In order conserve water in your household, it is important for you to know where to locate the faucet shut off valve. As time goes by, your faucet shut off valve may experience some leaking. It is important that you are aware of this so that you can make the necessary repairs or replacements. Below are the materials that you need along with the instructions on how to replace a faucet shut off valve.
Step 1-Turn off the Main Water Valve
Shut down the main water valve connected to your house. It is located in between the meter of your water and the house itself. Turn off the breaker to the water heater found the circuit breaker panel.
Step 2-Get Rid of Excess Water
It is necessary to get rid of excess water. Depending on where you are installing the new valve, get rid of any excess water draining the sink or flushing the toilet.
Step 3-Disconnect Water Supply Line
Disconnect the water supply of either your faucet or toilet from the water shut off valve. Locate the nut found at the end of the water supply line, turn it counterclockwise with the help of a wrench, and detach it.
Step 4-Examine the Water Pipe
To disconnect the pipe from the compression nut, simply turn the compression nut in a clockwise motion and detach from the pipe. Remove the plastic compression ring as well as the compression nut from the pipe.
Step 5-Cut House Pipe
If the shut off valve is fused to the house pipe, use a hacksaw to cut the house pipe very close to the shut off valve. Make a straight cut, or use a file to even out the edges.
Step 6-Wrap Threads
Wrap the new valve with the threads using plumber’s tape. Using an emery cloth, make sure to clean the outside end of your house pipe. Put the compression nut on the pipe. Be sure that threads of the compression nut are pointing opposite the wall or floor.
Step 7-Place Compression Ring over House Pipe
Place the compression ring on the end part of the pipe. The ring should face away from the wall or floor.
Step 8-Connect Valve and House Pipe
Connect the end part of the valve inside the end of the pipe. The handle of the valve should point in the opposite direction of the wall or floor. Thread the nut on the valve in a counterclockwise motion until it is tightened. Using a wrench, make an additional ¾ turn of the compression nut.
Step 9-Connect Water Supply Line
Connect the water supply line to the valve. Tightened the supply line with the valve using the wrench.
Step 10-Turn On Water
Turn on your house’s main water supply by turning the valve in a clockwise direction. Examine the connections well for any leaks. If there is no signs of a water leak, turn the water heater back on.
Whether you are dealing with water or gas lines, replacing threaded shut-off valves in your home is typically easy. This knowledge could prove extremely important if you ever experience a plumbing problem such as a leaking faucet or an overflowing toilet. The key is to take your time and make sure you have the right equipment.
Set a plan in place before diving into the project. While replacing shut-off valves should only take about an hour, it will take longer if you’re not organized. If you’re fixing a supply valve under the sink, for instance, you’ll probably need either channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench. For bigger valves, you may need one wrench to hold the pipe and another one to move the valve. Don’t forget to put down a bucket — this job will likely get messy.
It will also be important to start work earlier in the day, well before your local hardware store closes. You won’t want to risk starting the job and then having to delay the finish because a certain part is missing. That could mean going the entire night without water.
Having the right equipment will greatly reduce damage risks. If you don’t have the right type of washer, for instance, then a small leak could become a major problem. Also, your replacement valve needs to have the same thread, and be the same size and type of the old one. Either bring the old one with you or take a picture of it to find the exact match.
Turn Off Nearby Valves
After gathering the right tools, the first thing to do is to turn off the valve located closer to your main water supply than the one you’re replacing. This may mean turning off the main shut-off valve near the meter, the house shut-off valve, or the water heater valve. If you’re working with a gas line, there should be another valve close by.
Drain the Water
Next, drain water out of the line. This is particularly important when working on the lower floor of a two-story house or in the basement. Wait a few minutes to make sure all of the water has cleared.
Take Off the Old Valve
Start removing the valve with a wrench. Be careful the pipe doesn’t twist, that can lead to a great deal of damage. Watch it closely, and if any twisting occurs, hold the pipe with another wrench to keep it in place.
Installing the Valve
There is a chance you may need to use some pipe joint compound before installing the new valve. For example, if you’re working with a flexible gas line, you’ll need to apply a bit of compound to the fitting that flares out. That part should be located just above the threads. There are several types of compounds, however, so talk to an employee at the hardware store to make sure you’re getting the right one for your material and application.
To put on the new valve, simply tighten it with a wrench until it feels snug and in the right location.
The Final Test
Once the valve is replaced, make sure it is in the “off” position. If you’re working with a water line, go back to any faucets you turned on to drain water and put them in the “off” position as well so that there aren’t any problems when turning water back on.
Be sure to check for leaks once the water or gas is turned on. For a water line, wipe the valve dry with a towel and then turn on the appliance or faucet for a couple of minutes. If you don’t see any drops of water, you don’t have a leak. For a gas line, put some soapy water on all nearby fittings and be on the lookout for bubbles. If you see them, tighten the valve and recheck.
Once you feel comfortable with this type of job, replacing shut-off valves in the future will be a breeze.
Author Bio: Amanda Hill is the content manager at PVC Fittings Online, a leading supplier of PVC Supplies and accessories for commercial contractors. Amanda is known as the “Queen of PVC” due to the wide range or PVC topics she writes on.
If you’re dealing with a leak or a malfunctioning appliance, the main water shut off valve can save you a lot of trouble and heartache. When you turn the valve off, it completely stops the flow of water throughout your home so you can make any necessary repairs before things get out of control. Over time, this valve can rust or may even break and will need to be replaced. If you’re looking to replace yours, read on to learn more about the replacement process, cost, and more.
Install a water shut off valve : national average cost
|cost to install a water shut off valve|
|National Avg. Materials Cost per valve||$34.77|
|National Avg. Cost (labor and materials) for 1 valve||$190.92|
|National Cost Range (labor and materials) for 1 valve||$173.71 – $208.13|
Replace main water shut off valve cost
If you attempt to replace your main water shut off valve yourself, it should only cost you around $40 for the replacement part. However, this type of job may be best to leave for the professionals. If you decide to hire a plumber, the average cost is approximately $236. The main portion of the cost includes the labor involved. You’ll need to know what valve style you currently have if you attempt to replace this part yourself. There are two main styles used in most homes: a right-angle stop valve if your main water pipe goes through a wall, and a straight-stop valve if the water enters through the floor. Find out what kind of plumbing you have, too. It may be plastic, copper, or galvanized which makes a difference when finding the appropriate valve.
The replacement process
To replace a main water shut off valve, only a few basic tools are required. First, the new valve will need to be purchased and ready to install. Other tools needed include an adjustable wrench, flame-resistant protective gloves, locking pliers, and a soldering torch (when applicable).
1. Connection type
Identify the connection type of your main water shut off valve. Make sure it matches the size of the pipe and the incoming tube connection.
Before replacing a main water shut off valve, the water will need to be turned off. If you have a gas water heater, make sure you turn the knob to the pilot position to be safe. Turn off the circuit breaker if you have an electric water heater, then open a faucet on the lowest level of your home and another one on the upper level. This will help to drain the pipes before you remove the old valve. Disconnect the supply tube from the shut off valve.
3. Removing old valve
Using pliers, loosen the nut and unscrew the valve stem. Screw the valve off and pull it from the water pipe to remove it completely. You may need to melt the old solder to be able to twist and pull the valve off copper or metaltubing.
4. Preparing for the new valve
You will need to add a new plate and install a new compression nut onto the tubing before installing the new mainwater shut off valve. The escutcheon (plate) should come with the new valve to match.
There are two main ways to install the new valve: compression or push-fit. Each requires a different installation method, so be sure you understand how to install your new valve correctly from here or consult a plumber to ensure proper installation.
Considerations before replacing main water shut off valve
There are a few important things to keep in mind before you decide to replace a main water shut off valve. First, make sure you know what type of plumbing you have as well as what type of valve you’ll need. If you are not familiar or comfortable with soldering, you may need the assistance of a plumber to help complete the job. Always check for leaks after you install your new valve just to be sure everything fits tightly. Bring a bucket with you when replacing the valve to catch any remaining water that comes out of the pipe once the old valve is removed. Weigh the cost of replacing the valve yourself versus hiring a plumber to determine which option is right for you.
The cost to install a new water main shut off valve is mostly related to labor, since the materials should run less than $40. Besides material, you can pay between $175 and $250 for a plumber to complete the job. Depending on what type of plumbing and valve you have/need, the cost will vary. If soldering is required or it takes longer than expected to remove the old valve, prepare to pay more for labor. Most plumbers will charge by the hour for labor, so if it’s a simple job, it should cost less than $300.
DIY vs hire a pro
You can attempt to replace your mainwater shut off valve on your own. If you have a basic knowledge of how plumbing works, this is a fairly simple job. However, older pipe or copper piping needs extra attention and care, which means it may take longer. A professional plumber can identify the correct type of replacement valve and will ensure that the new one is installed correctly. They may also offer a warranty on materials and labor, so it could be worth the extra cost if you’re concerned about leaks in the future.
Pros and cons of replace water shut off valve
Here are a few pros and cons regarding replacing your main water shut off valve:
A new valve should last for years and it’s something you shouldn’t need to replace again well into the future.
If you’re doing things DIY, the total cost is inexpensive, running at about $50 or less.
Replacing your valve will help you feel confident about how to address leaks in the future.
It’s not a good idea to replace the valve yourself if you don’t have a good understanding of plumbing, which means you should prepare to pay around $300 for the job.
Any mistakes made when replacing the valve can cause damage, leaks, and other serious problems.
Using a soldering torch can be dangerous, which means this job is best left to the professionals in most cases.
We all have seen these generic valves under our bathroom sinks in North America. Problem is when we go to change faucets we often find the valves don’t close properly and drip annoyingly making the replacement job annoying as you have to put towels and bowls underneath the drip. It also makes you rush unecessarily or we are forced to turn off all the water in the house.
In many houses these valves are soldered on. If you cut them off you are left with only a nub of copper pipe. Unless you are planning to rip out your drywall to expose the plumbing this really only leaves you with a couple options..One is to replace with valves with solder type or one of the newer quick connect connections.
For my application I had four old shutoff valves to replace in a bathroom. Not being a professional plumber i was not keen to work with a blowtorch so close to my wall. I had worked with the SharkBite products before on copper pipe and i was happy to find a 1/2″X3/8″ Compression shutoff valve (part number 23036-0000) with quarter turn ball valve action (better than those leak prone screw shut off valves) that looked like it would do the trick. (Please note, do your home work about what plumbing parts are best for your application, I am not endorsing this product more than to say it’s what worked for me.)
As I mentioned above, cutting the old shutoff valve off with a hacksaw would not leave me much length of copper to work with. I have done some copper pipe soldering before so I decided to give it a go.
Materials you may need before you start:
- blowtorch and flux
- pipe wrench
- eye protection
- aluminum foil
- sand paper
- pipe cleaner
- pipe cutter
- chrome pipe flange trim kits (i uses MOEN Part number M6485 )
- protection (a towel or plywood) under the pipe for flooring or cabinet shelf.
- spray bottle of water
Turn off the water suppy in your house and run a faucet somewhere to remove any pressure from all your water pipes.
I started by ripping off the existing chrome flanges with a pair of pliers to expose as much of the copper pipe between the old valve and the wall. I was uncertain how much of the torch flame would get close to the wall so I took some aluminum foil, doubled it up, ripped a portion, slid it around the pipe and put it where the flange was (see pic below).
I painted on some flux where the solder join was on the old valve. I’m not sure this is necessary – i saw a plumber do that on an online video so i went for it). I sparked the blowtorch up, put it on a medium low flame and started to apply heat moving the flame in a rythmic motion keeping a close eye of where the flame was touching. This part always scares the shit out of me. I always have visions of heat travelling down the copper and bursting into flames inside the walls.
Anyways, as risky as it felt I patiently waited for the solder to start reacting to the heat. I assume a couple nerve wracking minutes passed. When the soldered bubbled I grabbed a large pipe wrench, grasped the valve and applied a twisting motion. When the valve turned I rocked it back and forth towards me keeping the flame on the area. The valve slid off. I removed the flame and put down the torch. Grabbed the bottle of spray water and spritzed both the valve still in the wrench and the pipe in the wall. The goal is to cool things down quickly.
I noticed that some of the solder had formed as a drip at the bottom of the pipe. I heated up the solder and took and old screw driver and scraped off the liquid solder. I’m sure there is a better way to do that clean up but it worked for me.
With the Sharkbite products the most importants step besides cleaning is to make sure the end of the pipe is as cleanly cut as possible. Dont use a hacksaw. Instead use a copper pipe cutter with a wheel cutting disc – The work great and give a super clean cut. My pipe was in good shape but to be sure i trimmed off the end with the pipe cutter but was careful not to take off too much pipe. I used the sandpaper to remove any rough edges from where i cut the pipe
I installed the new chrome pipe flange and made sure i had enough exposed pipe. 2 cm seems to be enough for my situation. I think the Sharkbite instructions call for 1 inch..2.2cm..so close enough for me. When you look at the Sharkbite website they have an PDF download that talks about how the mechanism grabs the copper pipe, it includes instructions on how to remove any Sharkbite connector.
If you look close at the connector end of the Sharkbite you will see a small tube support liner, you need to make sure this is cleanly inserted into the pipe as you slide the valve onto the copper pipe.
Firmly press and slightly twist the Sharkbite valve onto the copper pipe until there is no movement. You wont feel and clicking or obvious sensation that you have a solid connection. But if you grab the valve and try to pull on it there should be definite solid unyeilding resistance, If that valve slips off when you pull on it you will have a real problem on your hands.
Make sure the valve is closed (45 degrees turn to right) and go turn on your water supply. Check for leaks.
(One note: this vavle does not lock into place, you will be able to freely spin the valve a full 360 degrees without any problems. You may not be used to this. In my installation i found there was enough firm reistance in the mechanism so it’s not like teh valve is “flopping about” so i does stay in place unless you deliberable turn it. )
Replacing an old washing machine shut-off valve can be a bit messy, but if you have the time and the patience, you can save some money on professional fees. To replace the water shut-off valve in your washing machine, here is what you need to do:
Step 1 – Unplug the Washing Machine Power Cord
Unplug your washing machine from the power source to avoid accidents.
Step 2 – Turn off the Water Supply to the Laundry Room
Unless you want to deal with a water fountain when you open the water shut off valve, shut down the water supply to the laundry room before you start tinkering with your washer.
Step 3 – Shut off the Locate the Shut-off Valve
Most washing machines have shut-off valves located at the back. To find the shut-off valve of your washer, push the washer away from the wall and look for the water spout coming from the wall. The shut off valve is located directly behind the spout.
Step 4 – Remove the Water Hoses from the Water Valve
With a pair of pliers, carefully remove the water hoses from the water valve, then place one end of the water supply hose inside the bucket. Drain the residual water out from the hose into the bucket.
Step 5 – Open the Control Panel of the Washing Machine
To gain access to the water shut off valve of your washing machine, open the front control panel of the machine and then reach into the cabinet hole. With a screwdriver, remove the screws that are holding the water shut-off valve in place. Once the valve is loose, slowly lift the valve from its place. Take care not to disturb the wiring underneath it.
Step 6 – Disconnect the Wires from the Valve
Before you attempt to remove any of the wires attached to the water shut off valve, label the wires to make it easier to reattach them to the new water shut off valve later on. After labeling the wires, use the needle nose pliers to carefully disconnect the wires attached to the water shut off valve.
Step 7 – Remove the Water Shut-off Valve
To remove the old water shut-off valve of your washing machine, rotate the valve in its place and then pull it through the rear panel of the washer.
Step 8 – Install the New Valve
Wrap plumbers’ tape around the threads of the new valve to prevent water leaks, and then insert the new valve into opening located at the rear of the washing machine’s control panel. Once the valve is inside the washing machine, attach the wires into the new water shut off valve, then put the valve in its place. Use the retaining screws to secure the valve.
Step 9 – Reconnect Your Washer to the Water Supply
After replacing the shut off valve, replace the water hose at the back of your washer and then reconnect the water hose to the water supply.
In most cases, if you need to fix something around the toilet, you will have to cut off the main water supply. However, if the shutoff valve is not working, things get a bit difficult. Whatever else you need to fix will have to be postponed until you fix the shutoff valve itself. Luckily for you, we have prepared some quick and easy solutions to fix a broken shutoff valve.
Fixing a Shutoff Valve
If your shutoff valve is not working, there are three things you should check.
1. Stuck Valve
A stuck valve is one of the most common issues. In that case, spray it with a lubricant such as WD-40 and let it rest for a couple of minutes. Then, try again to check if it’s working. In general, it’s best practice to spray the valve periodically to prevent it from getting stuck and ensure that it’s always working properly.
2. Valve Partially Closing
In some cases, the valve may be partially rotated, preventing you from shutting it off completely. At this point, you will most likely need to buy a new valve.
3. Valve Leaking
You might notice that the valve is leaking even after you shut it off, which means you have a faulty seal. In that case, tighten the fitting around the valve to see if that fixes the problem. If the issue persists, take the valve apart and replace the seal. In the worst-case scenario, you will need to buy a new valve and replace the old one.
Water Supply Line – Turning Off
If you need to turn off the water supply to your toilet immediately and have no time to fix the shutoff valve, don’t worry – you can do it manually. Doing this will also allow you to inspect the problem more easily.
Here are four steps to turning off the water supply to your toilet.
1. Locate Shutoff Valve
If you look at the pipe at the rear of the toilet, you will find a small valve. This valve usually looks like a small ball positioned directly on the pipe. However, if you have an old toilet, it might happen that you don’t have a toilet shutoff valve. In that case, you will need to turn off the water supply to your house, which we will explain later in the article.
2. Rotate Valve Clockwise
Rotate the valve clockwise until it stops. It shouldn’t be hard, so make sure not to force it or it might break. You might also need to apply a bit of a lubricant to make things easier.
3. Ensure Water is Off
Now it’s time to see if the water is really off. To do this, simply flush the toilet. If the water is off, it won’t refill itself and the tank will remain empty. However, if your toilet is clogged, you will need to lift the float lever in the tank. Then, press down the lever. If the water line is off, the tank will stay empty.
Take a look at our guide about flushing a toilet with water off.
4. Turn Water Back On
After you solved the issue that needed to be solved, it’s time to turn the water supply on. To do that, rotate the valve counterclockwise as long as it rotates. Wait a minute, and flush the toilet. If your toilet flushes and refills properly, the water supply is on again.
Main Shutoff Valve – Turning Off
In some cases, you might need to turn off the main water supply to your house before you start fixing anything around the toilet.
- Locate the valve, which is usually in the basement or outside around the home.
- Turn it clockwise as far as it can go. Be prepared that turning off the main water supply will turn off all the water lines in your home.
- Turn it back on by rotating it counterclockwise. Rotate the valve until it stops – avoid over-tightening the valve.
Fixing a Leaking Valve
Fixing a valve that is leaking is actually pretty simple. The only tools that are required for this operation are a screwdriver and slip-joint pliers. By fixing the problem yourself, you will save a decent amount of cash compared to hiring a plumber.
To start, locate the packing nut on the valve. Tighten it by a ⅛ turn clockwise and it should form a seal that will prevent water from going out. You might also need to wrap a cloth on the jaws to prevent damaging the nut. Although it won’t cause serious damage, it can scratch the finish which doesn’t look nice. Also, don’t press too hard to prevent damaging the waterline. Note that in most homes, the valves might not be touched for years, which can cause stains and make them difficult to turn on and off.
An excellent way to check if a valve leaking is by using toilet paper. Since your hands may be wet, simply take a piece of toilet paper and use it to touch around the valve. If the paper comes away dry, you’ve done an excellent job in stopping the leak.
Valve Still Leaking After Replacing Damaged Parts
If you notice that the leaking continues, use groove joint pliers and tighten the nut. If that doesn’t solve the issue, you might need to replace the nut. However, before you replace it, make sure to switch off the primary supply line to your home. Then, disassemble the valve without removing it by removing only the handle and the packing nut. After that, remove the valve stem too. After disassembly, wipe the washers with a piece of cloth until they are completely clean. Make sure not to use plastic tape on stem threads. Finally, assemble the valve and turn on the main supply line to your house. If it’s still leaking, replace the entire valve.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the Valve is Turned Off But the Toilet Still Refills?
If that happens, it means that your shutoff valve is not performing well. Turn off the main water supply line and pull the float lever in the tank. It will stop the tank from refilling. However, this approach is just a temporary solution, and you should fix the valve as soon as possible.
What Do I Do if I Turn off the Water Supply to the Toilet but Still Hear a Trickling Sound?
The trickling sound shows that you have a problem with either the flush or fill valve. In that case, you need to either fix or replace them.
In what Direction Do I Rotate the Valve to Shut It Off?
The valve needs to be rotated clockwise, which will tighten it and prevent the water from reaching the toilet.
How Long Does a Shutoff Valve Last?
Most homes nowadays have compression valves that don’t last too long. On average, a compression valve fails will only last about ten years.
Although a damaged shutoff valve can be a major problem, it will be easy to fix if you follow these instructions. And worst case, if nothing works, buying a new valve is a relatively affordable solution.
I just noticed that this valve is corroded and slowly leaking (arrows point to the leaks):
I started looking online for information and found this page, which discusses different types of valve, but I can’t really tell whether this is a compression shutoff valve (install with wrenches) or a copper sweat shutoff valve (solder into place). Which is it, and is this a repair that I can make myself, or should I bring in a professional?
3 Answers 3
That’s a soldered valve, with a drain cap (typical for things that you might drain for the winter after shutting them off, though not always employed that way.)
Replacement is not the only solution, and may not be the best option.
The packing nut leak (right side) might be as simple as using a pair of wrenches to slightly tighten the nut on the handle stem. The wrench close to the valve body is just holding still so you don’t twist the pipes while tightening the nut closer to the handle. In more extreme cases you might need to repack it (shut off water, remove handle and nut, replace packing material.)
The drain cap (left side drip) may either need to be tightened slightly, or else shut off the valve, remove the cap, with a bucket to catch the water that drains out (if the valve was installed in the correct direction, you don’t have to shut off the main supply) and replace the gasket in the cap, or get a new cap with gasket.
It is absoloutely possible to DIY plumbing in most cases, but it pays to take some time to fully understand the situation before you start.
The first thing I would do is evaluate the broader situation.
- What does that valve feed?
- where is it fed from?
- Is there another shutoff valve upstream?
- Does the upstream shutoff valve work?
- Does the upstream shutoff valve require special tools to operate?
- what else does the upstream shutoff valve shut off? if push came to shove can you live without it for a few days?
Unfortunately your existing valve is soldered in, which makes replacing it non-trivial. So I would probably start by investigating the repair options Ecnerwal has mentioned. However, before I started I would want to have a plan in place for what I would do If things go wrong and I had to switch strategies from repair to replace.
My replacement strategy would probably involve cutting the valve out and fitting a new valve with compression fittings. Unfortunately cutting the valve out will probably leave a gap too long to fit a new one, so it would probably be necessary to cut out a longer length of pipe and then fit a new section of pipe and a coupler.
Looking at your other posts it looks like you are in the USA, while I am in the UK. So the exact products available may differ. Depending on how much play is in the pipes it may be difficult to fit a regular coupler. In the UK you get special “repair couplers” that are longer than a normal coupler and only have a depth stop at one end, so you can slide them onto one pipe and then back onto the other one. I’m not sure if similar products are available in the USA.
Not familiar with that kind of shut off valve. Is it possible to buy new shut off valves just like it and take out the guts and swap new for old?
Also, as far as actual removal goes; if you pull it toward you, will it come, some? Or is it tight against the wall no matter what you do? Is there a chrome trim ring between the valve and the wall and is it the not very thick typical type, if so?
These valves were used in my kitchen and all three of my bathrooms, twin sinks in the master bath, so ten of these cheapo things. These seem to be very popular with builders & plumbing contractors who tout the 10 year warranty, I think its because they can just push them onto the copper stub, connect to the fixture and call it good. A little more money and effort during construction for good old compression valves would have suited me. Well I can say from experience that I really don’t care for these plastic stop valves. Everytime I looked at one crosswise, it starts leaking and not a single one actually stopped flow to allow replacing a faucet, so as I upgraded each faucet, these were the first to go.
Shut off the house water supply and diconnect the hose from the faucet. You can then just unscew them counterclockwise to remove them, hose and all since they were crimped onto the valve. But because the copper gets cut by this action and there is a corroded ring left were the seal was, I’ve ended up up using a stubby tube cutter right below were the seal was to have a clean stub of copper to put a compression valve on.
You only lose about an inch of copper, so unless they really short changed you on the stub, this is the way to go.
If you don’t like compression fittings, you could sweat on a male thread adapter and use a threaded valve instead.
Here is another dig at these Accor’s, the only place in my house these weren’t installed, for whatever reason, was at each toillet, these are standard chrome angle valves. Granted my house is almost 2x older than the 10 year warranty of the Accor’s, but all three of the original cheapo chrome angle valves still work perfectly, same age, same water supply that rendered every single Accor in my house useless for shut-off. I even broke a couple of the cheap little knobs trying to “snap” them out to the closed position. Nuff said!