It’s surprisingly easy.
Maybe it’s a return to natural essentials, but bar soaps have come a long way since the heavy, overly fragrant ones your mother once kept next to her sink. Today, homemade soaps can be crafted with the same natural, skin-nourishing ingredients as your go-to store-bought varieties.
But does the art of soapmaking feel daunting? Enter the melt and pour method. While making soap from scratch can be a process, molding these luminous little bars is as easy as following a simple recipe. A clear melted soap base is colored, scented, and shaped as you wish, then they’re ready to be used at home or given as gifts. Melt and pour is a great way for beginners to wade into the sudsy world of soap-making and spa crafts.
Why Melt and Pour Soap?
The cold process method of soap-making (a more traditional method) is done by combining oils and lye. This causes a chemical reaction called saponification. The benefit of melt and pour soap is that the soap base has already gone through that process, meaning you don’t have to handle lye and there’s no need to cure the soap-it’s ready to use as soon as it’s cooled and hardened. As such, this soapmaking method is more family-friendly, as well.
The base for this melt and pour soap is glycerin ($17.19, amazon.com), which is a natural byproduct of the saponification process. In it, the glycerin is distilled into a clear bar of soap that can be melted down, and customized with colors and scents to suit your personal tastes. These bases often contain super-nourishing components like shea butter, argan oil, or olive oil to enrich the skin.
Next, you’ll need essential oils. These can be added to homemade soap for natural fragrance. Depending on personal preference, use anywhere from a few droplets to a few teaspoons for a noticeable, long-lasting scent. For a dash of natural color, try clays and botanicals such as French green clay ($9.95 for 8 ounces, amazon.com), rose kaolin clay, or indigo powder. Be sure to test the ingredients of your homemade soaps on a small area of your skin first (the inside of your elbow, for example) to make sure that you are not allergic. It’s important that soap-making ingredients are measured precisely in order to craft a balanced bar of soap, so you’ll need to have a digital scale ($49.95, williams-sonoma.com). All ingredients should be measured by weight rather than volume, since inconsistent measurements will yield unreliable results. Next up is a heat-proof container—always use glass instead of metal to heat, mix, and stir ingredients. Spoons and spatulas work well for mixing, while a bench scraper ($9.95, williams-sonoma.com) or serrated knife will cut your homemade soap into smaller portions.
As for a soap mold, use muffin tins, loaf pans, boxes, and cartons, many of which are likely already in your kitchen. Silicone molds for baking work well since you can bend them out of shape to pop out soap shapes.
How to Make Melt and Pour Soap
An important note: This is a base recipe, only. The step-by-step instructions of individual projects may vary. Before you begin, assemble your ingredients. If needed, prepare safety gear such as goggles, gloves, and long sleeves, and be sure to cover your work surface with newspaper.
Start by weighing the glycerin soap base in a heatproof container, chopping into smaller pieces with a cutting tool, if needed. Then, heat glycerin in a microwave on high, stirring at 15-second intervals, until it’s completely melted. Add any extra ingredients—such as essential oils or color additives-stirring to combine. Next, carefully, pour the melted soap into mold. Try not to splash the soap or get too many bubbles. (Note: If you do get bubbles in the soap, lightly spray the top of bar soaps with rubbing alcohol.) Let cool and harden completely (anywhere from a few hours up to overnight) before popping from the mold.
August 27, 2018 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap
Melt and pour soap is a great option for beginners. All you have to do is melt the premade base, customize it with your favorite colors and scents, and pour into a mold. Once you get the hang of the process, you can experiment with advanced techniques like layers and swirls.
Cold process soap is made by combining oils and sodium hydroxide lye . That causes a chemical reaction called saponification – learn more here . Melt and pour soap has already gone through that process. That means you don’t have to handle lye, you can focus on the design, and you don’t have to cure the soap – it’s ready to use as soon as it’s cool and hard. It’s great for kids as well.
Below you’ll find melt and pour terms, tips, and tutorials.
Soap base: There are several options to choose from when selecting a base. Clear and White Melt and Pour is a good place to start. They’re simple, cleansing, and ready to customize. The clear base will have more bright colors, while the white will have more pastel colors. You can also try bases with additives like shea butter, goat milk, or aloe vera. Find all the bases here , and learn more about them in this blog post .
Fragrance: You can scent your soap with fragrance oils or essential oils. A general usage rate is about 0.3 oz. of scent per pound of soap. Find light, medium, and strong recommendations with the Fragrance Calculator. It’s important to use skin-safe scents like the ones from Bramble Berry. Potpourri, craft, or candle fragrances may not be skin safe or tested in soap. Be sure to check with the manufacturer before use.
Glycerin: Glycerin is a natural byproduct of the saponification process. It’s one of the reasons handmade soap feels so amazing – it draws moisture to the skin and keeps it hydrated. Additional glycerin is added during the melt and pour manufacturing process to make it easy to work with. It can also cause the soap to sweat in humid climates, so make sure to wrap your bars and keep them in a cool, dry place. Learn more in the Explaining and Preventing Glycerin Dew post.
Molds: You need to use a mold that can withstand higher temperatures so it doesn’t melt when you pour in hot soap. You also want it to be flexible so it’s easy to unmold the bars. We love silicone and plastic molds for melt and pour, you can find those here.
Colorants: There are plenty of options for coloring melt and pour soap. Micas and color blocks are easy to use and they look great in the finished bars. Learn more about how to work with our skin-safe soap colorants in this post . We don’t recommend options like food coloring or crayons because they haven’t been tested or approved for use in soap. They tend to morph, fade, or bleed.
Safety: Soap bases start to melt around 120F. Use heat-safe tools and handle with care – melted soap can hurt if dripped or splashed on skin. When crafting with children, they should be old enough to hold their own containers and an adult should be present at all times.
This post was updated in August 2018. Find the layered soap recipe here .
February 3, 2021 By // by Hannah 6 Comments
Melt and pour soap base makes creating your own customized soap bars an extremely easy task. If you’ve never made bar soap before, melt and pour is a great way to get started without having to deal with all of the hazards associated with lye. Since melt and pour soap has already been through the saponification process (the chemical reaction that makes lye safe for skin) it cures in hours instead of 4-6 weeks. With melt and pour soap, all of the hard work is already done for you. You literally melt it and pour it into a mold. That said, there are still recommendations and steps to follow to make sure that your soap bars come out as planned. Here are my recommendations for melt and pour soap making for beginners.
How to make bar soap using melt and pour soap base
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Step 1. Choose a melt and pour soap base
There are a variety of melt and pour soap base options available. Goat’s milk is my favorite because I love the way it lathers and moisturizes. I also like to use the Clear Glycerin because it makes a transparent soap which can look very cool.
Here are some popular melt and pour soap base options:
Step 2. Choose a Soap Mold
When it comes to a soap mold, the two most important things to keep in mind are that it can withstand the heat of the melted soap base and it’s flexible so that the soap can be removed without damage once cured. Silicone molds are perfect for soap making. There are a variety of options to choose from.
*Emerging Green provided me with a soap making kit however all opinions are 100% my own
Rectangular loaf molds like the one shown below are great for making multiple soap bars that you can cut to any size. Many kits come with a soap cutter that will ensure that each bar is the same size but if you only have a rectangular loaf mold you can always just cut it with a knife.
Individual bar soap molds:
There are also a variety of silicone molds that are designed to make a specific size and shape of soap bar. I often use the one shown below which makes a simple rectangular bar of soap.
There are also countless fun designs like the bee and hive pattern which is one of my favorites (shown below).
Step 3. Melt the melt and pour soap base
First, be sure to cut your soap base into smaller chunks before you microwave it. It will help the soap base to melt more evenly and quickly.
While it ultimately depends on the product that you are using and your microwave, I typically microwave mine for 90 seconds to 120 seconds in 30 second intervals. After each 30 seconds I stir the soap base and check to see if there are still chunks. it’s possible to burn the melt and pour base if it is heated too long so as soon as the soap base chunks are completely melted stop microwaving!
Step 4. Add fragrance
You can customize your melt and pour soap after it is melted base by adding fragrance oils or essential oils. Keep in mind that the fragrance must be skin safe! If you aren’t sure how much fragrance to add to your soap base, a good rule of thumb is 0.3 oz of fragrance per pound of melt and pour soap base.
Step 5. Add Colorant
Similar to the fragrance, once he soap base is melted, you can add color.
My favorite part of soap making is experimenting with different colors. Since soap is used on the skin it’s important to choose a skin safe colorant. Micas and skin safe liquid coloring are both great options.
A white soap base such as goat’s milk will create more of a pastel color when you add a colorant. A clear soap base like glycerin will allow for brighter colors. I recommend to start small and add very little powder or liquid dye. Stir it into the melted soap base and if it isn’t as vibrant as you want just add a little more!
If you are using a mold with individual soap compartments, you can really play around with different colors.
When you use a rectangular loaf mold you can make a solid color bar soap or layer multiple colors as your pour to get a striped effect. Just be sure to allow each layer to properly set before pouring the next layer. It is also recommended that you spray isopropyl alcohol between layers.
Below is a brick of soap that I made using three mica powder colors. I purposely did not let each layer set before pouring the next so that I could get a slight swirl in each bar after I cut the soap.
How long does it take for melt and pour soap to cure?
Melt and pour soap has already gone through the curing process so you won’t need to handle lye. It will be ready to remove from the mold once it is cool and hard which typically only takes about 2-4 hours.
Check out some melt and pour soap projects:
- Painted soap bars
- Owl soap bars
- Floral soap bars
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I hope that you are inspired to make your own soap bars. I love to give mine as gifts and of course use them daily in my home as well.
Scrub Up With Your Favorite Cuppa – Vanilla Coffee Soap
Are you an enthusiastic coffee drinker? Or do you know someone who can’t start the day without a cup of coffee? Of course, you do!
I don’t know what it is about those beans, it can’t be the taste if you ask me. I drink my coffee like I eat pie – with a glass of milk and sugar sprinkled on top.
But the aroma, oh the rich, deep aroma and the quick burst of energy after is something I can get enthusiastic about!
Here in the Midwest, where we have more cold months than hot, starting the day with a hot beverage in hand is a bit of a necessity. And when you live in the country a drive to a coffee shop is many miles away. So, great tasting coffee is a treat I only encounter a few times a month. But, I found a way to soak up all the comforts of a great cuppa with a homemade soap recipe for vanilla coffee soap, anyone can make!
This post contains some affiliate links for your convenience, read full disclosure policy.
How Do You Make Coffee Soap?
Incorporating coffee into soap is easier than you might think. In fact, all you need is three ingredients! How’s that for easy?
It starts with a melt and pour soap base that has already gone through the saponification process, which is much easier than working with active lye. If this is your first time making soap, make sure you check out the beginner’s guide, explaining the process of saponification and melt and pour soap bases.
For this soap recipe, I chose to use shea butter soap base for an effortless layered effect. Unlike a goat milk soap base that allows ingredients to float to the top or have the look of being suspended in movement, ingredients typically sink to the bottom in shea butter melt and pour soap bases. Which is exactly what I wanted to happen for this coffee soap recipe!
Can you put coffee grounds in soap?
You can see in the photo above the bottom of soap has a rich, dark layer of coffee grounds. And individual coffee grounds are sparsely spread throughout. Not only do they add a pleasing layered decoration to the soap but they also give this homemade soap a warm latte color without any added soap coloring.
So, after making a pot of coffee, pour the grounds onto a towel and pat dry to prepare for use in soap. Not only will used coffee grounds add a handcrafted layered appearance and rich color to soap, but they also grasp the scent of freshly brewed coffee without the need for soap fragrance. Not to mention, adding coffee grounds to soap has many benefits for the skin.
There’s one thing to point out, according to the Soap Queen, used coffee grounds are best for both melt and pour soap and cold process soap alike. From what I understand, fresh coffee grounds can bleed through soap. While bleeding doesn’t hurt soap like it does our bodies, it can skew your intended look for the soap.
4 Gossip Worthy Coffee Soap Benefits:
Truth be told coffee soap benefits are quite numerous. Coffee can give your skin a good jolt, just like it does for you from your cup every morning. Here are four reasons why adding coffee soap to your skincare routine is worth gossiping or who I’m kidding – bragging about!
1. Coffee is anti-inflammatory which can help reduce water retention, making skin look less puffy and improve circulation. Both of which are good for reducing the appearance of cellulite or under-eye bags. And the natural caffeine found in coffee can be very soothing to the skin.
2. Packed full of antioxidants, coffee contains a great source of anti-aging nutrients for skincare. Which is one reason why I use it my DIY puffy eye cream.
3. Speaking of age-fighting abilities, coffee is also a natural astringent like witch hazel. Astringents tighten and firm skin.
4. Using coffee grounds in this soap recipe can create an exfoliating bath soap, like my popular pink grapefruit exfoliating soap. The coffee grounds provide gentle exfoliation to remove dead skin cells, revealing softer, smoother skin.
All together, nutrient-packed coffee and shea butter in this melt and pour soap recipe can rejuvenate your skin for a fresh bright-eyed-and-bushy-tailed appearance.
Vanilla Coffee Soap Recipe:
¼ cup used coffee grounds
How to Make Vanilla Coffee Soap:
1. Prepare a square silicone soap mold by cleaning, drying, and spritzing with rubbing alcohol. Then carefully slice 1 pound of shea butter soap base into cubes that are approximately ½” to 1” in size using a soap knife.
2. Scoop the sliced shea butter soap base into a large glass measuring cup for safe melting and easy pouring. Place it in the microwave and melt the soap base in 30 seconds intervals, stirring intermittently to avoid burning.
3. Promptly remove the melted soap base from the microwave and add 3 tablespoons of vanilla extract. Stir together using a non-stick heat resistant spatula. Then add a ¼ cup of used coffee grounds to the soap mixture. Stir well to incorporate into soap.
4. Working quickly, pour the vanilla coffee soap into the prepared square silicone mold before the soap begins to harden. Carefully distribute evenly between 4 to 5 sections, avoiding overflow.
5. If needed, spritz with rubbing alcohol to remove bubbles in the soap. Allow coffee soap to cool in the mold for one to two hours or until solid before removing.
Like most people just getting into soap making, I started with melt and pour soap bases. After my first few batches I found myself asking the same question most people ask – how can I increase the lather?
Because melt and pour soap has already completed its saponification process the options to increase soap lather are limited. There are a few options that include adding small amounts of liquid glycerin, coconut oil, sugar, and castor oil. A guaranteed method is to purchase high-lather glycerin soap base. It has detergents added to make big bubbles and enhance lather.
Use High-Lather Melt and Pour Soap
Most melt and pour manufacturers have a line of high-lather soap bases that you can purchase. The only caveat is they typically contain artificial detergents that enhance bubble size.
Such products are sometimes called “premium soap bases” and will have an identifier such as this to describe lathering properties:
Following is a link to one such manufacturer’s page listing premium melt & pour soap bases.
Increased Lather Through Application Method
If you want to help people get the most lather out of existing bars of soap, suggest they apply the soap to a washcloth or luffa instead of directly from the bar to their skin.
The friction created while rubbing the soap into the cloth or luffa will help generate a lather with larger bubbles.
Try this you self when washing your hands with any soap. Wash once with the soap directly and a second time with a washcloth. The difference in lather is amazing!
Increased Lather Through Additives
Each of the above-mentioned additive methods work to a different degree but also change the properties of the soap, along with its shelf life. Because the melt and pour base has already fully saponified anything you add never becomes “soap”. It simply becomes part of the bar.
For fats and oils to become soap they must go through something called the saponification process. This is a natural bio-chemical reaction between in which the lye solution and fats combine to make salts of fatty acids. This converts the fats and eliminates the lye. Anything added AFTER this process is not soap. It is a bar additive.
While you can try any of these methods to add lather to melt and pour soap, please understand they will add only minor noticeable differences – if any – to the typical user. Some, however, will enhance the creaminess of the lather so it is noticeable by most people. Any of the oil updates will usually accomplish this.
Increase Lather with Sugar
One of the most common tricks you will find to increase lather is to add sugar, or red wine that is high in sugar. This does work if the sugar is added in small amounts such as one teaspoon per pound of soap. However, you should note that adding sugar can also reduce the shelf life from one to two years, to three to six months. It is worth it if you plan to use the soap soon or want to make a light sugar scrub bar with sugar as the exfoliant.
By the way, the sugar granules can help produce larger bubbles due to the friction created when the soap is being applied.
More Glycerin for More Lather
Melt and pour soap is also called “glycerin soap” because it has additional vegetable glycerin to make it easier to work with. This is combined with alcohols to help the soap stabilize for remelting and to add fluidity for pouring and capturing details in intricate molds.
You can add even more glycerin to MP soap to increase lather. This, however, should be in very small amounts of since it already has so much. One to one and a half teaspoons per pound of soap base is plenty.
Add Lather with Coconut Oil
Adding two to three tablespoons of coconut oil per pound of melt and pour soap base can help increase the creaminess of the lather. The bubbles are tiny, but act to help combine and build a foundation for the bubbles that are already part of the natural lather process.
The results will vary based on the type of glycerin soap base you are using. If it is a coconut oil base, there will be little visible improvement. If, however, it is goat milk or shea butter, I have found the added creaminess to enhance the lathering properties noticeably.
Castor Oil for Lather Volume
Adding 1 tablespoon of castor oil per pound of glycerin soap base can help add volume to the lather. It does not make larger bubbles. It simply “puffs up” the available lather a tiny bit. But it really is a minor change that may people would not notice.
The oil never converts to soap. It stays oil. That means if people add too much they might get orange spots on their soap (DOS or Dreaded Orange Spots if the oil eventually turns).
Add in Clays
Adding clays such as kaolin, bentonite, and rose clay can help build lather but it is kind of a trick. It has to do with the added friction of the clay particulates interacting with the surface tension of the bubbles. Still though, it helps produce a creamy lather and bentonite especially adds “slip” to shaving soap. This helps reduce razor burn.
Combine Shaving MP Soap Bases
Another option that I use as a quick fix is to add in small amounts of “Stephenson’s Melt and Pour Shaving Soap Base”. It lathers like crazy and is translucent, so it blends well with any clear or opaque melt and pour soap base. But it is EXTREMELY slippery. I only add about 10% of this with 90% of the other MP base to keep the bar from slipping out of users’ hands.
If you choose to add some shave soap to your MP batch, keep in mind that it is a “whip” that generates lather via a shave brush or washcloth. The lather when used in a traditional bar of soap is not instantaneous, but once the lathering process begins it takes off quickly.
These are my top tips for adding lather to melt and pour soap. Again, to get the best results you should consider buying high-lather soap – if you are okay with the detergents. If not, adding in some Stephens’s shave soap base is a good alternative.
Here is another article that you may like about the advantages of melt and pour soap. It is also on this website. It is short but has some good information for any budding melt and pour soap making enthusiast.
Posted on Published: January 28, 2021 – Last updated: July 28, 2021 Categories DIY, Natural Beauty
I have to admit, I didn’t even know there was such a thing as goats milk melt and pour soap base until recently.
But once I found out how easy it is to make homemade soaps, I quickly fell in love with these goat milk soap recipes!
It’s so easy to use this pre-made soap base. Literally, just melt and pour!
These solid lotion bars are also super easy to make, too. And make great gifts!
You can fool all of your friends and family into thinking that you spent a lot of time making a gift. Or just make really gorgeous soaps that you love to keep on display in your bathroom or by your kitchen sink.
Making your own melt and pour soap takes very little time. Waiting for your soap to cure, or dry, actually is the most time consuming aspect of soap making.
Here are five goats milk melt and pour soap recipes. If you’re not familiar with using the ready-made soap base, see my FAQs section below.
🐐 For all recipes, I recommend this goats milk soap base made in the USA. 🐐
Jasmine Flower Goats Milk Soap
This melt and pour jasmine soap combines dried jasmine flowers and jasmine oil to create a beautiful bar of soap that will look gorgeous on your bathroom vanity. Plus, this strong scented soap also provides fragrance to your room. This is the perfect homemade soap recipe to follow if you’re looking for handmade gift ideas too.
Yield: 4 soap bars using the mold below
- 1 pound Goat’s Milk Melt and Pour Soap Base
- 25 drops Jasmine Essential Oil
- Dried Jasmine flowers (I used the jasmine flowers out of this multi-pack dried flower kit. You could use the other flowers to make other types of soaps.)
- 2 inch square soap mold (This is the soap mold I used for this recipe. I used a different one for the recipes below.)
- Small spray bottle with rubbing alcohol (optional)
- Cut soap into 1 inch squares and place into microwave safe container.
- Heat soap in microwave on high for 30 seconds, remove and stir. If soap is not completely melted, heat for 10 second intervals, stirring in between. It is very important to melt in small bursts of heat, rather than one long continuous time.
- Remove from microwave and add essential oil. Stir well.
- Pour into soap mold.
- Sprinkle top of soap filled molds with dried Jasmine flowers.
- Spray with rubbing alcohol to help reduce bubbles (optional).
- Let soap set for 1-2 hours without disturbing the mold.
- Remove from the mold and store in an airtight container to preserve the scent.
Orange Chia Goats Milk Soap
This is certainly a different type of soap! And it’s uniqueness will be what you love about this recipe. Chia seeds are a great exfoliant for the skin. Plus, the seeds just look pretty!
Yield: 8 soap bars
- 2 lbs. goats milk soap base
- ½ cup chia seeds
- 25 drops orange essential oil
- Silicone molds
- In a heavy saucepan melt the soap base down to liquid on medium heat. Do not boil!
- Remove from the heat and mix in chia seeds and essential oils. Stir until all of the seeds are coated and in the soap base.
- Pour into the molds and set aside to set overnight.
Another great exfoliating soap is my coffee soap melt and pour recipe using a shea butter soap base.
More Goats Milk Soap Recipes
I have even more recipes in separate blog posts, including:
FAQs for Making Goats Milk Soap
Does homemade soap expire?
In short, the answer is no, homemade soap does not expire. Homemade soap will last for quite a long time, as long as it is not used.
I like to store my homemade soap in something air-tight, such as a plastic wrap alternative, to keep the fragrance strong until you use it.
Keep in mind, if you use food-based products in your homemade soaps, those ingredients could start to spoil long before the actual soap base would have a problem.
How long does melt and pour soap last?
One you use your soap, you can count on melt and pour soap to last up to 4-6 weeks, depending on how often it is used.
Goat’s milk is a softer soap, and so I suggest that you do your best to keep the soap dry after use. Don’t leave it in a wet shower, or in a wet soap dish as the soap will be used up faster.
Does melt and pour soap need to be wrapped?
Unlike cold process soap, melt and pour soap should not have much contact with air. You should wrap your handmade soap in plastic wrap once it hardens, which helps to prevent glycerin dew.
Can you reheat melt and pour soap?
Melt and pour soap base can be melted over a double boiler on the stove top, or in a microwave oven. You can reheat melt and pour soap, but watch closely and pay attention to when it is fully melted.
Once you burn melt and pour soap base, there is no going back!
Like many people simply entering into soap making, I began with melt and pour soap bases. After my first couple of sets, I discovered myself asking the same inquiry many people ask– how can I increase the soap?
In order to produce the desired lather, soap makers may add liquid glycerin, coconut oil, sugar, and castor oil. Alternatively, you can purchase a high-lather glycerin soap base. It has detergents added to make big bubbles and enhance lather.
Use High-Lather Melt and Pour Soap
Most melt and pour makers have a line of high-lather soap bases that you can buy. The only caution is they commonly consist of artificial cleaning agents that enhance bubble dimension.
Such items are sometimes called “costs soap bases” and will undoubtedly have an identifier describing lathering residential properties: Cleaning agent: 10-15% (Luxury Bubbles).
Increased Lather Through Application Method
If you intend to help individuals obtain the most lather out of existing soap bars, suggest using the soap to a clean cloth or luffa instead of directly from the bar to their skin.
The rubbing developed while scrubbing the soap into the washcloth or luffa will undoubtedly help create a lather with more giant bubbles.
Increased Lather Through Additives
Each of the additives mentioned above approaches function to a different degree and changes the soap’s residential or commercial properties and service life. Since the melt and pour base has already fully saponified, anything you include never becomes “soap.” It simply becomes part of the soap bar.
For fats and oils to end up being soap, they must go through something called the saponification procedure. Anything included AFTER this process is not soap.
While you can try any one of these techniques to include lather to melt and pour soap, please recognize they will consist of only minor noticeable distinctions– if any– to the typical customer. Some, however, will undoubtedly boost the creaminess of the lather, so it is visible to lots of people. Any of the oil updates will usually achieve this.
Increase Lather with Sugar
The sugar in soap is usually just a decoration. If you add a small amount of sugar, like a teaspoon per pound of soap, it can help with lather. But it can also be incorporated into the mixture for an extra exfoliating scrub! If you’re going to use your soap soon, or want a light scrub bar with sugar as the exfoliant, then this function will work well for you.
Adding sugar granules to the soap can help generate bigger bubbles because of the rubbing created when using it.
More Glycerin for More Lather
Melt and pour soap is additionally called “glycerin soap” since it has additional vegetable glycerin to make it less complicated to work with. This is incorporated with alcohols to assist the soap in stabilizing for remelting and adding fluidity for pouring and recording details in detailed mold.
Your soap will produce a higher quality lather if you add more glycerin. Just be careful not to add too much because it’s already plenty of that ingredient. One tablespoon for every pound of soap base should do the trick!
Increase Lather by Adding Some Coconut Oil
You can add coconut oil to your soap to make the lather creamier and more luxurious. Adding a small amount of coconut oil will also help with the tiny bubbles, as they work together to form bigger bubbles that are part of a natural process.
Glycerin soap base can have different outcomes on your skin. If you are using a coconut oil based soap, there won’t be much of a change in the feel of your skin. Using goat milk or shea butter will give more noticeable results.
Castor Oil for Lather Volume
Including 1 tbsp of castor oil per pound of glycerin soap base can help include quantity to the lather. It does not make larger bubbles. It merely “puffs up” the offered soap a tiny bit. It is a small adjustment that many people would not discover.
The oil never converts to soap. It stays oil. That means if individuals include too much, they could obtain orange areas on their soap (DOS or Dreaded Orange Destinations if the oil eventually turns).
Add in Clays
Including clays such as kaolin, bentonite, and rose clay can aid build lather; however, it is kind of a method. However, it assists in generating a creamy soap, and bentonite specifically includes “slide” to cutting soap.
Combine Shaving MP Soap Bases
An additional alternative that I make use of as a quick fix is to include percentages of “Stephenson’s Melt as well as Pour Cutting Soap Base.” It lathers like crazy and is translucent, so it mixes well with any kind of clear or nontransparent melt and pour soap base. It is EXCEPTIONALLY unsafe. I include 10% of this with 90% of the other MP base to maintain the bar from unclothing users’ hands.
So you want to add some shave soap to your melt and pour set, remember that it is a “whip” that produces lather using a cut brush or clean cloth. When used in a traditional bar of soap, the soap is not instant, but once the lathering procedure starts, it takes off quickly.
These are my top suggestions for including soap to melt and also put soap. Again, to obtain the most effective results, you need to consider buying high-lather soap– if you are okay with the cleaning agents. If not, including some of Stephens’s shave soap base is a great option.
December 14, 2016 Filed Under: Tips & Tricks
Cold process soap is very different compared to soap made from surfactants. Cold process soap is made with natural oils and produces lather naturally. Lather from most store bought soaps come from surfactants or detergents. Synthetic surfactants are harsher on the skin, and can strip the skin of moisture. That’s why cold process soap is so fantastic for sensitive skin, and why soap from the store can leave the skin feeling dry and overly “squeaky clean.”
While cold process soap has many skin benefits, one downside is that cold process soap does not last as long in the shower as soap made from surfactants and detergents. When I give cold process soap to somebody who hasn’t used it before, I make sure to give them tips to prevent this. My number one tip is to make sure the soap sits in a soap dish, or shower rack. If the soap sits in water for too long, it will become mushy and soft very quickly. If you’d like more information on extending the life of your bars in the shower, check out my tips below.
Use More Hard Oils
In general, firmer bars of soap last longer in the shower. Using more hard oils helps create a firmer bar of soap. Hard oils refer to oils that are solid at room temperature such as palm oil, coconut oil, beeswax and palm kernel flakes. In general, soap with about 60% hard oils would be considered a firm bar of soap. That looks something like 30% coconut oil, 30% palm oil, 30% olive oil and 10% “something extra.” If your soap contains large percentage of soft oils, allowing it to cure for longer can help it last longer in the shower. For example, soap made with 100% olive oil (known as Castile soap) benefits from curing for six months to a full year.
Use Stearic Acid
Stearic acid is a great addition to soap recipes if you’d like to create an extra firm bar of soap. It’s usually used as a thickening agent in lotion. It’s a vegetable derived waxy substance that can be used at a 0.5% of your oils in cold process soap. That sounds like a very small amount, but a little goes a long way when it comes to stearic acid! Keep in mind if you use stearic acid in your recipe, it will trace faster and needs a hotter soaping temperature (at least 160 ° F) to make sure it stays melted.
Use Sodium Lactate/Salt
Sodium lactate is the liquid salt of lactic acid. It’s generally added to cooled lye water at a rate of 1 teaspoon per pound of oils. It does wonders for hardening up your bar, and really helps extend the life in the shower. I use it in just about every one of my batches! Learn more about sodium lactate here. If you don’t have sodium lactate on hand, you can also add table salt to your lye solution. In the Palm Free Vertical Twist recipe, we used about 1 tsp. of table salt per pound of oils in the recipe…just like using sodium lactate! Sodium lactate or table salt is especially great when the recipe tends to be a little softer (like a palm free recipe).
Sodium lactate creates a bar that is firmer, can be unmolded faster, and also lasts longer in the shower. Soap on the left contains sodium lactate, while soap on the right does not.
Use a Draining Soap Dish
When a cured bar of soap sits in water, it turns to mush pretty quickly. The best solution to avoid the soap from coming in contact with excess is water is to place it on a soap dish. The dish should elevate the soap and allow the water to drain. In the shower, placing the soap on a shower rack works as well. The key is to keep the soap dry. Without a dish, a fully cured bar of cold process soap will turn soft and mushy in about a day.
I received this beautiful bar from Tabitha in the Fall 2016 Soap Swap. I loved that Tabitha included a dish along with her soap. So clever!
Make Sure to Fully Cure
Making cold process soap takes patience. It needs time to sit in the mold to harden, which usually takes at least 2-3 days. Once unmolded and cut, the bars need to cure for about 4-6 weeks. During this time, excess water in the soap evaporates, which creates a firmer and longer lasting bar. The longer the bar cures, the better. This is especially true for soap made with mostly (or all) olive oil, also known as Castile soap.
Castile soap benefits from a longer curing time of abut six months to a full year. The longer Castile soap cures, the less “slimy” the lather feels. For “normal” cold process recipes, a cure time of 4-6 weeks does the trick. If you water discount your recipe, the soap may not need to cure quite as long. If you’d like to learn more about water discounting your soap, click here.
Do you have any recipe tricks for making your cold process soap last longer in the shower? While little changes like more hard oils and stearic acid make a difference, a soap dish is really key!