Introduction: How to Make a Mannequin Bust
The project I am sharing with you today was a challenge in one of the blogger groups I belong to. The challenge was to create something using cardboard. This project was inspired by one of my art projects that failed, but that failure gave me the idea for this project.
Plastic mannequin hanger
resin/polyurethane optional extras
threaded metal pole
Step 1: The Failed Project
The failed project idea was to use thick Kraft paper and cover the mannequin surface as my base. It looked really great at first and I was over the moon with the results.
But a couple of weeks later the whole covering just slipped off the mannequin. The reason this happened was that I used cheap glue to attach the paper. This then gave me the idea for my cardboard bust. My thoughts were if the paper just slid off so would the cardboard.
Step 2: Prepare Your Cardboard
To make my bust I used a thick cardboard box which I ripped into small pieces. Next, I put the cardboard into a bucket of water to soften.
After an hour the cardboard was still really hard which was disappointing. I thought I would try adding boiling water and this did soften the cardboard enough to pull apart.
Step 3: Blend the Cardboard
Even after soaking in hot water, the cardboard was still pretty tough. I first tried my hand blender to mash up the cardboard but it was taking too long.
I am not very domestic in the kitchen but I do have all the appliances. So after 20 years of sitting in the cupboard, I thought I would give my blender a whirl. This worked fast and mashed up the cardboard perfectly.
The cardboard was added to the blender with water and blended until it was a pulp. I did this in small batches so it was not too much strain on the blender.
Step 4: Strain the Pulp
Next, you need to remove all the excess water from the pulp. I used some mesh fabric I had at home, a stocking will also work if you have some. I put the pulp inside the mesh and squeezed out all the excess water.
Step 5: Add the Glue
You can now add your glue to the pulp. I used a cheap craft PVA glue so it would not stick to the mannequin once dried.
Using gloves you can mix the pulp and glue together in a bowl.
Step 6: Adding the Pulp to the Mannequin
I added a layer of plastic to the mannequin first but this did not work. The pulp kept sliding off the mannequin while I tried to shape it.
You can add the cardboard pulp to the whole mannequin by pushing it down onto the mannequin shape. I chose to just add the pulp to some parts. I wanted it to appear like a bust sculpture that had been broken over time.
You can now leave the cardboard to dry. Mine took 2 days for the top layer to fully dry as it was winter here in Australia. After 2 days I lifted the cardboard from the mannequin and left the inside to dry for a day.
Step 7: Painting the Cardboard Bust
You can use black gesso or black acrylic paint if you want to achieve the same effect like mine, and paint everything black. For a better cosmetic look, I painted the inside too.
At this stage you can add any colour of metallic wax paste, I used bronze because I wanted it to look old. To add the wax you touch the wax with the tip of your finger and wipe it over the raised surfaces of the cardboard.
Step 8: Sealing the Bust
While the bust was firm it was not as strong as I would have liked. To seal the paint and make the bust stronger I added 2 coats of epoxy resin which I painted on with a bush. I also added a layer of epoxy resin to the inside. This made the bust really hard. Alternatively you can add 2 coats of clear polyurethane.
Step 9: Making the Stand
A few years ago, I was asked by one of my followers to see if I could make a Steampunk Christmas tree. While I did make one it was not something I needed. So I recycled all the parts I made into other projects. I used the stand from the Christmas tree to hold up my bust and the gears went on my steampunk mannequins. To attach the bust to the stand I used a nut the correct size for the threaded metal rod and used epoxy resin glue to attach it to the back of the bust. You can then screw the bust into the threaded rod.
Step 10: More DIY Projects
I made this jewellery box cupboard to store all my jewellery in one place.
Step 11: Toddler Lego Table
What toddler would not love a lego table upcycled from an old desk?
For more great unique projects pop over to my website Unique Creations By Anita.
This is an entry in the
Stick It Challenge
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[supply]Pillow filling for stuffing out your form[/supply]
[supply]A metal base[/supply]
[supply]2-3 rolls of duct tape[/supply]
[supply]Apiece of cardboard[/supply]
[supply]An old hip-length T-shirt[/supply]
[supply]A food foil (for the neck)[/supply]
Prepare all your tools and supplies.
Find a under hip lenght, old fit to body t-shirt. Wear it and then wrap your neck with a fod foil to secure it (as shown on the picture).
In those few steps ask your friend to help you in wrapping your silhouette with the duct tape. First stripe under your breasts (make sure it is tight enough). Next stripes crossed in between the breasts as shown on the picture.
Continue wrapping one by one.
Carefully take off the part of the food foil that covers your neck and make some kind of a вЂњtape collarвЂќ as you can see on the picture. Finish the first part when you gain the effect of new, вЂњtape t-shirtвЂќ.
This is how it should look like at the back. Wrap more tape evenly from your waist till the end of your t-shirt line, do it tight!
Now make an even cut on the back part of your form to enable taking it off.
Last but not least, use your tape again to get rid of the cut.
Fill the form with the pillow filling or small pieces of fabric leftovers. Finish your work sticking the form on your metal base, and voila it is ready to use with any sewing project.
If you ever dreamed of having Cher’s closet from Clueless, this tutorial is for you! I’m going to show you how to create virtual outfits that look like you’re wearing your clothes in Stylebook. It’s endlessly entertaining to make outfits! I still love my flat lay collages, but this method gives a more realistic view of how the outfit will look in real life. Plus I have even used it to virtually try on clothes from some stores! I also want to emphasize you don’t need to do this to use Stylebook. This is a power user alternative to the regular flay lay photo method.
Basically, this a new method to photograph your items for Stylebook. It’s way more straightforward than it looks! You’re going to photograph yourself to create the “virtual mannequin,” and then you’ll photograph your clothes while posing the same way. Below are the tricks I used to make the process as seamless as possible!
Creating The Mannequin
First, you’re going to create your virtual mannequin. Use a tripod to photograph yourself on a solid background. Don’t forget to make sure you take your photos in a bright room.
I taped a piece of pink bulletin board paper from the craft store to the wall as my background. Standing on the background as well as having it behind me, made editing easier. It also allowed me to mark my foot position, which helped me stand in the same place for each clothing picture.
- What To Wear – Wear something plain and form-fitting, so it doesn’t show when you create your outfit collages. I wanted to make sure that my mannequin could wear shorts and cropped tops, so I photographed myself in bike shorts and cropped tank that wouldn’t show when I layered my clothes in the collage. I also wore a nude color pair of ballet flats since they are fairly neutral shoe.
- How To Pose – It would be best if you posed in a way that is super easy to replicate for your clothing photos. You’ll want to pose the same way for each subsequent clothing photo, so the clothes look like they’re really on your body. I stood facing straight at the camera with my arms down by my sides. It’s not very exciting, but I knew I could easily stand that way for each image.
- Editing – Crop the image, so it’s just you and the bulletin board paper background (no furniture, rugs, etc.). Next, use the slider to erase as much of the background as possible without erasing any part of your body. Then use the Tap-To-Erase tool to delete any leftover background, like between your arm and body. Finally, clean up any left background that you couldn’t easily delete with the eraser tool.
How To Take Your Clothing Photos
Next, you’re going to take photos of yourself wearing each piece of clothing; then, you’ll erase your body and the background, so you’re left with the illusion of a floating 3D version of each clothing item. Take each photo from the same height and angle as your original mannequin photo. I used a tripod to make sure each image was photographed the same way.
Here are a few clothing photos before and after editing. This photo also illustrates the poses and styling techniques I recommend while taking clothing photos.
- What To Wear – You want to highlight the item you’re photographing, so keep everything else you wear very plain. I used a black tank top and leggings when photographing my items. I found that wearing solid colors made it easier to use Tap-To Erase to get rid of them.
- Poses – You want to pose in the same way as your mannequin photo. For long-sleeve, items pose with your arms in the same way as your mannequin picture. In my case, that was with my arms straight down. For short sleeves and sleeveless items, pose with your arms slightly away from your body so you can easily edit the image without your arms being in the way. When you photograph pants and skirts, make sure the waistband is visible and keep your arms out of the way.
- Photographing For Layers – I like to photograph my jackets, coats, and vests open so I can erase the middle; this gives a layered effect that looks more realistic.
- Styling – Style your clothes the way that you wear them. If you always wear a shirt tucked in or with the sleeves rolled up, make sure you photograph it that way. This will make the outfits look more realistic when you collage them.
- Efficient Editing – Crop each image closely to the piece of clothing before you start editing. Then use the slider to erase as much of the background as possible without erasing any part of your body or the clothes. Then use the Tap-To-Erase tool to delete yourself by tapping your skin. Finally, clean up any leftover areas with the eraser tool.
Using Store Photos or a Mannequin
Another alternative is to use your mannequin to photograph your clothes instead of wearing every piece. If you sew, you likely have a mannequin that is your size! I understand most people don’t have a mannequin, but if you do, it works well for sleeveless tops, dresses, and skirts. Long-sleeve tops and pants don’t work well because there isn’t anything to fill the sleeves or pant legs.
Here a few outfit collages I created in Stylebook using the virtual mannequin technique!
Unfortunately, this tip won’t work for everyone since many stores only photograph smaller clothing sizes, but if you happen to find store photos in you size, you can add store photos and use them with your virtual mannequin. I tried adding a few pieces from my favorite store, TheRealReal! This will allow you to try on clothes before you even buy them virtually.
If you’re wondering how that would look in real life, here are some videos! I made Stylebook outfits for a skirt I bought online using the store photo, and when it arrived I tried on the outfits to compare the Stylebook mannequin outfit to the real ones.
Ever notice how the mannequins in window displays in high end retail stores appear to standing without any visible means of support? Well there is a special technique to making this happen and it is called “striking a mannequin.”
Striking a mannequin simply means to make a mannequin appear to be standing without the support of a base by using wire. You can also use this technique if you have purchased a mannequin and it is missing a stand.
Below are written instructions and following that is a video which shows how it is down.
You will need to attach the wire to nails that will be hammered into the flooring. Hardware stores such as Home Depot sells a nail that
is double headed. You also need a 20 gauge wire, a wire that is too thin will not be strong enough to support the mannequin.
It will be easier to accomplish this task with two people, one as the mannequin holder and the other as the striker.
Take the wire while still on the spool, place under foot and pull approx. 120″, double the wire. Wrap the wire around the screw at the back of the mannequin.
Place the mannequin in the desired spot, have the striker spread the wires while touching the floor with the wire. The holder should slightly let go of the mannequin to check for balance.
You will need 2 nails, one for each end of the wire. You will have to find the wire placement which will allow the mannequin not to fall forward or backward.
Once that is accomplished, place the nails in those spots. Hammer the nail partially into the floor, wrap the end of wire around nail, finish hammering in the floor. If tight, it will sound almost like a guitar string. Repeat the same action with the other end of wire. There should be excess wire (always best to have more than less) Cut away the excess.
The last step should be to paint out the wire with the same color of the floor and back wall to give the illusion that the mannequin is free standing.
Here is a video we created to show you how it’s done.
Home Page › Forums › How Can I…? › Making a mold of a mannequin
- This topic has 10 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 7 years, 3 months ago by Katherine Swift .
This question comes through email by Jessica:
I am in the process of creating something which is going to require me to paint on a mannequin as a mold. I have heard of someone doing it before and it popped right off. I have an old mannequin torso that a retailer got rid of. However, after reading online, I discovered that mannequins are often made of fiberglass. I am planning on using polyester resin (I want it to remain clear, but slight yellowing is not an issue), and I fear it will stick to the mannequin because thats what they use to repair fiberglass boats. Is there any way I can use the mannequin as a mold and prevent the resin from sticking? I cant afford to make a silicone cast of it because it is a much larger project than jewelry. Also, how would I keep the resin from being cloudy as the surface will be exposed to air?
You are right in that the polyester resin is likely to stick to this mannequin. Even if you could get the cured polyester resin to come off, that casting wont be suitable as a mold because it isnt flexible enough to demold future castings.
While making a solid silicone mold would be incredibly expensive, you can use a brush on silicone to make a mold of the mannequin. You can then build a support structure for the mold to cast into. We dont sell any products that can do that, but I would instead refer you to the team at Smooth On (www.smooth-on.com). In fact, they have a video here on how to do this process on their you tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOyBawt1-Ec
Great, thank you. Since Id be molding on the outside and not the inside, how do you get the parts exposed to the air to cure and not remain tacky? Is some form of wax or additive necessary?
To clarify, I am not duplicating the mannequin itself, I am making something that could fit onto a mannequin (or person) that is body fitted like those sculpted armor plates you seen in movies 🙂
So it wouldnt be flat on either side
If you are using resin and mix it correctly, you shouldnt need any agent to help it so it isnt tacky.
In reading your update, I have a another comment/question:
Since you are creating something for the mannequin to wear, I would suggest making a model of that item(s) in clay, then casting the clay in silicone. You can then use that silicone mold to cast in resin. I dont see why the brush on silicone mentioned previously couldnt work here either.
Thank you. I just realized my mannequin is made out of HDPE, which is probably less problematic. Yay! However, I am using castin craft polyester resin (probably should have specified) and a lot of it will be exposed to air. I read on their website the parts exposed to air can remain soft and sticky. They have a spray, but someone said if it doesnt turn out just right it can turn it white :-o. I need it to be entirely clear because I am embedding tissue paper and thin objects. Any ideas how to prevent tackiness/cloudiness in the air exposed surface?
Thank you. I just realized my mannequin is made out of HDPE, which is probably less problematic. Yay! However, I am using castin craft polyester resin (probably should have specified) and a lot of it will be exposed to air. I read on their website the parts exposed to air can remain soft and sticky. They have a spray, but someone said if it doesnt turn out just right it can turn it white :-o. I need it to be entirely clear because I am embedding tissue paper and thin objects. Any ideas how to prevent tackiness/cloudiness in the air exposed surface?
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Whether you want to display clothing in your bedroom or in a retail store, using a wire mannequin is a simple way to show off clothing. Making your own wire mannequin is an inexpensive project, and after a trip to the hardware store for supplies, is fairly easy to do. Wire mannequins are also easily constructed in different shapes, from a large man down to a small child.
Measure the height, bust/chest, shoulder-to-shoulder length, arm length, waist, hips, inseam and shoulders-to-feet length of a person who is approximately the same size of the desired mannequin shape.
Cut a piece of wire netting as high as the height measurement plus 6 inches and as wide as the bust measurement plus 4 inches. Make a vertical cut starting from the bottom center as long as the inseam measurement – this will be for the legs.
Turn the edges of the wire netting piece inward to form a cylinder shape. Separately do the same with the two areas to form the legs.
Carefully bend the top of the larger cylinder with your fingers into a head shape, keeping in mind the shoulders-to-feet measurement. Give shape to the shoulders with the shoulder-to-shoulder length.
Mold the chest shape, the waist shape and the hips shape using the measurements and keeping the mannequin’s desired figure in mind.
Cut a piece of wire netting 8 inches wide and as long as the arm measurement plus 2 inches. Turn each piece inward to form a cylinder, and mold the arm shapes. Attach the arms with fuse wire to the main mannequin body.
Review the mannequin shape, and refine it with your hands, bending, shaping and molding to produce the desired effect.
Place the wire mannequin on top of a wood base (a square- or rectangle-shaped piece of wood). Set wire netting staples at the bottom of the wire mannequin, and hammer them in place to secure to the base. Paint the wood base if desired.
Introduction: Quick PVC Halloween Mannequin
Learn to make an easy and imposing Halloween mannequin from PVC for about $6. It packs flat (doesn’t add to your clutter), and holds costumes in ways sure to get a lot of attention from your halloween audience.
Once materials are gathered you can make this in about ten minutes, and kids can help!
for contributed photos, more detailed instructions, variations on this theme, PVC resources, and links to other PVC mannequins.
Step 1: Gather PVC Materials
# three six foot tubes of 1/2″ PVC (
# one bag of 1/2″ slip elbows (not threaded) (
$3 for ten)
# one bag of 1/2″ slip t-joints (not threaded) (
$2 for ten)
# a PVC tube cutter if you don’t have one (
# optional: roll of black plastic contractors plastic to cover frame ($13)
# optional: polyester fiber fill (from a craft store) ($5)
Lots of costume components! Masks, capes, clothing, etc.
Step 2: Assemble
The photos themselves show the assembly I used.
The base splays out in both directions to allow it to be weighted. I just used exercise weights or plates on the base.
The chest is made from three t-joints (joined with Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download
Step 3: Glue Key Joints, Add Bulk/Volume, Dress
Cement (gluing) is optional. The mannequin will stay together well if you take the time to push and lightly tap them into the joints with a hammer. If you want to take it apart, don’t glue it, but be warned that the parts near the base have a tendency to rotate forward and backward once weighted so gluing these bits may be advantageous. Even with the base glued you’ll still be able to take it apart for easy storage.
Use wadded up newspapers, light pillows, or polyester filter floss to add bulk and volume around body and inside mask and shoulders to give it some volume.
Dress with your favorite costume components and you’re done!
for contributed photos, more detailed instructions, variations on this theme, PVC resources, and links to other PVC mannequins. Thanks for reading!
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We needed something special for the display window in our new store. The shop features a window that is easily accessible from inside the store, with an opening large enough to accommodate a display that is almost one metre in diameter.We decided to make a Christmas Mannequin tree. I’ve seen them on Pinterest, and we did one last year, but I did not write a blog post about it. In fact, I didn’t think of taking pictures of it until it was all finished and inside the window. This year, I thought I would share the process of building the Christmas Mannequin Tree with you.
Here’s what you need:
- A mannequin to use for the top of the tree. We used a corset mannequin
- Fabric to drape on the bodice of the mannequin or something to cover her chest. Last year, I wrapped fabric to simulate a strapless dress. This year, I used the corset I bedazzled.
- You’ll need a whole bunch of tree boughs. Denise cut down a wayward cedar tree in her yard so we had lots of boughs to work with. It takes a LOT of boughs and some sturdy pruning shears to cut them into manageable size pieces
- 2 pool noodles and duct tape to form them into a circle. This makes the base of the tree
- Chicken wire. This year, we chose fibreglass chicken wire with 1/2″ holes. It is cheap and easy to cut with household scissors (not the good Kair shears!) The only downside to the fibreglass wire is that it does not stand up on its own. It’s only 1 metre tall so you are limited to how tall your tree can be. Last year, we used real metal chicken wire and it was not easy to cut and work with. On the plus side, it could stand up on its own.
- T-pins to pin the skirt to the mannequin
- Duct tape…because. Duct Tape
- String or cord to cinch in the waist
- About 1/3 yard or .3 metres of fabric for a sash
- Christmas lights. Last year, we used small tree lights, but this year, I managed to find the Microdot lights at Home Hardware! This was my most exciting find this year!
- Ornaments and trimmings – whatever you want
Start by forming the pool noodles into a circle and fastening them with the duct tape. Yes, I wanted green noodles, not pink. I considered myself lucky to find pool noodles at all in November! I suppose I could have used a hula hoop.
We used two rounds of fibreglass chicken wire to form the base for the boughs. Like I said, the non-metal chicken wire does not stand up on its own. That’s why the 2 layers. We used strong clear packing tape to tape the wire to the pool needles (pink duct tape was getting expensive!) Dress the top of the mannequin, then put on the chicken wire base. Tighten it around her hips by threading some lacing cord and drawing it tight. The chicken wire is not very tall, so the skirt sits at the hips and not the waist. More than a few T-pins helped to hold the skirt to the mannequin.
Then we attached the cedar boughs to the skirt. Start at the bottom and work up. It is easy to feed the small branches into the fibreglass chicken wire. We allowed the branches to hang lower than the pool noodles so they would be hidden. No one will see the pink pool noodles once the Christmas Mannequin tree is finished!
We ran out of boughs when we were almost finished! We will tuck the boughs into the bare spots tomorrow. But in the meantime, we added the microdot lights (there are 300 of them) and pinned on the hip sash. We also wheeled her closer to the front of the store. We didn’t dare go onto that floor until Rebecca’s fresh wax had dried!
So far, so good. I made the hip sash out of some royal blue satin that was the end of a roll. I serged the long side to make a tube, then arranged it on and pinned it to the form. I am not showing you the corset part of the Christmas mannequin tree until it is all done!
The next day, Denise came with the rest of the boughs and we finished the skirt. We also decided that fuchsia was a better colour for the sash than the royal blue. Sorry Rebecca! Now for the decorations!
Here she is finished!
Into the window, she goes! All done in lots of time for our Open House, December 9! We hope you will make a trip to come see our new store and the Christmas Mannequin Tree. And us, of course. We want you to come to see us, too!
- Professional Tips: On How to Dress a Mannequin
Posted by Mannequin Mode on 14th Jul 2017
Dressing a mannequin for the first time can be an intimidating task. The following will outline how to dress a basic standing mannequin along with few pro-tips along the way. In addition, I will also give some tips on how to approach dressing seated and other odd positioned mannequins.
Once you’ve purchased the perfect mannequin from mannequinmode.com that reflects your brand image the first task is choosing the perfect outfit to remember it is ALL about the clothing. your mannequin is the canvas to the art of dressing.
Take your time choosing, every decision of what to dress your mannequin with needs to relate to your customer.
It can be adventurous or conservative, colors that match (or not), throw in an accessory . it all needs to work for you.
Once you have chosen your outfit(s), do as follows:
1. If needed, steam the clothes and hang them up on a rack to prepare to keep all the outfits together.
2. Remove the tags (if they can’t be hidden) find a safe place to keep them as they will be needed (a pocket, in a shoe etc). Just in case you want to sell the outfit.
3. Prepare your mannequin for dressing (tip: if you have never used this specific mannequin take it apart carefully taking care on how you remove the parts, then put it back together without clothing as practice). Dismantle the mannequin:
– depending on what parts need to be removed, lay them next to where they need to be re-attached on the floor.
– The arms, hands, legs, torso, and base should all be separated and placed carefully on a soft surface. Mannequins can get damaged very easily if you’re not careful. Getting a scratch or a chip on its face requires a very expensive and time-consuming repair job.
4. First, dress the bottom (pant or skirt) and shoes. You’ll find it easier to put them on with the mannequin feet sticking up and the waist on the ground. (Some of the newer mannequins have a spring in the leg attachment allowing the legs to be pushed together with a little bit of pressure, enough to slip pants on without taking the legs off. If so, proceed. If not, you’ll have to remove the legs (or one leg) from each other (or torso) and re-attach them once the pants are at the right position. This is usually the hardest part so don’t be shy to ask someone for help. Finish them off with any footwear you might be using. (Pro-tip #1 If the legs of the mannequin are close enough together so that you can slide a pair of pants on without taking them apart leave them attached).
5. Now attach the legs to the floor base. It’s important to know beforehand if you will be using shoes, socks or stockings on the mannequin as mannequins come with different options to attach the legs to the base. A calf rod is the most common when using footwear as they stay clear from the foot/shoe. Foot rods are commonly used when showing the mannequin barefoot (some retailers will use the foot attachment even if they use shoes, this is done to hide all mannequin hardware but entails placing a hole in the shoe).
6. Now after the legs are attached to the base and standing upright place torso on the legs without the arms and dress it with whatever you’ve picked out.
7. Start with under layers first as you would when dressing yourself. When putting on layers of long sleeved clothing insert the sleeves into each other (see image). All buttons and zippers should remain undone. (Pro tip #2: If you’re dressing a realistic mannequin be sure to take off the wig and place a plastic bag over the mannequins head to avoid scuffing the face or putting hair and eyelashes out of place).
8. Next, one at a time, thread the arms through the neck into the sleeve, wrist first (without the hands) and attach them to the upper body. This can be an awkward task and often very frustrating depending on how many layers you’re using and how tight the garments are (Pro tip #3 to make it easier for dressing layers you can use larger sizes and pin them afterward. larger sizes have more room in the arm holes). If you’re having trouble make sure there is no excess material from the clothing stuck between the arm and the torso as the arm will not connect. (Pro-tip #4 One or two arms of a button up shirt or jacket can sometimes be slid on mannequin arms while already attached if they are straight to the side of the mannequin).
9. The final touch is “finishing” the mannequin and it can be a task in itself. If needed, put on the wig and make sure it’s styled.
– Take a look at the outfit and see if it needs any more steaming.
– Make sure you button & zip everything that needs to be up & that all the seams of the clothing are in the right place.
– You want to make the mannequin look like it’s living in the clothing. Pinning the clothing so it better fits the mannequin is always an option if it can be hidden from the customer (in store mannequins can be pinned from the inside of the clothing to be kept from view)
– Some small treatments like rolling up the sleeves, popping the collar, tucking in the front (or half the front) of a t-shirt and adding accessories can make your outfit stand out.
– Lastly stand back and look at your dressed mannequin. does it looks like you wanted.
Some mannequins that can add drama to your displays can very difficult to dress and might not be able to wear certain garments (if they have exaggerated poses). Sitting mannequins as an example are harder to add pants/ tight jeans and often need much larger sizes than their actual size to work. Some bent arms can be troublesome as well. Often these mannequin will have different fittings from a standard mannequin and it will be impossible to add multiple layers or pants. You’ll have to learn the limitations of these mannequins and dress them appropriately.
If you need more help in dressing the mannequin, please see the below video.
Stay turned for our next blog, the subject will be “Plus Sized Mannequin Trend”.
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Make Your Own Shape Sewing Mannequin so that you can make the perfect tops and dresses which fit your body perfectly. This DIY sewing mannequin project is an easy and creative way for our sew lovers with perfect tailoring. The original source is in Germany (full tutorial of how to make Your Own Shape Sewing Mannequin). The photos explain the whole process clearly, here we simply illustrate the steps in English for better understanding. Enjoy this fabulous idea and diy project for this weekend.
Supplies you need:
- Polyester filling for stuffing
- A metal base
- 2-3 rolls of duct tape
- Apiece of cardboard
- An old hip-length T-shirt
- A food foil (for the neck)
Wear a tight body t-shirt with the length under hip, wrap your neck with a fod foil to secure it (as shown on the picture). Wrap your silhouette with the duct tape. First stripe under your breasts (make sure it is tight enough). Next stripes crossed in between the breasts as shown on the picture.
Carefully take off the part of the food foil that covers your neck and make some kind of a “tape collar” as you can see on the picture. Finish the first part when you gain the effect of new, “tape t-shirt”. This is how it should look like at the back. Wrap more tape evenly from your waist till the end of your t-shirt line, do it tight!
July 01, 2016 3 min read
Our company has been in the business of selling mannequins for quite some time, we’ve seen a lot, we grew and we learned a lot. With this thought in mind, we considered that it would be interesting for us to share some of the “behind the scenes” information with our customers and readers.
Continuing this train of thought we want to share with you how mannequins are made and some information on what custom mannequins are. This, we are sure will offer you support with your buying decisions. It is important to take these facts into consideration because a mannequin can “make or break” a display, as the saying goes.
In The Beginning
The word mannequin comes from the French language and means in fact “an artist’s model”. In early years, it was attributed to fashion models in the UK.
The first mannequins are documented to go as far back as the 15th century and they were used to display fashion items to customers, just as today. They had a miniature form, reason for which they were called “milliners’ mannequins”. Further along the path of time, namely in the mid-18th century, in Paris, mannequins become full scale and are made from wicker and wire.
Still in France, at the middle of the 19 century, the first ever papier mache mannequin came to life. Later on, the preferred material for making mannequins became wax, because it gave them a more lifelike appearance. Soon enough, by 1920, the wax used to make the mannequins was substituted with plaster, offering more durability.
As technology progressed, mannequins also evolved and now they can be crafted from a wide variety of materials, but the most important ones remain fiberglass(1940) and plastic. The difference between these two is the production cost and overall appearance, thus, fiberglass mannequins which are much more realistic, are more expensive than the plastic ones.
During the 1980s and 1990s, for example, the faceless and headless mannequins became more popular and much more affordable because they don’t require hair and make-up.
In order to make a mannequin, you have to have the right tools, materials and of course time.
For a single mannequin, you need minimally a month, it might seem like a tedious process, but high-quality products demand focus and an impressive level of detail. But this kind of process refers exclusively to figurative sculptures.
The process of making a sculpted mannequin is documented by Len Gifford, one of the artistic minds that work for Rootstein. “The Making of Laura” is the actual story behind making a figurative sculpture, which is used further on to create mannequin casts.
The pose of the sculpture is decided, after which photos and measurements are taken. Using these measurements an aluminum body is created on which wood and wet clay is attached. The head, hands and feet are added to the frame and the detailing process begins. After the clay sculpture is finished, they move on to create casts from this beautiful model’s parts.
Another process to obtain the perfect store mannequin is by making a mold of a real human being. It sounds a bit sinister, we know, but how else do you expect to achieve anatomical accuracy and perfection?
Fiberglass is the standard material used in the creation of gorgeous mannequins that help retailers sell their products and create fascinating designs and windows displays, simply because it is lightweight and can be perfectly sculpted to specific requirements. It is also the best material to work with in the sense that it allows mass-production of realistic mannequins that include very fine details such as make-up, muscles, distinct facial features, abstract mannequins that allow for the use of imagination and of course for separate body parts that serve only a specific function at a time.
This type of material doesn’t offer the same durability as wood for example but it certainly can withstand some external factors(weather, certain types of damages).
Here is an example of how to make a silicone mold of a mannequin that can be used further to make new ones.
Since there are numerous types of mannequins out there we can look at different ways in which they can be created. For instance flexible or foam mannequins have a completely different process, realized with the aid of machines.
The video below explains how foam mannequins are made, so you have a better understanding of where their flexibility comes from.
We invite you to browse our beautiful and high-quality mannequin selection to find the perfect ones for your retail store and window displays.
A mannequin doll refers to a dummy model which can be found and used everywhere. Usually speaking, it’s made from plastic and Styrofoam. If your kids are fond of it, you can make a mini-doll by yourself at home. 8 steps will be introduced below on how to make it.
There are the following two advantages why do we choose to make a dummy doll at home. On the one hand, it can improve manipulative ability and creative abilities. On the other hand, it’s a good way to strengthen your parent-offspring relationship through communication during the manufacturing process.
Step 1: Prepare materials and equipment needed
Everything’s hard in the beginning, and a good beginning ensures a good result. Before we get started making a mannequin doll , we need to make a list of materials and equipment needed. Wire, scissors, papers, watercolors, cloth, and so on are all needed. If you want your hand-made dummy more realistic and gorier, you can prepare some acrylic paint.
Step 2: find a dummy model
Before you write a passage, you need to outline it. In the same way, you need to get a model before you make a real one. You can search online to find a doll model you and your kids like. It’s advised not to be too intricate for the first time making. After finding the suitable one, you can print it out or draw it out. Then, measure the size of it.
Step 3: make the framework
A wire is needed to outline the mannequin doll . We can use the wire to make the shape of the head, body, legs, arms, and feet. Then put them together. Then we need to wrap the wire with tapes for the legs and arms to make it more vivid. A general skeleton is finished by now.
Step 4: fill the frame
Clay is needed here to cover the padded area. The head and torso are the main places where need to be filled. For the head, you can make a round ball, and press it with your hands a little. Then add muscles for the body. Just consult the real man to make the waist, chest, and hip. The different parts of the body should be well proportioned.
Step 5: perfect the details
The facial features matter a lot for the whole process. To make it more authentic, you need to make the mouth, nose, eyes, fingers, and so on more stereoscopic. Let’s take eyes for example. Just cut away a hole first, and then put a round ball as the eyeball. It should be colored to form the pupils. Eyebrows and eyelashes are also necessary. Hair can be used as the material for them.
Step 6: reprocessing the clay
As the clay is soft and wet when we use it, we need to bake and dry it to make it more hard and strong for better and longer preservation. During the process, pay more attention to the hardness to avoid cracks.
Step 7: paint the dummy
For the skin color, there are 4 options: dark skin, fairer skin, natural beige skin, and Asian skin. You can paint the mannequin doll according to your preference. Make sure the color of the body is the same as the head. You can make up it at the same time. You don’t need to use real makeup, just watercolors, and acrylic paint. Try to avoid black on the mouth which will be unreal.
Step 8: add hair and clothing
You can make a small-size wig to put on it. Long hair is recommended, as it can be used to make different types of hairstyles. You can also paint the hair in different colors if you like. Then it comes to the clothing. All kinds of doll clothes are sold online, and you can just buy what you like. You can also make it by yourself. That would be more interesting and valuable.
You can just make a wonderful mannequin doll according to the above 8 steps. The dummy doll you made can also be sent to your friends as gifts. Your children need your presence more than your presents. It will be an unforgettable and valuable experience for you and your kids.
I’ve decided to sew a few outfits for my Iplehouse Jessica. This means that I would have to use my doll every time I want to try clothes on her. But, first of all, Jessica is big and quite heavy and it is not very convenient for me to use her.
At the second, I afraid to leave scratches on her face up or body with pins during the process. What to do in this situation? I’ve decided that I need a doll dressmakers mannequin!
I have done an extensive research about dressmakers mannequins. I know the technology with duck tape and polyurethane foam because a friend of mine used this technology for her own foam mannequin around 6-7 years ago. But I don’t know where to buy polyurethane foam in a country where I live now. I found only some silicon hermetic but in this case doll dress form would be like a jelly and it’s not suitable for sewing. Also, floating measurements in mm are not fatal for people but may be fatal for dolls especially if I sew corsets.
For all these reasons I decided to make the doll mannequin using the papier mache technology.
Below are the steps I followed:
Make doll mannequin front part
First of all, I protected Jessica’s body with cling wrap, then put masking tape to future seams and marked them. This was really pointless (to mark seams – not to protect the doll!) as I realized later.
Then I mixed white glue and water in 1:1 proportion. I used a newspaper for first layer. I tore small pieces of newspaper, dunk them in water and glue mix and then glued to Jessica’s body (as you remember it was protected by cling wrap).
I let the newspaper layer dry. Then I used toilet paper for the second layer. I tore pieces of toilet paper and separated toilet paper layers. So I got very thin pieces of paper.
I made 8 layers of paper and I think this is enough for a doll mannequin. Because it takes time for layers to dry, it took more than a week to make all 8 layers!
When my papier mache billet dried I took it off. I didn’t bother about the edges because I knew I would cut them off. As you can see I drew the future side seam on the billet.
Make dress form back
What did I do next? Just repeated all steps above on Jessica’s back 🙂
Assembly the dressmakers mannequin
When I got two billets, one from the front and another one from the back, I cut off the edges and glued both billets together on shoulder and side seams.
Then I drew the waist, the hip and the neck lines and trimmed off the edges againat the neckline and bottom line. I trimmed off the armholes as well.
After that, I circled the neckline hole and bottom one on the cardboard and cut the details out from the cardboard.
Next, I glued the neck and the bottom cardboard details to their places. Now my mannequin looked more tidy. Next I was going to glue it on a candlestick so I really needed the bottom for the mannequin.
I can use my doll mannequin now. But, firstly, I’m about to sew a cover from calico and, secondly, glue it to the candlestick.
To anyone who suspects they’d feel uncomfortable waking in the middle of the night to the sight of a shadowy, headless silhouette propped up on a lamp-stand in the corner of their bedroom: you need not read on. To be honest, I’ve only had my mannequin for a few days and it’s already terrified me twice.
There is, of course, a reason that I now own a mannequin in the first place. A reason I fully attribute to my sister Meggie’s example, who long ago hand-crafted one to her own body, and has used it in smart, budget savvy ways ever since.
When it comes to clothing alteration, my sister’s ingenuity has always been a source of inspiration. For starters, the girl’s a magician with a clearance rack. She finds amazing deals in sizes that aren’t her own (often way too large), brings the clothing home, and alters them—with the help of the personal measurements of her mannequin. By using a template of her own body, she can both alter the dress and be fitfor the dressat the same time. Is your mind blown yet?!
Below are some instructions for this ultimately simple, crafty undertaking:
Things You’ll Definitely Need
- Shameless, unbridled enthusiasm
- The willingness to look ridiculous
- A trusty assistant who is patient and also not overly protective of their personal space
Other Essential Items
- Fitted T-shirt (the longer its length, the longer your mannequin can be)
- Duct tape (3 rolls, any color)
- Paper towels (plastic wrap works great too)
- Foam board (1 sheet)
- “Fiberfill” AKA polyester pillow fluff (2 bags—you can find this at your local craft store)
- Either a very sturdy hanger (as seen in the video), or the base of an old lamp. I recommend using an ultra cheap lamp-base from a thrift store and snipping off all the wires
- Your personal choice of fabric (optional)
Follow the video for the basic premise, but feel free to veer off and make your own decisions. Remember: while mannequin-making does involve an understanding of basic anatomy and physiology, this is not rocket science. For example, instead of hanging my mannequin up by a hanger, I opted to use an old lamp-stand (a la Meggie’s advice) so that it could stand erect, the way traditional mannequins do. Since this strategy requires a firmer, more substantial base, I taped a fitted piece of foam board to the bottom, instead of just duct tape.
Once this foam-board base was secured to my mannequin, I poked what felt like a barbarically-large hole in its center and pretty much harpooned my mannequin with the lampshade. Again, this will only be possible after snipping the lamp’s wires and removing any remnants of its electrical past (it should now look like a bare pole with a stand).
A few embarrassing snapshots of the process:
1. plastic wrap stage / 2. duct taped / 3. getting cut out! / 4. pre-assembly
Since I found the whole exposed-duct-tape look a bit creepy, I decided to hot glue-gun fabric to the mannequin in order to end with a more polished finish.
Courtney Kampa is from Virginia, and has an MFA from Columbia University. Her poetry has received awards from The Atlantic, Poets & Writers Magazine, North American Review, and elsewhere. She has worked as a writer for Seventeen Magazine, lobbied at the United Nations, and modeled for Levis Jeans.
If you were around the interwebs leading up to Christmas, you probably saw the mannequins-turned-christmas-tree. Here’s one example.
When a friend shared this with me, I was quite excited to try it out myself, but all of the how-to’s I found had elaborate steps with obscure materials I didn’t have the time or know-how for. This is how I went about creating my own, just so you all have another option. Whatever you have to work with, I bet you can figure it out with a little persistence and creativity 🙂
My Main Supplies
- Dress Form
- Old Christmas Tree
- Dress Top & Tree Decor
I saved the Dress Form from the junkyard, got an old tree from new friends, and got the top & decor by thrift shopping. Hopefully you’ll find everything as easily as I did, but in case you need help with the dress form and have some money to spare, you can always buy one here: http://www.mannequinmadness.com/collections/dress-forms
Step 1, detach the tree branches.
I was lucky enough to be given an old tree with hooked branches. Like so:
The branches were attached to the tree, not just hooked on, but thankfully I had a boyfriend handyman who used a drill to detach it.
See that wire fake-tree garland wrapped around the middle bar? That’s important! I saved that too.
Step 2: Get that fake-tree garland off the bar
This part wasn’t supposed to be difficult. It certainly wasn’t supposed to be tedious. Just untwist it, right? Wrong. Ya know how they keep it all on there? Hair. Okay, maybe that’s not really what it is, but just look at it. Appearance and texture of hair.
After much cutting, detangling, unknotting, and unwrapping of all this hair, I would be blessed with some tiny fluff branches (also important) and the garland.
This is the approximate ratio of hair-to-branch:
Step 3: Compile the tree-skirt
This is the main work.
- (Have top on the dress form already, so that it will be “tucked in” to the tree-skirt.)
- Wrap the garlands around the dress form, and twist tight for hold. One garland should be at about waist level, the other at about hip level.
- Hook the branches, first at hip level, then at waist level, varying branch length at random.
- Hide excess gaps with the little fluff branches as needed.
At this point my tree looked something like this:
Step 4: Decorate
Then it’s just the final touches. Fluffing out branches that lie flat, or pushing down branches that jut out weird. Adding ornaments or ribbon or accessories to give it some final flare. Making the tree look something like this. Isn’t she a beaut?
Did you ever wonder how to make a dress form cover? I did, and every idea I found was more complicated than the other. This is the easiest how-to to cover a sewing mannequin in new fabric and make it so beautiful it will fit in your decor.
This is my adjustable dress form (re-re-covered). Her name is Bertha. Bertha and I have some things in common, like dress size. Though I’d like to think that -unlike her – I have a good head over my shoulders.
I always wanted to have a friend like Bertha, to sew some nice clothes together and try my garments on her… But friends like Bertha are expensive, so when I found I could have her for less than $100 plus shipping, I decided it was time.
Bertha ‘s an adjustable dress form, a very basic one. She’s not pinnable (bummer) and is covered in some ugly gray flannel on top of her plastic frame.
You can see the gaps where the adjustable plates join, on top of that, the gaps are more pronounced after I adjusted her to my size (I am bustier). I needed to do something about it.
How to make a DIY adjustable dress form cover
Unfortunately, though I searched all over the internet, I couldn’t find anything about how to cover a dress form that wasn’t super complicated. Then this occurred to me. The process to make this dressform cover was simple, and the photos were self-explanatory.
- You’ll need some stretchy fabric (Jersey or ribbed knit works best).
- Cover the front of the dressform with the fabric, pinning alongside the side join (where the back and front plate meet), stretching as needed so it “hugs” the form tightly.
- Then mark the cutting line between the pins. Cut piece. Repeat to make the back piece.
- Join the two pieces by sewing the seams with the overcast machine. Serge the hem with looser threads.
- Pass a thick cotton thread through loops in the hem.
- Tighten and gather the fabric at the bottom. Tie the threads.
How to adjust the cover
The simplest way I’ve adjusted it was by putting on a bra under the new cover, which I padded to fill it to my larger bust. This type of adjustable dressforms can also be made into larger sizes, by separating the plates. I did not find it necessary in my case.
This is the second DIY mannequin stretch cover I made for her, following the same process.
While Bertha is not a pinnable dress form, the two layers of fabric (the pink one is underneath) means I can pin the fabric to the new cover in a pinch. So it’s not only a matter of looking better.
The blue dress form mannequin covers with the beautiful blue fabric with flower print makes it look so good that it fits in with my decor, and I can use it to model my work-in-progress, or serve as a pretty mannequin to model my other work.
I can now also wash her cover when necessary, and now that I see how easy this was, I can buy other fabrics and make a nice cover at any time. This may be the easiest DIY cover for a dress form yet.
Bertha hasn’t said anything about her new looks (she’s a shy girl), but I can tell she looks happier. What do you think?
Get a sewing dress form mannequin
Adjustable mannequins have the advantage that you can change their size to fit your size, and change them as needed. These are good options that you can purchase.
- Adjustable dressform with Tri-Pod Stand Adjustable, Petite, Red
- Dritz My Double Designer Medium Adjustable Dress Form, Ivory
- Dritz Sew Opal Green You Adjustable Dress Form, Medium or Large
- FAMILY DRESSFORM Gray Small Adjustable Mannequin Dress Form Grey
Make you own dressform
If you do not want to buy an adjustable dressform, or want something that more faithfully fit your figure, there are several DIY option available, and I share the ones I liked the most here:
The Dance Mannequin projects a hologram image of a character performing various dance emotes.
Use the Dance Mannequin device to project a hologram image of a character performing various dance emotes .
You can create unique dance mannequins by combining a wide selection of character skins , emotes, and device colors.
Finding and Placing the Device
Click image to enlarge.
Click the Devices tab. You can scroll to select the device, use the Search box to look up the device by name, or check the [List relevant categories to specific device] Categories in the panel on the left.
Click PLACE NOW to place immediately, or put the device in the QUICK BAR to place later.
Press Esc to return to your island in Build mode. Use your phone to position the device, then click to place it. Press F to switch to your pickaxe and detach the device from your phone tool. Press the Backtick (`) key to switch back to your phone.
Point at the device with your phone. If the Customize popup doesn’t open immediately, move closer until it does, then press E to open the Customize panel.
This device has some basic functionality, like changing the character skin and emote, adding a strobe light, and changing the device color. Additionally, there are some advanced options, like selecting extra character skins and emotes to be swapped after being activated by a channel.
You can configure this device with the following options.
If you just can’t find the perfect mannequin or simply want something that’s unique for your store, custom made mannequins are a viable solution. After years of working with retailers large and small, we’ve learned that we can’t supply every possible combination of features, materials and designs when it comes to mannequins so we’ve perfected a process of designing and manufacturing mannequins in lines with specific customer needs & requests.
From ultra realistic mannequins and abstract, functional mannequin designs to very specific mannequin builds for professional use, made out of materials chosen based on the environment of usage and what the mannequin is going to be used for, we deliver custom mannequins as a business solution, not just as a retail item.
Flexible & open towards your needs:
- Creating a truly unique design based on your requirements – guaranteed to stand out.
- Working with a wide range of materials – from polyurethane to plastic & metal.
- Developing functional features such as swappable faces, detachable parts etc.
- Building mannequins of all shapes (or only parts such as torsos) and sizes.
- Serving orders ranging from small batches (50-100) to thousands of mannequins.
Building a custom mannequin (or more) based on a specific human model is also possible, although it requires a more complex photo shoot in a professional studio.
Have You Checked Our Inventory First?
While we’re more than happy to talk about custom mannequin orders, we advise you to browse our inventory first. Custom mannequins always carry a higher price tag, require you to be very involved in the planning process and depending on your requirements, they can take a lot of time until they’re actually on display at your business. That’s why we never push customers towards custom mannequins, unless they are 100% sure there isn’t a better option.
Hundreds of models to choose from
With nearly 1.000 mannequin models, ranging from retail-oriented products such as realistic mannequins, abstract mannequins etc. to professional mannequins such as photography mannequins, tailor’s dummies etc.
Before deciding to go the custom made way, also take into consideration that we might be able to find the next best thing for you and as a mannequin supplier, when it comes to wholesale mannequins, we’re able to offer fast shipping and discounts up to 40% depending on the volume of your order.
Our Approach To Custom Mannequins
Having designed, sourced, manufactured and supplied mannequins and dress forms to thousands of customers all over the US, we’ve slowly built a network of partners, manufacturers and suppliers that enable us to offer the best solution, in a reasonable time frame, at a great price when it comes to mannequins and custom mannequins.
In the same time, we’ve managed to streamline a process when in comes to delivering custom mannequins as a business solution. Basically, these are the broad phases we will go through in order to get you the mannequins with the specifications you desire:
1. Defining requirements and consulting
2. Drafts, designs, renders and approval
3. Molding and manufacturing mannequins
4. Quality assurance and finishing touches
5. Shipping to your location(s)
At the end of this process, we guarantee that you’ll have mannequins that will meet or even exceed your expectations.
New Customer? Get A Discount On Your First Order
Sign up for our email list today for a discount on your first order:
Mannequins have long been a popular way to display apparel in retail stores because customers can easily visualize entire outfits, fully accessorized. But mannequins are costly. If you don’t have the budget to buy a bevy of traditional full-sized “dummies,” there are more affordable mannequin alternatives you can use to create wonderfully varied and eye-catching apparel displays.
Here are some mannequin alternatives that will fit your store’s personality as well as your budget:
Used by professional dressmakers to custom-tailor designs, these headless-but shapely forms also work nicely to display blouses and dresses. You can adjust their height and easily move them around on their rolling stand. Some dress forms are expandable, and there are even styles for pants. Most are covered in fabric, so you can choose colors/patterns that dress up your shop as well as your merchandise. But you can also find dress forms made of paper mache. If you’re a DIY’er, you could even make your own.
Unlike flat hangers, these have shape, allowing you to display clothing in a dimensional way without using a standard mannequin. Costumers and display hangers can be full-body or just specific components. They can be free-standing, but there are also table-top and wall-mounted versions.
Flexible Rod Forms
Though not as realistic as a true mannequin, these forms are made of flexible, padded rods that can be dressed and arranged in almost any pose.
Sometimes you don’t even want an entire human form. If you sell stockings or socks, necklaces, bracelets and/or rings, gloves, shoes and boots, etc. you might need only these body parts:
- Hands and arms
- Ankle and foot
Partial mannequins are available in a wide variety of materials, either in fixed poses or with flexibility so you can pose them yourself.
These male or female mannequin components fit inside apparel items, giving them invisible human form. The clothes appear to be floating in mid-air. You can combine or use separate torso sections, arms, hands, or legs as well as V- or round-neck layers.
Racks allow you to hang a full selection of colors and sizes in very limited space. While they don’t help customers visualize shapeliness, they do make it easy to handle the items and read the tags.
Display Tables and Shelves
Flat surfaces are great for foldable apparel. Like racks, they don’t show off items “in the round,” but they do encourage customers to pick up the merchandise and examine it closely. Shelves put items at eye level, tables put merchandise at hand level.
Baskets or Bins
Containers work well for some kinds of smaller items such as accessories. Put them on the floor, at knee level, or even on the display table.
With clever combinations of affordable mannequin alternatives, you can create intriguing multi-level displays that invite customers to visualize the possibilities, step closer, and examine the goods.
Shopping for clothes can be filled with anxiety. We all have different shapes and for many, the perfect fit is a distant dream. What if you could get a perfect fit every time?
This Duct Tape Mannequin Tutorial from Burda is pure genius! Now you can recreate your body shape and have your very own custom mannequin. You’ll wonder how you got by without it!
This is ideal for those that love to make their own patterns and it’s great for alterations when it comes to store- bought purchases too. The best part, it’s inexpensive to make.
As a result, if your shape changes, you can make another one! We found this idea on a German Website and the photos are easy to follow.
Duct Tape Mannequin Tutorial Video
via Hannah Fawke, Youtube.
Are you ready to learn how to make your own custom size mannequin? We have included an easy to follow video tutorial that will step you through the process. We highly recommend that you view to achieve the best results. Click Play above now to view ^
How To Make Duct Tape Mannequin
As mentioned earlier, we found this fantastic idea on Burdastyle. They have an excellent photo tutorial on their website. They also outline what the materials you will need to recreate it at home.
April 30, 2019 4 min read
There is far from than just one type of mannequin that you can use in your store. In fact, there are multiple types of mannequins that can be used for a wide range of displays.
Plus, mannequins influence the visual merchandising in your retail store. Use the following tips to determine the correct types of mannequins for you, your store and your personal profits. Get ready to expand your ability to experiment and explore the opportunities for additional profit.
Types of Mannequins
Here are some of the most popular types of mannequins for retail and fashion photography.
- Realistic Mannequins : As the name suggests, realistic mannequins are natural looking and relatively life-like. They depict humans in the most accurate way possible.
- Abstract mannequins : Abstract mannequins are more closely related to works of art than realistic-looking mannequins. They have a minimalistic design in their approach, leaving fingernails, muscles and facial features off.
- Headless mannequins : Not-surprisingly, headless mannequins do not have heads, and therefore there is more emphasis on the clothing and their body shapes.
- Dress forms : Dress forms are typically void of features and crafted for fashion design. They can be adjusted for fitting garments and are generally very durable, rather than made to look appealing or realistic.
Style of Mannequins
There are multiple styles of mannequins that fall into the categories of the above mannequin types.
- Sexy mannequins : Sexy mannequins are hyper realistic and typically for lingerie or adult shops only. They may accentuate the female form with an ample figure that is appealing.
- Sporty mannequins : Athletically built or sporty mannequins are specifically designed to be placed in active poses for yoga, sports or gym wear.
- Colored mannequins : Mannequins can come in black, chrome, gold, brightly colored and even clear shades, for different store themes and styles.
Below are even more details about the various types of mannequins.
Ghost Mannequins and How to Use Them
Ghost mannequins are great for a wide variety of retail store owners. They are easy to take apart and put back together, appear to be sleek and professional and highlight clothing extremely well.
Most ghost mannequins come on a rolling base, making them easy to maneuver and reposition depending on your ever-changing display. Because ghost mannequins typically have interchangeable limbs and other sections of the body, it is easy to personalize your mannequin based on your outfit or display .
Finally, ghost mannequins are often made of fiberglass, making them durable and long-lasting.
Ghost mannequins focus on the customer, showcasing the clothing on the mannequin without distracting the customer with other aspects of a full size or realistic looking mannequin.
Realistic Mannequins and How to Use Them
Realistic mannequins are ideal for displaying higher-quality clothing, lingerie or displays that need the look and feel of a real human rather than something false. Realistic mannequins typically have fiberglass skin that resembles a human being, making them look higher-class and more expensive than a dress form or ghost mannequin.
Realistic mannequins are specifically designed to help customers envision clothing on themselves better than they ever could on another kind of mannequin. Try a realistic mannequin for a window display or for displaying clothes.
Adjustable Mannequins and How to Use Them
Adjustable mannequins are — obviously — easy to work with in most situations. Being able to adjust the arms, legs and pose of a mannequin makes them easy to customize, depending on the display in your storefront or inside your store. It makes dressing and undressing easy so you can routinely shift your visual merchandising displays. Having one or two adjustable mannequins in your storefront makes it simple to switch up your display without changing every piece of it.
Adjustable mannequins are also great for stores that hold not just women’s, but also men’s clothing, and not just smaller sizes but plus-sized clothing as well. It offers plenty of opportunities to make changes and customize your pieces.
Sport or Soccer Mannequins and How to Use Them
Clearly, sport and soccer mannequins are best for stores that sell athletic clothing, but that isn’t the only case.
Athleisure clothing is becoming one of the most loved fashion styles in modern fashion. Categorized by easy-to-move-in fabrics that are great for sports and other recreational activities, athleisure-wear is becoming common across a wide range of fashion stores and brands.
With sport and soccer mannequins, you can display the breathability and movement of the athletic clothing you carry.
Another great use for a soccer mannequin is in a sports-themed display. Maybe it’s fall and you want to highlight soccer and football season, or perhaps you just want to highlight your athletic clothing. Either way, soccer mannequins are the best mannequins for these displays.
Glass Mannequins and How to Use Them
There are many different materials with which mannequins can be made. Fabric, plastic and canvas are the most common, but glass mannequins can add a level of sophistication and high-class taste that will sell expensive clothing.
Glass mannequins are also great for displays that would otherwise be overwhelmed by the look of plastic or fiberglass mannequins. Glass mannequins allow the clothing to shine through, not the fake human bodies.
Glass mannequins can, understandably, be far heavier than mannequins of other materials and may break a bit easier as well. The results and the look and feel of these mannequins, however, are worth the hassle.
The best way to choose the right mannequins for your store is to learn all of the types of mannequins that you can purchase and then decide what is best for your specific displays and merchandise. There is no single best mannequin out there; learn everything there is about glass mannequins, adjustable mannequins, ghost mannequins and much more to make an informed decision. Once you experiment, you can make your retail store better each day.
Would you like to know how to create a ghost mannequin effect in Photoshop? If you would like to know about creating a ghost mannequin then you are in the right place. And I’m here to show you the right way how to do that work by using Adobe photoshop. In this tutorial, I will use the two images (front and inside of cloth) for illustrating the ghost mannequin.
Moreover, explain how to combine them in a single 3D hollow image by using the ghost or invisible mannequin techniques. The inner photo doesn’t match the above requirements so you can learn how to work with less than ideal images.
Get The Best Pictures To Create A Ghost Mannequin Effect in Photoshop
In Photoshop, it will be easier to create a ghost mannequin effect. While certain sellers have particular invisible models, many of us need to depend on regular models and on the techniques that I explained in this tutorial. For making an invisible mannequin a photographer needs to follow these tips which I have given below:
- When you are using a model ideally a mannequin, you need to ensure that the dummy’s arms are hanging down and the legs are uncrossed.
- Therefore, clip back long hair or jewelry to cover the actual dress.
- When shooting interior clothing, keep your camera and light in the same spot.
- Place your clothes on a whiteboard or foam core piece and stand on the board at the same height and position as a model to ensure better lighting.
- Choose neutral with simple backdrops. The best thing is a black, white, or light gray backdrop which is not reflective.
- Our research of the world’s top online fashion brands found that over 94% are plain and friendly.
- Until shooting, iron, or steam garments and ensure that clothes fit correctly on the model free of folds or gaps.
- On the other hand, don’t put your camera above the product, looking down.
- When you shoot the clothes from the wrong angle it will distort the product. And several post-processing tasks are required.
In an ideal scenario, You would have ultimate control over the shooting of your cloth photography. Nevertheless, you can still produce an invisible mannequin impact in Photoshop. This is a common technique of Photoshop editing services for cloth image background removal. The following tutorial demonstrates an intangible model technique that works both in great photos and not-so-good ones. You can also put your picture on a color background using this unique Ghost Model application.
Step By Step Tutorial to Create Ghost Mannequin
I’m going to use the pictures below for our front and interior garment for this Ghost Model tutorial. And demonstrate to you, How to use the Ghost Model Method to combine it? Remember that the interior picture does not adhere to the above criteria, so you will learn how to work with photos that are not so good.
Step 01: Open Image File in Photoshop (1st image)
Firstly, crop the image so that you should have a minimum background that can be visible from the back of the product. Using the Crop tool is the easiest option to do this. Select the Crop tool from the toolbar placed on the left side of the Photoshop window screen. Create a layer by pressing Ctrl + J.
Step 02: Start Selecting Edges using the Photoshop pen tool
Now you need to start cutting off the mannequin as well as the background from the product. It would help if you chose Pen Tool |(clipping path) from the toolbar to complete this step.
Step 03: Starts From the Collar line
Start from the upper part of the collar from where the mannequin neck begins and continues downwards till the mannequin’s neckline. Do this slowly and efficiently in order to get your way along the collar line.
Step 04: Selecting the rest of the cloth carefully
After completing step 04, continue the same procedure for the mannequin legs and complete generating a path to the next portion connecting it when you see the “O” sign.
Step 05: Inverse Selection
To create a palette path, press, and hold Ctrl. Choose paths inverse selection and delete the background.
Step 06: Open the inner side Photo (2nd Photo, Neck part)
The next step is to open the inner side of the product to crop the collar area.
Step 07: Combining both images
Now, moving the inner portion of the cropped part in front of the first image of the product, press Ctrl + A + C+ V together.
Step 08: Positioning Layer
At this step, send the new layer under the first layer of the product’s front side. Here it would help if you decided on how much product you require after you are confident the replacement was adequate. Choose the pen tool, cut through the portion you implanted from the top of the collar, and throw out additional clothing.
Step 9: Fine-tune
Now, you are almost done. Fine-tune is required in this process. To soften the uncut areas, choose the eraser tool. Also, you can add a shadow to give a realistic look. You can do a lot of things using Photoshop, such as ghost mannequin effect, photo manipulation, etc.
Step 10: Finishing Up With Creating Ghost Mannequin Effects
You can use the brush size 25 to append darker shades on the downside collar so that it looks more natural. Photoshop tools allow you to do anything on your photograph to get your expectations in the best way possible.
Areas of Specialization in Mannequin Cloth Image Editing
We have our dedicated clothes photo editors. They are specialized for only ghost mannequin product image cut-out and editing methods.
- We skillfully edit garment clothing that shots taken transparently or see mannequins in order to show the items their best possible capability.
- Sometimes this can be difficult. Because of the reflective glare that opposes the clarity of the material and thus disturbing the entire image quality.
- We are qualified for photo editing clothes on wire mannequins that require a considerable time and effort to edit each picture.
- We can edit pictures perfectly that taken on a model or dummy. Besides, We are able to merge two photos, first showing the product from the front.
- After that, secondly turning in to reveal the brand label, giving a realistic picture of the apparel to your prospective buyers.
- We can also edit and customize your top-quality dresses captured by 3D floating.
- Moreover, displaying each dress beautifully with clear-cut details.
Conclusion on Creating a Ghost Mannequin Effect in Photoshop
In this tutorial, you learned how to create a ghost mannequin effect by using Adobe Photoshop. Furthermore, how can you work with the best photos? First, you can take an easy picture and practice on it. When you use to doing it properly then you can do it in a complex image. That will help you the most. Also, Our dedicated designers can edit ghost mannequin pictures in a perfect way. Because they are working for only this part of photo editing. However, I believe you can get a better result by reading this tutorial. And make your work amazing. So, please if you have any questions about this tutorial then let me know in the comment section below.
Considering this, how do you make a mannequin head at home?
- Blow up a balloon so that it is approximately the size, or a little smaller than you want your mannequin head to be.
- Add your base.
- Make your paper mache paste.
- Tear newspapers into 2 by 6 inch (5 by 15 cm) strips.
- Work outside or on a drop cloth, and begin making your mannequin head.
One may also ask, how do you make a cardboard head? Making a Stunt Dummy Head Out of Cardboard, Duct Tape, and Newspaper (Part One)
- Step 1: Get the Design. First, make a design for the shape.
- Step 2: Making It “3D” Next is to actually make it 3D.
- Step 3: Adding the Next Layer.
- Step 4: Filling It With Paper.
- Step 5: Do the Rest.
- Step 6: The Face.
- Step 7: Admire Your Work!
Besides, how do you decorate a mannequin head?
Dip your paintbrush into the Mod Podge and spread it on the mannequin head where you’re going to put your pieces. Lay the pieces on and use your fingers to smooth out any curves or creases. Go over the piece with more Mod Podge. Continue doing this to cover the whole head.
How do you make a giant paper mache head?
Here’s all you need to create your own papier mâché head. Step 1: Inflate the gym ball and cover with cling film. Step 2: Starting at the bung, draw a line around the centre of the ball. Step 3: Mix the glue and water together to make a paste, and use it to apply newspaper strips over the cling film.
If you are willing to translate this article into another language, please send me an . Thanks!
Software Required: Photoshop 7.0.1/CS/CS2 & Second Life
1. Download and install the Photoshop Action
- Download the Photoshop action
- Load Photoshop and make the Actions palette visible. If it’s not, look under the Window menu and you’ll find it there. The keyboard shortcut is Alt F9 (Windows) or Option F9 (Mac).
- Select Load Actions from the palette menu (Fig. 1) and choose the SecondLife.atn file you just downloaded.
2. Take a screenshot in Second Life
- My suggestion is to construct a white box you can use as a background to take your screenshots. If you’re modeling white clothing, you may want to use another color like a bright green or blue.
- Another suggestion, and this only works if transparent attachments are not a part of your outfit, is to turn off alpha rendering. This gets rid of the very small, annoying shadows that appear around your ankles. First activate the Client/Server menus by hitting Ctrl Alt Shift D (Windows) or Command Option Shift D (Mac). Then hit Control Alt Shift 2 (Windows) or Command Option Shift 2 (Mac) to turn off alpha rendering.
- Now, line up your camera so that you’re facing your avatar straight on. You may find that this is more difficult than it sounds, especially if you want your eyes or head facing a certain direction. The advent of Gestures to create model poses was a great boon for making mannequins — use them if you can and have fun. Take lots of screenshots so you have many to choose from. I personally use an alternate account I specifically created for taking photos, but I know not all of you are blessed with two computers sitting right next to each other. But you can always have a friend take shots for you or maybe even hire an in-world photographer.
- Even if you don’t have any custom gestures, you can get some fun shots by combining the standard animations. Try doing the flip animation and take a shot near the end during the “big smile.” Dance around and stick out your tongue. Experiment!
3. Create the Mannequin in Photoshop
- Open your screenshot in Photoshop. Double click on the Background layer and click OK (Fig. 2) to make it float. This will help create our mask later on. The background layer should now be called “Layer 0”
- Now we need to get rid of the white (or whatever color you chose) background. There are a couple of ways to do this, but because we only want to select the background and not any white that might be found on the avatar (for instance, the jewelry) we’re going to use the Magic Wand tool.
- Use the Magic Wand tool to click on the white background. It gives me a nice selection (see the marquee in Fig. 3) but notice that it doesn’t include the space in between the avatar’s arms. To add this space to your selection hold down the SHIFT key and you’ll notice that the Magic Wand gets a little “+” next to it. Use the Magic Wand and click in any areas of white that still remain unselected until you have the entire background selected. Now hit the DELETE key. Your image should look like Fig. 4.
- Don’t deselect! If you did out of habit, just Undo so you have your background selection marquee intact.
- Select the Mask from Selection action from your action palette and click the run button (the VCR-style run button at the bottom of the palette – see Fig. 5). After a couple seconds you should end up with your avatar on a black background. If you click to the Channels tab, you’ll also notice that an Alpha Channel was created automatically for you.
- Feel free to crop or reduce the size of the image if you like. Remember that Second Life loves textures that are 256×256 or 512×512 or a combination of those heights and widths (512 x 256 etc).
4. Save Your File
- You’ve been saving your file while you work, right? Well, now you should choose Save As from the File menu and choose TGA file type. Make sure the Alpha Channels button is selected. (Fig. 6).
- Also make sure you save the TGA file as 32 bit to keep our alpha channel (transparency) intact.(Fig. 7).
5. Upload to Second Life
- In case you forgot, turn Alpha Rendering back on by hitting Control Alt Shift 2 (Windows) or Command Option Shift 2 (Mac).
- Upload your new TGA file into Second Life. Once it finishes, open your inventory and find the image in your textures folder
- I usually create a (virtual) life-size box (prim) and place it next to my avatar for height. I then flatten it so it’s (virtual) paper-thin. (Fig. 8)
- Then I apply a transparent texture to the entire box, making it invisible (Fig.9). Why did I do this? Well, if you don’t, you’ll have a small border around the box where the default texture shows up on the (very small) sides.
- Last, using the Select Texture Tool in Second Life, I select the flat sides of the box and drop my texture onto them. (Fig. 10)
- Voila! You’re ready to make some more!
Comments, questions, etc send an IM to Nicola Escher in-world. Have fun!
© 2005-2010 Scott McMillin
Second Life® and Linden Lab™ are trademarks or registered trademarks
of Linden Research, Inc. No infringement is intended.
The fit was good but not ‘corseted’ enough. So last week I actually got together with my CAD designer Simon in the real world rather than trying to email directions and we edited the mannequin further. It’s much easier to say ‘push it in a bit more there’ than draw diagrams!
I also got my first CAD lesson so I could start to draft on the mannequin myself. Simon showed me what to do very slowly while I wrote furiously in a note pad, then I had a go, and another, and eventually got my head round it. This week I’ve been practising and managed a pattern of sorts (some wiggly lines!). Here’s how we got on in more detail…
There were several edits we needed to make to our digital friend, namely taking in the waist. Once we got down to the measurements it turned out the waist didn’t need taking in quite as much as I’d first thought.
The rib area needed to come in too as we hadn’t really compressed this area as a corset would. Here you can see an image of the mannequin with it’s first pattern and compare its silhouette to the new version which has my own pattern drafting on. She now has the correct corset training proportions.
We then came up against the issue of the bust and how best to shape it for overbust corsets. The mannequin has quite prominent nipples which were leftover from one of the other programs she was part made in, they needed removing as well as a general pushing together, compressing and lifting of the bust to create the desired support and shape. This area is going to take a lot more work to get just right but she’s in safe hands!
Editing the mannequin to include a corseted bust
Learning To Pattern Draft Digitally
Splitting the surface using the seam lines I’ve drawn (or curves as they’re called)
Simon then gave me a crash course in Rhino, a CAD program I need to get my head round in order to make the magic happen. I was taught to make a curved surface, draw lines from a 2D view point, project them onto the surface, then use them to cut bits out and flatten them into pattern pieces. Then I was let loose on the mannequin itself. The whole process is amazingly complex and at the moment probably takes me about as long as drafting on a real mannequin, but hopefully as I progress it will get easier and much quicker.
My digital drafting skills also need work, I’ve been practising this week and managed this pattern finally but it’s not exactly perfect –
Design complete, now to flatten it!
Fruits of this weeks labour – A corset pattern finally!
I had some fun and went a bit skeletal, I couldn’t resist seeing how creative the software would let me be. So that at the back is meant to be a spine with a tail bone at the bottom. As you can see from the printout below (yes it printed correctly and everything, woop!) it all went a bit wiggly on pattern piece 5. If you check out the images above you can just about see the wiggly piece 5 on the mannequin back view, my eye for drafting digitally will improve as I get used to spotting issues on the screen. There’s also an issue with the back and front edges not being straight. The front is easily fixed with a ruler but the back will need to be cut and pivoted at the waistline. For now I can work round the issues, I’m not sure if I’ll correct the little wiggles or leave them to see how they come out but I’ll be making this up into a mockup. Stay tuned! 🙂
Etsy предоставляет возможность прямой связи покупателей и продавцов со всего мира. Когда вы используете сервисы Etsy (мы будем называть etsy.com, Pattern by Etsy, наши мобильные приложения и другие сервисы нашими «Сервисами»), вы несете ответственность за соблюдение этой политики, независимо от вашего местоположения.
Эта политика является частью наших Условий использования. Используя любые наши Сервисы, вы соглашаетесь с этой политикой и нашими Условиями использования.
Как транснациональная компания из США, ведущая деятельность в других странах, Etsy должна соблюдать экономические санкции и торговые ограничения, включая введенные Управлением по контролю за иностранными активами (OFAC) Министерства финансов США. Это означает, что Etsy или кто-либо, пользующийся нашими Сервисами, не может участвовать в транзакциях, в которые вовлечены определенные люди, места или изделия из этих мест, указанные государственными органами, такими как OFAC, в дополнение к торговым санкциям, предусмотренным соответствующими законами и нормами.
Эта политика действует в отношении всех, кто использует наши Сервисы, независимо от их местоположения. Решение об ознакомлении с такими ограничениями остается за вами.
Например, эти ограничения в целом запрещают, кроме прочего, транзакции, в которых участвуют следующие стороны:
- определенные географические регионы, такие как Иран, Крым, Куба, Северная Корея, Сирия, Россия, Беларусь, Донецкая Народная Республика («ДНР»), Луганская Народная Республика («ЛНР»), а также любые физические или юридические лица, ведущие деятельность или находящиеся на этих территориях;
- физические или юридические лица, состоящие в санкционных списках, таких как Список лиц особых категорий и запрещенных лиц (SDN) или Список иностранных лиц, уклоняющихся от санкций (FSE) организации OFAC;
- граждане Кубы независимо от их местоположения, не имеющие гражданства или вида на жительство за пределами Кубы; и
- изделия, из Ирана, Крыма, Кубы и Северной Кореи, за исключением информационных материалов, таких как публикации, фильмы, постеры, грампластинки, фотографии, кассеты, компакт-диски и определенные произведения искусства.
- Любые товары, услуги и технологические решения из ЛНР и ДНР за исключением информационных материалов и сельскохозяйственной продукции, в том числе продуктов питания для людей, семян сельскохозяйственных культур или удобрений.
- Импорт в США следующей продукции российского происхождения: рыба, морепродукты, алмазы непромышленного назначения и любая другая продукция, согласно периодическим указаниям министра торговли США.
- Экспорт из США либо гражданами США предметов роскоши и любых других товаров, согласно указаниям министра торговли США, любому лицу, находящемуся в России или Беларуси. Список и определение «предметов роскоши» приведены в «Дополнение № 5 к Разделу 746», опубликованном Федеральным реестром США.
- Изделия, изготовленные за пределами США и попадающие под действие Закона о тарифах США и связанных с ним законов о запрещении принудительного труда.
Для защиты нашего сообщества и торговой площадки Etsy предпринимает меры для соблюдения режимов санкций. Например, Etsy запрещает участникам пользоваться своими аккаунтами в определенных географических регионах. Если у нас есть основания полагать, что вы управляете своей аккаунтом из места, находящегося под санкциями, например, любого из перечисленных выше санкционных мест, или иным образом нарушаете какие-либо экономические санкции или торговые ограничения, мы можем приостановить или прекратить использование вами наших Сервисов. Как правило, участникам не разрешается выставлять на продажу, покупать или продавать изделия из регионов, находящихся под санкциями. Сюда входят изделия, появившиеся ранее санкций, поскольку у нас нет возможности проверить, были ли они вывезены из запрещенного места. Etsy оставляет за собой право обращаться к продавцам с запросом предоставить дополнительную информацию, раскрыть страну происхождения изделия на странице товара или предпринять другие шаги для соблюдения обязательств. Мы можем отключить товары или отменить транзакции, представляющие опасность нарушения этой политики.
Кроме соблюдения требований OFAC и применимых местных законов, участникам Etsy следует иметь в виду, что другие страны могут вводить собственные торговые ограничения и что определенные изделия могут не допускаться к экспорту или импорту согласно международным законам. Когда в транзакции участвуют лица из разных стран, вам следует изучить законы любых соответствующих стран.
Наконец, участникам Etsy следует иметь в виду, что сторонние платежные системы, например PayPal, могут самостоятельно отслеживать транзакции на предмет соблюдения санкционных требований и могут блокировать транзакции в рамках собственных программ, обеспечивающих соблюдение требований. Etsy не имеет власти или контроля над процедурами независимого принятия решения в таких системах.
Экономические санкции и торговые ограничения могут применяться к порядку использования вами Сервисов и могут изменяться, поэтому участникам следует регулярно проверять источники информации о санкциях. За юридической консультацией обращайтесь к квалифицированному специалисту.
Вы можете прочитать эту политику на вашем языке, но помните, что версия этого документа на английском имеет преимущественную силу в отношении использования вами сервисов Etsy. Язык можно изменить в настройках аккаунта.
If you ever dressed a mannequin, you know how challenging it could be. We all regard it as a piece of cake at the very beginning; however, it is not the case when we dress. The jeans don’t “slide up” the legs as we thought. Conversely, they are actually stuck at the calves. As for a long-sleeved shirt, well, it just wrinkles on the shoulders of the mannequins, because you don’t know how to put the arms in the sleeves. This is quite common if no one teaches us how to dress a mannequin. AS a matter of fact, there are some tips on the dressing technique which can save you a lot of time and effort.
Your first task is to make sure the quality of the mannequins you buy. It is commonplace for most store owners to change the dressing of the mannequins over and over again after a period of time. In this case, the mannequins could be broken if they are in poor quality. Then, how can we choose high-quality mannequins? Among all the material, like FRP mannequins, PC mannequins, ABS mannequins, PP mannequins, PE mannequins, PP mannequins, PE mannequins, PC mannequins are the best choice, exclusively produced by Posh Concept. PC mannequin can bring you four major benefits as follows. First, it is light in weight, which makes it convenient for you to place it from one place to another. Secondly, it has a longer service life because it is not easy to be scratched and broken. Moreover, the non-toxic material does no harm to the environment as it can be recycled. Last but not least, it can achieve a transparent or semi-transparent style with vibrant color.
Now, let’s take a look at some steps on how to dress the mannequin in different clothes. Following these steps is not only quick and efficient for us, but also reduces damage to the dummy.
- Remove the mannequin from the human base
- Put the mannequin on the ground or use the assisting tools to lift it up
- Take off the detachable leg
- Slide the pants up on the detached leg
- Start to slide the pant onto the still-attached leg while the detached leg in the pant
- Once the trousers are mostly on two legs, reconnect the separate mannequin legs
- Keep pulling up pants and buttons
- Put the mannequin back to the base
- Remove arms from the mannequin and set them aside
- Put the T-shirt over the head and shoulders of the mannequin
- Roll up the T-shirt sleeves and reconnect the mannequin arm through the T-shirt armhole
- Take the arms from the mannequin and set them aside
- Slide the long-sleeved shirt over the head and shoulders of the mannequin
- Pass the arm of the mannequin through the collar of the shirt
- Reconnect the arms
- Take your arms from the mannequin and set them aside
- Put the first layer onto the mannequin and pull over the shoulders and torso
- Add a second layer on the first layer in the same way as adding the first layer
- If there is a long-sleeved shirt of the layer, pull the arm of the first layer over the arm of the second layer
- Reconnect the model arms and pass them through the collar of the bottom shirt – first the hand – then slide the arm down onto the sleeve of the shirt
- Take your arms out of the mannequin and set aside
- Slide the dress over the head of the mannequin and pull it over the shoulder, torso and hips
- Reconnect the arm of the mannequin
Extra modeling skills
- Match accessories! Hats, scarf, necklaces, bracelets, scarves and belts all help to look more beautiful. Dress the mannequin like a real person.
- Use a binder clip to fit your clothes! Pins can also help with more subtle adjustments, just make sure they don’t damage the clothes.
- Remember to iron or steam all clothing before placing them on the mannequin. Put the labels in an inconspicuous location. Or the labels will affect the look on the mannequin.
- The style of the clothes on all the mannequins should be in harmony.
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Sarah Parks, featured in Drawing Secrets Revealed, is here to share tips on how to use an artist mannequin and an understanding of light for successful and simple figure drawing. She tells us that “understanding the elements of lighting is absolutely key to successfully using any of them to realistically render the volume of the human figure.”
In the Drawing Secrets Revealed kit, you’ll find plenty of techniques to practice and master. Scroll down to read some of Parks’s helpful advice.
The mannequin’s forward foot is foreshortened.
Learn how to Draw the Figure with an Artist Mannequin by Sarah Parks
Many people think they can’t draw figures because it seems so overwhelming, but by studying an artist mannequin, they can start small and gain more confidence.
Artist mannequins may seem simplistic to work from, but I urge my students to practice drawing them because they provide good learning opportunities to begin to understand the human figure. They have similar body formation and joints as humans and it helps students better grasp how mobile and dynamic the trunk (chest and hip area) is and how the head, arms, and legs respond as the trunk turns and bends.
Artist mannequins also help artists become familiar with foreshortened views–when the hand or foot is extending into the viewer’s eye line–of the arms, legs, and head, which can be tricky. The mannequin can also help you understand movement and how light falls on the planes of the body, which also gives you a good foundation for rendering the contours.
I teach more on drawing the human figure in my “Drawing Secrets Revealed” online art lessons available from North Light Shop. You’ll receive much more detail in the series, but this is a good start.
Shading the Figure
After drafting the mannequin in the various poses to get you familiar with the proportions of the body, you’ll want to venture into shading.
A foundational concept of shading is understanding the elements of lighting. This principle will help you render light and shadow effectively and is absolutely essential in order to give your drawings a realistic three-dimensionality.
Before you begin to shade, the first step is to determine where the light source is coming from, because light informs all objects. Here you can see how the following main elements of lighting play out. In the diagram below of a sphere (ball), a single strong light source is coming from the upper right so the shadows will be on the left.
Since so many features of the human body are round or cylindrical (arms, legs, fingers, chest, neck, head, etc.), the elements of lighting reveal themselves here, too. In the diagram of the mannequin torso, there is also a single strong light source coming from the upper right, so the elements of lighting will be similar to the sphere. The elements of lighting are always more defined with a single, strong light source.
DRAWING SECRETS REVEALED This popular collection sold out during its release month, so North Light Shop is bringing it back! Go from amateur to amazing in figure and portrait drawings with Sarah Parks.
Do you want to know the easy diy mannequin head-making steps? To make a special and unique mannequin head for yourself is not a difficult task, but some people may find it hard to start. Therefore, we will introduce the tips on making a mannequin head including the preparation of necessary materials and specific steps.
Mannequin heads can be used for displaying wigs, sunglasses, hats, and so on. Many online stores sell mannequin products, but if you want to practice your hands-on abilities.
Mannequin head DIY can not merely save your money but practice your manipulative abilities. Besides, you can also make a mannequin head with your kids. I believe this process will inspire their imagination and close the relations between family members.
Then, what tools and materials you need to make a simple mannequin head? A balloon, a tin, tapes, flour, newspaper, a spoon, sprays, and brushes are the basic items. These items are easy to get and cheap at price. The followings are detailed instructions.
Blow up a balloon to a proper size. Do not blow the balloon too big or too small. Too much air will lead to balloon explosion easily. If the balloon is too small, it may look weird and fails to display anything. The color of the balloon does not matter a lot because you will cover it with other materials in the later steps.
Swathe the balloon with tapes. You can do this first. You can also make a stand first. Find an empty tin and pour some sands into it so that it will be heavy enough to be put on the table firmly. Use the tape to bind the balloon head and the tin serving as the neck together. Once the step is finished, a basic shape of the mannequin head will come into being.
Mix water and flour. The proportion of them is about 50% to 50%. But it depends on what sort of flour you buy. Some flours have stronger stickiness, so you can ask the seller for advice. Stir the mixture until the water and flour completely blend.
Tear the newspaper you prepare into strips. Tear some into small square pieces and some into a larger square. The larger one can be used for the first layer and the small one for the detailed facial features.
Now you can move outside or find a proper place because, during this process, the flour will be dropped on the floor. Dip the newspaper strips into the mixture you have made and cover them on the balloon head surface. One strip for one time. Smooth the strip, otherwise, it will leave wrinkles on your mannequin heads after it is dried.
After covering the whole model head and neck with newspaper strips, you can leave it in a ventilating place so that it will be dried faster.
Begin making the second layer. At the moment, you will find that the first layer is hard. Adding the second layer can better prepare for the making of facial features. Repeat the same step you have done in step 5, and leave the model head to be air-dried.
After covering four or five layers, the easy diy mannequin head is solid enough, You can make the facial features. Use the newspaper to form the shape of ears, nose, lips, and so on. Attach them with tapes and use a spoon to smooth the tape edges. Then, apply some newspaper strips that are immersed in the mixture onto these facial features. Or you can cover a large newspaper onto the whole face directly.
Spray the DIY head with the proper color. Use a brush to depict the details such as eyeballs, pupils, eyebrows, and so on. Besides, you can also paint the patterns you like on the face as decorations.
All these eight steps finished, you will have a wonderful mannequin head. It is not that difficult, right? Do pay attention to the details you paint and do not rush to cover another layer when the first one is still wet. Making an easy diy mannequin head also requires patience. We hope this article can help you.