How to get a mamod steam engine going

Mamod Steam Curler

Moderator:Moderators

Feb 10, 2011 #1 2011-02-10T20:20

I’m the proud proprietor of a 1975 (I’ve been instructed, wouldnt know the way to inform!) Mamod Steam curler.

That is my first ever mamod and am after some tips about getting it operating.

Apparent issues lacking have been a chimney, a burner, a pipe and a scuttle.

I imagine this mannequin has a reverse lever and due to this fact 3pipes, 2 exhaust and one feed i assume? I believe the reversing exhaust is lacking.

I improvised a burner utilizing a (barely crushed) tea mild with cotton wool and meths. Crude, nevertheless it works; and a couple of minutes later I used to be rewarded by a hiss of steam. WOW!

I added some oil additionally and was rewarded by a couple of revolutions backwards.

I do have some issues nonetheless, at first steam was hissing out of in every single place. I changed the o-ring on the water stage plug and on the protection valve and issues bought higher.

I can nonetheless hear a pronounced hissing although, hadn’t realised there have been two o-rings on the protection valve, the highest one below the sprung reduction lid (mushroom?) is quiet deteriorated. Is there a approach of fixing this or is it a new valve?

Every other information folks can present might be a lot appreciated. I’ve had a fast look across the discussion board and there are some nice tasks on the market!

Anyway, some footage.

Thanks,
Wealthy
How to get a mamod steam engine going
How to get a mamod steam engine going

Mamod SL1

Moderator:Moderators

Sep 10, 2015 #1 2015-09-10T00:58

Hello Guys,
I’ve lately constructed a small 45mm backyard railway, and have acquired a 45mm SL1 to run on it.

How to get a mamod steam engine goingmamod1 by Peter Michalak, on Flickr

The loco has been re-wheeled with IP Engineering metal wheels, an in-cab regulator and excessive strain security valve, Goodal filler valve, and a dead-leg lubricator. Its additionally been fitted with a linkage to function the reverser from contained in the cab.

It hadn’t been run in shut to 10 years, so I sprayed the loco with WD40, and cleaned all of it up, then re-lubricated it with steam oil and lightweight machine oil as required, crammed the burner and away it went on blocks.

It has a few points, and I used to be questioning if anybody can help me.

As quickly because it will get placed on the tracks, it strikes simply a few toes, then stalls – there is no actual gradients on the road, and the protection is lifting, even when it stalls.

I seen a large quantity of water and steam escaping from the drivers aspect piston, which makes me assume there’s a difficulty with that cylinder – to the purpose the place after simply a couple of minutes, the loco’s out of water and I’ve had to drop the hearth. Is there a approach to refurbish these cylinders or are new cylinders wanted?

On the similar time, the loco’s burner (a Three wick selection) appears to chew via metho like its going out of style. After lower than 5 minutes, gasoline is having to be re-filled, because the wicks are quite quick, i am suspecting this may occasionally have one thing to do with it?

Additionally, i am positive the Goodall valve is not meant to leak steam and water from it’s it?

I am new to the stay steam aspect of issues, so any recommendation right here could be drastically appreciated.

Sep 12, 2015 #2 2015-09-12T11:54

Peter, you should buy upgraded cylinders from Roy Wooden Fashions. Properly price the fee.

The Goodall valve should not leak steam. If it’s the kind with a piece of silicone tubing on it, the tubing would possibly want to get replaced.

Verify the wicks are packed pretty tight within the burner. If they’re unfastened, meths could also be spilling out. You don’t need that because it’s a recipe for beginning a hearth.

What oil do you employ within the lubricator? It has to be correct thick grade steam oil.

Sep 14, 2015 #3 2015-09-14T00:58

Hello Busted Bricks.

The Goodall valve is the sort with the silicone tubing. Is there a specific kind of tubing that I would like to use (ie that may stand up to excessive temperatures?) and what diameter do I would like?

The wicks are very unfastened within the burner – I experimented with some cotton lamp wick yesterday, which improved the metho utilization, however did not present enough warmth to maintain the loco on the transfer – it stalled on a number of events whereas regaining strain.

I stay in South Australia, so haven’t got entry to the cottage industries to present spares for stay steam loco’s – what materials can I exploit for the burner wicks – I learn someplace that you need to use chrome steel mesh??

I am not sure of the oil, nonetheless the gentleman who bought the loco to me, equipped a good massive bottle of the stuff – good and thick, like treakle.

Sep 14, 2015 #4 2015-09-14T02:47

All the time looking for the following basket case.

Sep 14, 2015 #5 2015-09-14T02:59

For silicone tubing do a search on eBay. You can get it from mannequin steam suppliers (who cost the earth for it) or automotive and meals business suppliers (who do not). Is available in all types of colors together with clear.

To work out the scale you want measure the diameter of the half on the Goodall valve it sits on after which search for tubing with an inside diameter 1mm – 2mm much less.

For lamp wick, strive to get a wick with a nominal diameter barely bigger than the opening within the burner you might be pushing it into. Lamp wick just isn’t costly so it shouldn’t “break the financial institution” if you happen to discover you’ve gotten to get a few totally different diameters to obtain the perfect outcomes.

While you’re on the Forest Classics’ web site you could like to have a have a look at their ceramic burners. 😀

Sep 15, 2015 #6 2015-09-15T06:22

HenryArtist – is there a kind of lamp wick I needs to be on the lookout for? Any which can be higher than others?

Flyish – I checked the back-to-backs on the wheels, they usually have been in gauge.

I managed a semi-successful check run on Sunday, nonetheless after lower than a lap the loco stalled whereas strain constructed up (my observe is lower than 20 metres lengthy, and rises lower than 15cm in top)

Sep 15, 2015 #7 2015-09-15T14:06

Water refill valve – Your kind makes use of silicon tubing. The key is to get some tubing that has a skinny wall thickness, in any other case the valve is not going to match again via the 1/4″ boiler insert. I exploit skinny tubing which is used for the gasoline clunk in a Radio Management mannequin’s gasoline tank – seems to be 4mm outer diameter with a 0.7mm wall thickness.

Wicks – Some merchants promote magic/tremendous wick materials, however you’ll be able to choose it up simply (& cheaper) on eBay as it’s bought as Wooden Range door rope. It has a ceramic content material which after a couple of burnings will successfully seal across the prime of your burner’s tubes. I lower mine oversize initially, then as soon as it has sealed across the burner’s tubes I trim it to the operational top (approx 4 – 6mm above the tube).

Leaking Cylinder – The place is the leak coming from? Whether it is across the piston rod then the tip cap has worn out and there are not any replacements accessible. Whether it is from the again of the cylinder or again plate then it might be both a operate of weak cylinder pivot bolt springs, or your wheels/coupling rods should not free operating sufficient and inflicting a restriction.

You ought to be in a position to pull the piston rods off the coupling pins on the driving wheels and stow them out of the way in which. Then you’ll be able to see how free operating your loco is by giving it a push alongside your observe. If it doesn’t transfer a lot then I might suspect these IP Eng wheels. They’re fitted utilizing a nut retained bearings that are very illiberal to any slight misalignment. I’ve additionally discovered it’s helpful to clear off the axle ends behind the wheels the place these bearings act by utilizing some brasso soaked high-quality moist & dry sandpaper.

Not all the things is ideal and from time to time issues want a bit of labor to repair the little issues that happen.

Mamod isn’t any exception and no mannequin might be with out its points however it’s important to know what to do when one thing goes unsuitable. Steam fashions can create quite a few issues and as a good engineer it needs to be your position to repair them once they come up. Whether or not it’s a easy job of merely changing a half or cleansing out the engine or a extra complicated challenge, it may be wholly rewarding for you to do it your self.

Must you encounter any complicated drawback then Mamod is readily available to see whether it is fixable by sending it again to the workshop. Nonetheless, easier points could be resolved at dwelling with a little elbow grease, the fitting knowhow and a lot of endurance. Clearly a mannequin breaking down is the very last thing anybody needs so you will have to get it again up and operating as quickly as potential.

Listed here are some options to fixing the commonest issues with Mamod fashions.

Melted sight glass

Sight glass can soften from time to time however it may be resolved. Firstly you have to to order a new half from the Mamod manufacturing facility which is able to embrace a new Perspex sight glass and a rubber seal. Unscrew the unique screws and take away the melted sight glass, watch out when doing this as you need to keep away from damaging the remaining paintwork on the boiler.

After eradicating, clear totally to make sure that all of the remnants of the previous sight glass and rubber seal have been eliminated. Place the brand new half on the clear floor and put within the new Perspex ensuring the plastic protecting coating has been eliminated, then merely screw in place.

Falling strain within the boiler

You possibly can perform a variety of checks if you happen to dropping strain in your boiler. Issues can vary from a leaking whistle to the protection being screwed in too tightly to a worn cylinder. By finishing up a few primary checks you’ll be able to establish the place the issue has stemmed from.

A leaking whistle can enable steam to escape and the strain to fall and can solely want to be oiled to get it again on observe. If the protection valve has been screwed in too tightly then merely undo it and re-tighten to finger tight and no extra.

Steam can leak from different areas akin to copper pipes which can require re-soldering, if so then ship the mannequin again to Mamod. If it’s the cylinder then it would almost definitely want changing whereas flywheel simply want to be realigned to resolve the difficulty.

Sticky cylinder

A sticky cylinder can stop the mannequin from transferring. It’s fairly a frequent drawback however could be resolved pretty simply. It often happens as a result of the toggle spring just isn’t working correctly and it could possibly get caught. This implies the cylinder is unable to transfer in the way in which it needs.

To repair this, merely pull the cylinder away from the engine face a few instances to launch the spring after which take away any seen filth. Ensure it’s correctly oiled to keep away from the issue taking place once more sooner or later.

Cellular engine producing steam however not transferring

This may be one of the crucial irritating factor for modellers, all the things appears to be operating easily however the mannequin will not transfer. This may be a results of sure component of your engine inflicting friction and the time delay between the boiler reaching strain and the flywheel to attain a working velocity and thus the engine begins to run.

To repair this elevate the rear drive wheel up utilizing blocks then steam up the boiler as regular. As soon as working strain is reached, spin the flywheel however maintain the rear wheel off the ground after which await the flywheel to actual a good velocity. Then place the rear drive wheel on the ground and push it ahead, it will give the flywheel enough time to get the engine operating.

Operating a steam engine on Air?

Moderator:Moderators

Jun 02, 2010 #1 2010-06-02T17:32

:assist:
I’ve seen a couple on the discussion board saying they’re run on air, and being a ‘novice’ at steam nonetheless I used to be questioning how it’s completed?

e.g.
is it foot pump with one in every of them adaptors, a compressed air machine or campressed air can?

and the way is it arrange?

Many Thanks :thumb:,
Tom 😀

Jun 02, 2010 #2 2010-06-02T17:52

I believe most of us use an bizarre compressor with a regulator.
Some folks have success with aquarium pumps if the engine is a good one.
The most effective, IMHO, could be a small airbrush compressor as they’re very quiet.
I’ve a small compressor from a dehumidifier which works properly and is quiet sufficient to use in the home. A fridge compressor can be splendid.

Jun 02, 2010 #3 2010-06-02T18:00

Bugsy wrote: I believe most of us use an bizarre compressor with a regulator.
Some folks have success with aquarium pumps if the engine is a good one.
The most effective, IMHO, could be a small airbrush compressor as they’re very quiet.
I’ve a small compressor from a dehumidifier which works properly and is quiet sufficient to use in the home. A fridge compressor can be splendid.

That’s a good concept. fridge compressor. by no means thought of that one!.

An inexpensive one could be discovered at any metallic scrap place.

Jun 02, 2010 #4 2010-06-02T18:04

I’ve a workshop compressor with a 24 liter tank (you’ll be able to get them with a lot smaller tanks) it makes noise when i’m filling the tank up however as quickly because the tank is full it goes off and is totally quiet.
You should purchase or make the adapters to join to your engines (value about 3-4 ) then you’ll be able to run your engines with air.

I need to say that steam nonetheless beats it when it comes to enjoyable. I primarily use air only for fast checks or throughout repairs when heating up the boiler will simply delay me or make the elements too sizzling for me to contact .

To Mr. Stuart Webmaster man, you couldnt presumably sitcky this publish in order that if folks dont add new ideas for a whereas then it wouldnt get drawn to the archives of time.

Both approach, im nonetheless a noob to restoring issues so i (and alot of others i presume) would actually recognize it if previous arms like cummings would publish a few directions.

bradfirj92 wrote:
. it if previous arms like cummings.

Your different thread has a few ideas, if there’s any you want particularly, I could give you the option to assist.

____________________
I am a lumberjack and I am okay,
I sleep all night time and I work all day

He is a lumberjack and he is okay,
He sleeps all night time and he works all day.

bradfirj92 wrote:
To Mr. Stuart Webmaster man, you couldnt presumably sitcky this publish in order that if folks dont add new ideas for a whereas then it wouldnt get drawn to the archives of time.

That may be a good concept, I’d PM him although as I do not assume Webmaster comes down right here that always. I do not know, I am positive he could also be lurking within the shadows someplace, simply ready to pounce.

____________________
I am a lumberjack and I am okay,
I sleep all night time and I work all day

He is a lumberjack and he is okay,
He sleeps all night time and he works all day.

My Fundamental Tip (if you say restore, I assume it’s properly used, most likely with elements damaged:

Initially, if you get your Mamod, is to clear all of it up (see my different publish). Purchase a new saftey valve. Though not important, I discover it to be a good precaution irrespective of how okay the one it got here with is. Do all of the oiling and different stuff and try to get it to run. Solely put one pill in, and be affected person and delicate, don’t placed on a drive band. On the first signal of one thing unsuitable (particularly with the saftey valve), cease the check. Report notes and so forth. Then, scrape off all of the paint with skinny sand paper (that is assuming your doing a full strip down restoration). All the time do that after check operating because the paint protects the metallic from injury via warmth and so forth. Then, re-solder any joint on the piping if required, purchase any spare elements required and I’d recommendation the next accesories:

The strain gauge will assist with testing.

For portray, I’d suggest automobile aerosel spray paints, do a number of skinny coats and masks off fastidiously. I’m going to paint my Mamod Traction engine to the usual colors however with a crimson and gold striped boiler. I am going to maintain you guys posted.

____________________
I am a lumberjack and I am okay,
I sleep all night time and I work all day

He is a lumberjack and he is okay,
He sleeps all night time and he works all day.

Discovered one other tip for if you get your Mamod:

As a routine upkeep proceedure, fill the boiler with white vinegar. Depart it for about an 1 hour, and the drain the boiler fully and flush it a few instances to take away all traces of vinegar. That is to take away construct up on the within of the boiler in case you are not utilizing distilled water.

NOTE: I’ve by no means completed this trick so the time might be very inaccurate, if anybody else does it, please report on it is effectiveness.

____________________
I am a lumberjack and I am okay,
I sleep all night time and I work all day

He is a lumberjack and he is okay,
He sleeps all night time and he works all day.

Cummins wrote:
My Fundamental Tip (if you say restore, I assume it’s properly used, most likely with elements damaged:

Initially, if you get your Mamod, is to clear all of it up (see my different publish). Purchase a new saftey valve. Though not important, I discover it to be a good precaution irrespective of how okay the one it got here with is. Do all of the oiling and different stuff and try to get it to run. Solely put one pill in, and be affected person and delicate, don’t placed on a drive band. On the first signal of one thing unsuitable (particularly with the saftey valve), cease the check. Report notes and so forth. Then, scrape off all of the paint with skinny sand paper (that is assuming your doing a full strip down restoration). All the time do that after check operating because the paint protects the metallic from injury via warmth and so forth. Then, re-solder any joint on the piping if required, purchase any spare elements required and I’d recommendation the next accesories:

The strain gauge will assist with testing.

For portray, I’d suggest automobile aerosel spray paints, do a number of skinny coats and masks off fastidiously. I’m going to paint my Mamod Traction engine to the usual colors however with a crimson and gold striped boiler. I am going to maintain you guys posted.

Why the brand new security valve? If the previous one is OK use it – we,re not speaking large psi right here, not more than 15. Therefore no want for a strain gauge.

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A Mamod mannequin steam engine TE1a with unique booklet

A boxed 1960’s Mamod SR1 steam curler with burner and steering rod.

A 1970’s Mamod SR1 A stay steam curler, comprising engine, steering rod, burner tray and driving belts

A 1970’s Mamod SW1 steam wagon, in inexperienced and crimson, with spirit lamp filler funnel and removable steering extension

A boxed Mamod TE1A steam tractor with vaporizing spirit lamp, filler funnel, removable steering extension and directions

A Mamod SA1 steam roadster in unique field

A Mamod staionary engine and one other comparable (2).

A Mamod MM2 Stationery Steam Engine, properly used, poor field.

Mamod MMI Station Steam Engine, with burner, properly used.

A Mamod steam tractor and a Schuco Outdated Timer mannequin 1229, each boxed

A Mamod TE 1a traction engine, seems unused and bought full with steering rod

A Mamod steam tractor, would profit from cleansing, seems to have been steamed corrosion spots to cover roof, and bought with arduous cowl e book Department Line to Ilfracombe, Middleton Press

A Mamod SW1 steam wagon comprising of inexperienced, white and crimson physique of normal specification, housed within the unique card field with steering rod (little or no use)

Mamod TE 1a traction engine, which might profit from cleansing, bought in poor situation outer field and with steering rod and filler funnel

One tray containing a amount of assorted boxed Mamod steam engine and lineshaft equipment to embrace a Mamod Minor 1 steam engine, a Mamod mannequin energy press, a energy hammer, grinding machine and sprucing machine, all housed in unique containers

A Mamod TE1 traction engine of normal specification, completed in inexperienced, black, crimson and white, housed within the unique card field with varied paperwork, leaflets and ephemera

One tray containing a assortment of assorted stay steam vegetation and lineshaft equipment, blended manufactures to embrace Bowman Fashions of Dereham, Mamod, Wilesco and others, examples to embrace a Mamod SE1A steam engine, varied Wilesco miniature workshop equipment to embrace drilling machine, polisher, noticed, and others

A small Mamod stationary steam engine with horizontal boiler driving a separate flywheel to energy equipment, full with scuttle, merchandise has been used and would profit from cleansing

A Mamod stay steam traction engine.

Railway: amount of 00 gauge railway equipment to embrace buildings, energy controllers, books, catalogues, and so forth, together with a Mamod stationary steam engine. (1 field)

A boxed Mamod Traction Engine T.E.1A

A Mamod stay steam Stephenson’s Rocket, in playworn situation, with a small quantity of observe.

A Mamod stay steam grouping of 5 particular person items.

A Mamod ‘Steam Roadster’ stay steam mannequin of an Edwardian motor automobile.

A grouping of Mamod stay steam traction engines and street rollers, all fired.

A number of Mamod stay steam vegetation, all fired.

A Mamod traction engine, boxed and one other comparable.

A boxed Mamod stay steam mannequin curler, along with two capturing sticks

A Mamod steam tractor and wagon

A Mamod stationary steam engine

Mamod steam touring automobile.

Mamod Stationary Steam Engine and a amount of railway 00 gauge locomotive carriages, wagons and equipment

2 small Mamod engines.

A Mamod steam engine, with strong gasoline pill field and funnel.

A Mamod Minor 1 stationary steam engine, field a/f

A Mamod steam tractor, boxed, along with a Mamod stay steam stationary engine and a number of varied different toys. CONDITION REPORT: All in used situation, however typically good.

A Mamod model steam street curler, 32cms (12.5ins) lengthy.

MAMOD TRACTION ENGINE LUMBER TRAILOR

A Mamod steam curler, with field and equipment

MAMOD STEAM TRACTOR

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A VINTAGE MAMOD TE1A STEAM TRACTION ENGINE WITH ORIGINAL BOOKLET

Assortment of Meccano, together with Mamod base plate, scratch constructed elements for a Meccano steam traction engine, plates, strips, and elements, three containers.

Mamod stay steam Roadster automobile; white physique, with out burner equipment or field.

A modified Mamod TE1a Steam Tractor and boxed SEL Stationary Engine, the TE1a with added ‘footplating’ to entrance finish, rubber tyres fitted, plain entrance to smokebox and prolonged reversing management, an earlier instance with water stage plug, full with scuttle and spirit burner, P-F, along with a boxed SEL ‘Minor No 1520’ engine with burner and unique ‘Benefit’ directions, F-G, boiler seems painted with gold paint, field P-F, a lot taped, and a crimson pump-type oil can

A single-cylinder vertical marine-type Steam Engine, presumably from an older Stuart Turner design, completed in inexperienced and black with brass trim, unique flywheel 1½” diameter with an extra Mamod spoked flywheel mounted exterior, the engine with cast-brass cylinder, drain cocks, integral-cast slide-bar association and regulator to stay steam pipe, mounted on a polished picket base, G

A Package-built Mamod live-steam Tractor and Log Trailer, in black with yellow wheels and flywheel, competently made up aund full with security valve, whistle, strong gasoline burner tray and scuttle, lacks steering extension, with unique paperwork G-VG, little or no used along with a limber wagon (drawbar lacking) and nearly full field of gasoline tablets, G (qty)

A Mamod RS1 live-steam Zero Gauge Practice Set and extra Monitor, with inexperienced SL1 locomotive, open wagon and timber wagon (lacks polystyrene logs), full with burner tray, oil bottle, oval of observe, funnel, coupling hook and spare gasoline tablets, all within the unique set field, G-VG, loco seems little used however has slight rusting between frames (movement turns easily), field G with instruction leaflets, along with three further containers of straight rails, G-VG, containers P-G (4)

MAMOD STEAM TRACTOR, in field, together with a boxed Hornby Railways electrical prepare set and a Hornby Railways 00 guage scale mannequin, in field (3)

Mamod Boiler Pressures and SV blow off .

Moderator:Moderators

Aug 12, 2009 #1 2009-08-12T00:50

I am simply after some information right here with my first Mamods. After placing a gauge on my SE3 i discover it begins to spit about 20 PSI and desires to maintain blowing off increasingly more because it climbs (duh) however i’ve by no means let it go previous 25 PSI. (Simply a check of the SV and meths burner combo).

What ought to i run this child at simply to be secure. I’ve been preserving it at 20 or much less. throughout runs. and keeping track of the strain.

I additionally would love to know if the MM1 could be the identical. (no gauge although).

How to get a mamod steam engine going

Wilesco English Web site

Aug 12, 2009 #2 2009-08-12T00:58

This winter, I am going to do an experiment to see how excessive the strain can get on a mamod boiler

I am positive these boilers can most likely deal with 40 psi, however I’d by no means let it get that prime.

The “security” valve doesnt relieve it of strain?
Lots of the time the O ring sticks, that may be the issue.

Aug 12, 2009 #3 2009-08-12T01:06

How to get a mamod steam engine going

Wilesco English Web site

Aug 12, 2009 #4 2009-08-12T01:24

The lifting strain is meant to be about 15psi I believe.

I have not examined all, however out of the mamods I’ve run on each air and steam, to get the identical RPM from air as steam, I’m taking a look at about 20psi. However I put that down to lack of warmth and issues being a bit tighter? However going off your check that is not the case.

That is going off 2 gauges, one on the regulator, the opposite an aftermarket oil strain gauge that I placed on the road.

I hardly ever run them on air, and if I do it is at a a lot decrease strain for sluggish velocity and reaching 20 was simply a check for me.

When operating them on steam with the common burners, I’d simply allow them to run at no matter they go at.

The spring within the valve should not actually get stiffer. Solely factor I can assume that might have an effect on it’s the thickness of oring at prime of valve, or if.

Edit: Simply checked my 2 mamod S/V on scales by urgent down. I do know it would not equal psi, however each began to open at about eight ounce and simply over 1pound for absolutely opened. My Steamco one opens at simply over 1 pound and about 2.5 pound absolutely open.

There was a scale as soon as posted right here however I misplaced it. It confirmed how to decide a SV psi score by utilizing the above methodology on kitchen scales. Tony?? I believe posted it?

You do not have to at all times go on the lookout for solutions.
Generally you simply want to hear.
Rick McCrank

Not all the things is ideal and from time to time issues want a bit of labor to repair the little issues that happen.

Mamod isn’t any exception and no mannequin might be with out its points however it’s important to know what to do when one thing goes unsuitable. Steam fashions can create quite a few issues and as a good engineer it needs to be your position to repair them once they come up. Whether or not it’s a easy job of merely changing a half or cleansing out the engine or a extra complicated challenge, it may be wholly rewarding for you to do it your self.

Must you encounter any complicated drawback then Mamod is readily available to see whether it is fixable by sending it again to the workshop. Nonetheless, easier points could be resolved at dwelling with a little elbow grease, the fitting knowhow and a lot of endurance. Clearly a mannequin breaking down is the very last thing anybody needs so you will have to get it again up and operating as quickly as potential.

Listed here are some options to fixing the commonest issues with Mamod fashions.

Melted sight glass

Sight glass can soften from time to time however it may be resolved. Firstly you have to to order a new half from the Mamod manufacturing facility which is able to embrace a new Perspex sight glass and a rubber seal. Unscrew the unique screws and take away the melted sight glass, watch out when doing this as you need to keep away from damaging the remaining paintwork on the boiler.

After eradicating, clear totally to make sure that all of the remnants of the previous sight glass and rubber seal have been eliminated. Place the brand new half on the clear floor and put within the new Perspex ensuring the plastic protecting coating has been eliminated, then merely screw in place.

Falling strain within the boiler

You possibly can perform a variety of checks if you happen to dropping strain in your boiler. Issues can vary from a leaking whistle to the protection being screwed in too tightly to a worn cylinder. By finishing up a few primary checks you’ll be able to establish the place the issue has stemmed from.

A leaking whistle can enable steam to escape and the strain to fall and can solely want to be oiled to get it again on observe. If the protection valve has been screwed in too tightly then merely undo it and re-tighten to finger tight and no extra.

Steam can leak from different areas akin to copper pipes which can require re-soldering, if so then ship the mannequin again to Mamod. If it’s the cylinder then it would almost definitely want changing whereas flywheel simply want to be realigned to resolve the difficulty.

Sticky cylinder

A sticky cylinder can stop the mannequin from transferring. It’s fairly a frequent drawback however could be resolved pretty simply. It often happens as a result of the toggle spring just isn’t working correctly and it could possibly get caught. This implies the cylinder is unable to transfer in the way in which it needs.

To repair this, merely pull the cylinder away from the engine face a few instances to launch the spring after which take away any seen filth. Ensure it’s correctly oiled to keep away from the issue taking place once more sooner or later.

Cellular engine producing steam however not transferring

This may be one of the crucial irritating factor for modellers, all the things appears to be operating easily however the mannequin will not transfer. This may be a results of sure component of your engine inflicting friction and the time delay between the boiler reaching strain and the flywheel to attain a working velocity and thus the engine begins to run.

To repair this elevate the rear drive wheel up utilizing blocks then steam up the boiler as regular. As soon as working strain is reached, spin the flywheel however maintain the rear wheel off the ground after which await the flywheel to actual a good velocity. Then place the rear drive wheel on the ground and push it ahead, it will give the flywheel enough time to get the engine operating.