs of transplant shock include leaf curl, wilting leaves and leaves falling to the ground. New leaves may be smaller than the leaves that grew prior to the transplant. The plant’s other growth may be stunted, too. The symptoms occur because the bush suffers from a lack of nutrients and water due to the loss of the fine hairs in its root system that supplied those necessary elements. The fine root strands often are broken off when a plant is moved.

Treatment Methods

Before you give up the bush for dead, use a weak sugar solution, containing 3/4 cup of sugar mixed with 1 gallon of water, to treat the bush once each week. The solution is a boost to the plant’s metabolism so it can convert sunlight to energy and absorb water and nutrients. Keep the soil around the plant moist but not saturated. Select a spot about 2 to 3 inches from the bush’s main stem, and stick your index finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil is dry, your plant needs water. Avoid using fertilizer because it will cause the bush to put on new top growth before its root system is capable of supporting that growth.

Side Effects

A bush is more susceptible than normal to pest infestations and diseases while it suffers from transplant shock. Remove its dead leaves and damaged stems, and inspect its other leaves and stems for signs of insect damage and diseases. If you find damaging insects, a solution containing 1/4 cup of regular strength liquid dish soap mixed with 1 gallon of distilled water can be used as a treatment. That solution needs to be applied until all parts of the bush drip with it, and it can be reapplied every two weeks to keep pests away.

Prevention Measures

The next time you want to transplant a bush, taking precautions can protect it from transplant shock. Moving the bush on a cool, overcast day gives the transplant relief from heat. Water that bush well the day before transplanting. Keeping as many of the bush’s roots, including the small branching roots, as possible attached to the bush increases the chances of a successful transplant. The bush’s new planting hole should be large enough for you to spread the plant’s root ball in it. Also, the hole should be only deep enough to allow the bush to be planted at the same depth at which it grew in its previous site so the roots get enough oxygen and water. Fill the space around the newly planted bush with the soil you removed to create the new planting hole.

  • Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service: Transplant Shock of Trees and Shrubs
  • 10 Tips for Minimizing Transplant Shock
  • University of Illinois Extension: Transplant Shock?
  • Iowa State University Extension: Wash Away Houseplant Pests with Insecticidal Soap

Julie Richards is a freelance writer from Ohio. She has been writing poetry and short stories for over 30 years, and published a variety of e-books and articles on gardening, small business and farming. She is currently enrolled at Kent State University completing her bachelor's degree in English.

Transplant roses during their dormant period. In late fall, winter and early spring, roses stop blooming and also grow at a much slower rate than in warmer weather. Old canes die off and the plant rests, making this the best time for transplanting. Avoid transplanting close to hard frost dates or during summer heat. Rose roots, while visibly sturdy, send out threadlike feeder roots than are highly sensitive to heat and cold. Be patient. Plant shock can last for several weeks. Work to maintain even temperatures and moisture for your new bush. Regular monitoring is your best assurance against shock damage.

Transplanting roses takes a little planning to avoid shock, which can wilt leaves and, in extreme cases, effect eventual healthy growth. For successful planting, avoid common stresses to roses: heat or cold, planting during high-growth periods, poor soil, and inadequate or excessive water. While healthy roses may survive all of these stresses, you can maximize growth by providing a nonstressful transition to a new location. If shock occurs in spite of your planning, there are a number of measures you can take to support recovery.

Dig a hole twice the depth and circumference of the rose root cluster. Remove any packaging (including plant-it-all cardboard) to determine the exact size of the roots, which may have been balled up or crushed in the container. Gently loosen soil around roots and place the rosebush in a bucket of water while you prepare the hole for transplant. Do not leave the roots to soak for more than an hour or so, to prevent shock. Line the hole with peat moss or other compost, leaving room for roots and watering thoroughly. Move rosebush into the ground and replace soil. Tamp down soil gently with your foot and water again.

  • Transplanting roses takes a little planning to avoid shock, which can wilt leaves and, in extreme cases, effect eventual healthy growth.
  • Gently loosen soil around roots and place the rosebush in a bucket of water while you prepare the hole for transplant.

Prune back all canes to reduce stress if your rose shows signs of wilting or dieback. Some growers routinely cut all canes back to 1 foot or less, leaving the basic framework of branches that determine the shape of the bush. Others address shock by cutting back to 3 main canes, 3 inches long. Shock can be caused by the weight of branches pulling on roots; reducing that stress can lessen symptoms of shock.

Insulate new transplants against sudden temperature changes, which can also send a bush into shock. Covering the cut-back crown with peat moss or shredded bark mulch insulates branches and roots from sudden hot and cold spikes. Providing an improvised milk jug hot cap or a burlap/green stake surround can protect your bush from sudden weather changes, excessive sun and drying winds.

  • Prune back all canes to reduce stress if your rose shows signs of wilting or dieback.
  • Providing an improvised milk jug hot cap or a burlap/green stake surround can protect your bush from sudden weather changes, excessive sun and drying winds.

Maintain regular watering. While roots are establishing, moist soil is essential. Allow your bush three to four weeks between planting and fertilizing. While it is tempting to boost nutrition for a shocked plant, the danger of fertilizer burns to roots is too risky.

You say it gets watered daily by a misting system. It would seem to me that the leaves would be getting wet, but perhaps not the roots. When you transplant a shrub from container to ground, it is necessary for the plant’s root system to receive adequate water and that is generally achieved by either regular rainfall or hand watering/irrigation that provides about 1 inch of water a week.

You say there are trees nearby, and they are notorious for using up as much water as is available to them. They may be soaking up what water is being put down for your shrub. I would recommend moving a bit of soil around your shrub and checking it for moisture 3 to 4 inches below the surface.. It is also possible that the mister is wetting the leaves and they are scalding in the sun.

It would be very useful if you could post pictures of the plant, its’ surrounding plantings and a close-up of the leaves themselves.

Should I cut back any dead branches or just remove the dead leaves?? I will try to post pictures tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.

[Last edited by FayS – Jun 25, 2015 9:27 PM (+)]
| Quote | Post #888816 (6)

How to save a dying rose bush

The original poster has not posted back on this site since June 2015 so she probably won’t be replying unless she happens to visit again.

William Baffin rose is a modern, bush-like rose. It’s very tough and cold hardy, suitable for growing in cold regions (USDA zones 3 through 9) where other roses cannot survive. Although it’s a shrub rose, the long arching canes make it suitable as a climber. William Baffin rose plants typically grow 8 to 12 feet tall. The blooms grow in clusters and boast a pink color, with a small bit of white in the center. After planting this rose, it is important to follow up with care to prolong the life of the plant and create bright, beautiful blooms.

Grow William Baffin roses in well-drained soil in the full sun. The plants need at least six to eight hours of sunlight daily, preferably in the morning. Add pea gravel or organic matter to the soil if it doesn’t drain well.

  • William Baffin rose is a modern, bush-like rose.
  • It’s very tough and cold hardy, suitable for growing in cold regions (USDA zones 3 through 9) where other roses cannot survive.

Water the roses when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry. Give it a deep watering, letting the water saturate a foot deep. While overhead sprinkling is easy, the roses will be healthier if you don’t wet the leaves. Water in the morning so the leaves can dry by the evening.

Feed William Baffin roses with a blend similar to 5-10-5 or 4-12-4 in the spring. You also can use other garden solutions such as 8-8-8 or 12-12-12. Give each bush 1/4 cup and scratch it into the soil surface. Water afterward to help it get to the roots. Fertilize every six weeks.

  • Water the roses when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry.
  • Water in the morning so the leaves can dry by the evening.

Spread 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the base of each plant. Keep it 6 inches away from the canes. Use wood bark. aged sawdust or other organic materials. Placing a few sheets of newspaper under the mulch increases the effects of mulching. Don’t place mulch against the stem; keep it about 6 inches away.

Remove dead, damaged or weak canes in the spring. Cut off branches that cross or rub each other to improve circulation. Take off suckers that grow from the rootstock because they steal nutrients from the rest of the plant.

  • Spread 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the base of each plant.

Dead head William Baffin roses twice a week as the blooms fade and die. Cut the blooms back to an outward-facing five-leaflet leaf at the top of the plant.

How to save a dying rose bush

In any gardener’s flower bed, plants can be subject to damage. Whether it be a misplaced garden spade that shears a root ball, a lawn mower running in the wrong place, or an errant dog that digs in the garden, damage to plants happen and problems with peony plants are no exception. When they happen to a peony plant, fixing damaged peonies may be even more frustrating because of their picky nature.

So then how do you go about recovering peony plants once they have been damaged? Keep reading to find out how to fix peony damage.

Fixing Damaged Peonies

Peony plants are notoriously finicky, so it is not like you can just plant another one. It may be years before a newly planted peony plant will bloom. So you are at best trying to save a peony plant after it has succumbed to peony damage.

When recovering peony plants the first thing to check is the stalks of the plant. Remove any stalks from the plant where the stem is damaged. These can be thrown away or composted. The stalks of a peony plant cannot be rooted, so you cannot use them to grow a new plant. Any stalks that only have leaf damage can be left intact on the plant.

If all the stalks need to be removed or were removed as a result of the incident, do not panic. While your peony plant will be affected by this, it does not mean that the plant cannot recover from it.

After you have assessed and corrected any problems with the stalks on the peony plant, you will need to check the tubers. Peony plants grow from tubers and these tubers are what you need to be worried about. As long as the tubers are not terribly mangled, they will recover. If any tubers have been dislodged from the soil, rebury them. Make sure that you do not bury them too deeply, however, as peony tubers need to be near the surface. As long as the tubers are replanted correctly, they should heal themselves and will recover fully for the next year.

The only major peony damage that may occur is that you may need to wait a year or two for the plant to bloom again. Just because it recovers fully does not mean that it will forgive you for letting peony problems like this happen in the first place.

For all of their pickiness and fickleness, peonies are actually very resilient. If your peony plants have been damaged in some accident, chances are that they will recover, so fixing damaged peonies shouldn’t be a source of stress.

Problems with peony plants happen but learning how to fix peony damage once it occurs will make recovering peony plants an easy task.

Water the rose. Water your rose bush before sunrise or after sunset.

How to save a dying rose bush

My Rose Bush Looks Like It S Dying Help Please

How to save a dying rose bush

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How To Revive Your Dying Plants In 5 Easy Steps

Prune and pot rose.

How to save a dying rose bush

How to save a dying rose plant.

How to save a dying rose bush mulching and watering your rose bush cover the area around your bush with 12 inches 2551 cm of mulch.
Any time of the year cut out all diseased canes or branches that can infect rest of the bush and prune out all dead broken or crossing canes.
Open up the center of the bush by cutting out any canes growing straight up in the middle.

Clear away the dead debris from around the base of the rose bush.
Sprinkle rose fertilizer make sure it is specifically for roses around the base.
Always cut above bud eyes and at a 45 degree angle.

Try to repot once a year in the fall just before the plant becomes dormant.
Improve exposure to sunlight and air circulation by cutting away crisscrossing canes and some of the branches in the middle of the bush.
Prune the dying rose bush back drastically to improve its health and vitality.

You will need a shovel potting soil a pot large enough for the rose.
Lets get started with your tools.
Sterilize your shears with rubbing alcohol.

Trim all old and dead branches from the bush using pruning sheers.
Lay down a cardboard mulch if you have weed problems.
Dig up the rose bush.

Dig over the area you want to plant it in preferably working in some composted manure as you go then transfer the rose into a hole in the middle of the area youve dug over and water in well.
Water your rose bush when the soil gets dry.
How to save a dying rose bush step 1.

Where to place your potted rose for recovery.
Revive a dying rose the rose plant is yet not dead and so can be revived.
How to bring a rose plant back to life.

However repotting during the growing season can save your plant if its starting to die.
Cut away old and diseased canes at the base.